Exhaust wrapping?
- Thread starter PotvinGuy
- Start date
Francis Blake
Active Member
I don't have personal experience with wrapping but I have been told that it can cause rust.
Mike
Well-Known Member
Wrap is great stuff for a full-bodied drag car, when you are trying to control under-hood temperatures. But it will cause pretty severe erosion of the inside of the tubes, by holding in the heat of a street car. I've seen guys wrap street headers and burn them though within a year's time. Wrap is even hard on stainless headers.
Send your headers to Ben, have him coat them and drive on.
Send your headers to Ben, have him coat them and drive on.
Well, it sounds like a bad idea. I like to try new things. I've had chrome pipes and ceramic pipes. Once I did one side in black and the other in silver, just to see if anyone noticed. If someone did I'd ask them which they liked best, and whichever they picked I'd say "wow, you're the only person to say that."
Maybe fluorescent green this year...
Maybe fluorescent green this year...
Screaming Metal
Active Member
Well, I had wraps on the 392 Hemi didn't hardly drive it till I sold it, this one, I have wraps on, but it has Lake Pipes. I did it for safety, and to also absorb some of the sound. I've done wraps my whole career....was doing it before doing it was cool.
Mike is right, the contained heat has a tendency to eat up the metal. Also, with the barrier, it traps condensation, but since I fabbed mine, I used really thick tubing.
You can get it in diff. colors now, I'm partial to black. Its saved me from many skin grafts! hahaha....but yea, if you like things all nice and shiney, its not for you.
I heated the lake pipes up to about 500 degrees, spraying a heat resistant coating on them. A really high temp paint. Of course I have a large industral oven for heating up thing to assemble them. After applying this advanced coating, I then wrapped them. Regular headers are a pain to wrap, The T headers aren't bad. Fenderwell headers, which was what the 392 had, had been heated, the collector bent up some and toward the motor. The thing looked like a big Alien bug ready to attack, headers sticking out like wings ready to fly at any second.
There was enough room to wrap the individual pipes. Now, the lake pipes, they are easy. I use SS ties at the beginning and at the end
Mike is right, the contained heat has a tendency to eat up the metal. Also, with the barrier, it traps condensation, but since I fabbed mine, I used really thick tubing.
You can get it in diff. colors now, I'm partial to black. Its saved me from many skin grafts! hahaha....but yea, if you like things all nice and shiney, its not for you.
I heated the lake pipes up to about 500 degrees, spraying a heat resistant coating on them. A really high temp paint. Of course I have a large industral oven for heating up thing to assemble them. After applying this advanced coating, I then wrapped them. Regular headers are a pain to wrap, The T headers aren't bad. Fenderwell headers, which was what the 392 had, had been heated, the collector bent up some and toward the motor. The thing looked like a big Alien bug ready to attack, headers sticking out like wings ready to fly at any second.
There was enough room to wrap the individual pipes. Now, the lake pipes, they are easy. I use SS ties at the beginning and at the end
Screaming Metal
Active Member
I've had alot of folks say mine looks great, but I put for alot of effort in making it look good. You can get the wrap in diff. widths along with diff. colors, white, gray, black, etc.
I had a big roll of tubular wrap for like 2" pipe. The stuff is in the form of tubing where you can just slide it over. Well, since I had this left over from a big job years ago, I just trimmed the ends neatly, mashed it down flat and wrapped the lake pipes really tight. I put a SS wrap tie 1/8 to 1/4" from the ends.
I like it myself, but thats just me....
I had a big roll of tubular wrap for like 2" pipe. The stuff is in the form of tubing where you can just slide it over. Well, since I had this left over from a big job years ago, I just trimmed the ends neatly, mashed it down flat and wrapped the lake pipes really tight. I put a SS wrap tie 1/8 to 1/4" from the ends.
I like it myself, but thats just me....
Hmmm...so they are quieter? That would be nice, my individual pipes are a real racket, sounds like 4 choppers going down the road. Homebrew baffles in the pipes, but doesn't help much. Anyone have good baffle design? Remember Super Trapps? Wonder if I could do a small version of those.
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
I had my pipes coated at the powder coaters. It isn't powder coating, but on the same line. They have multiple colors. Been on there 2 years, and hasn't changed colors at all. It is on the car on my avatar. I had to make the headers, and used motorcycle baffles with fiberglass wrapped around them for better sound reduction.
Lee
Lee
Screaming Metal
Active Member
Damn, between you and ExJunk....the drool factor is at a all time high! hahaha....beautiful rods!Hmmm...so they are quieter? That would be nice, my individual pipes are a real racket, sounds like 4 choppers going down the road. Homebrew baffles in the pipes, but doesn't help much. Anyone have good baffle design? Remember Super Trapps? Wonder if I could do a small version of those.
Yes, the wrapping quietens them slightly, or thats what I've been told.
Now, the SuperTrapp mufflers, I tried them on the BigBlueOval....it choked the motor down pretty good....but mine breathes really deep....
I believe you could do the bike baffle bit on yours though.
On my Lake Pipes, I have a auger in them, with the butt end of a big old glass pack track muffler attached. Sounds pretty good, or so I've been told by about 10 folks.
A OTR truck backed a trailer into the front of mine a few days back....so....I'm having to do some repairs. Took out my front axle, spring, drag link, rad. shell and radiator, front frame crosstube.
I have all the carnage removed and spent this weekend welding in a new member and untweaking the frame. I'm gonna setup for 1/4 Ellipticals, I've been picking HotRod46 and ExJunks Brains....I'm almost there. I'm gonna be using S10 leaf springs. I have about 6 or 8 sets back in my storeroom.
Yea, Potvin, with the 4 individual pipes on each side....the bike baffles should do. Maybe a mod or 2.
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Screaming Metal
Active Member
Or Check this out....
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=168222
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=168222
rbsWELDER
Active Member
Who made those pipes?Hmmm...so they are quieter? That would be nice, my individual pipes are a real racket, sounds like 4 choppers going down the road. Homebrew baffles in the pipes, but doesn't help much. Anyone have good baffle design? Remember Super Trapps? Wonder if I could do a small version of those.
Sanderson in CA. We sent them a sketch, they gave a price, I gagged and said OK. 1-3/4" pipe instead of the usual 1-5/8". Sanderson sent auger baffles, but I couldn't hear any difference, so made my own:
Wrap them with muffler packing and slide them in. They help some. Here's an interesting unit from H-D:
These are meant to be added to existing H-D exhausts, and are said to really reduce noise. I've been poking around for a better design that will fit in my pipes. I have about 28" of straight pipe to work with, so I could make a much longer version of my present 12" baffles. Also looking at this concept: http://www.mit.edu/~lisab/Lisa_J._Burton/Acoustics.html which may explain how the H-D unit works.
Wrap them with muffler packing and slide them in. They help some. Here's an interesting unit from H-D:
These are meant to be added to existing H-D exhausts, and are said to really reduce noise. I've been poking around for a better design that will fit in my pipes. I have about 28" of straight pipe to work with, so I could make a much longer version of my present 12" baffles. Also looking at this concept: http://www.mit.edu/~lisab/Lisa_J._Burton/Acoustics.html which may explain how the H-D unit works.
TriodeLuvr
Member
That's very interesting. I've always thought standard glasspack construction was the opposite of what's needed for good tone. Low frequencies (which I consider more desirable) pass through the small holes into the dampening material, while higher frequencies pass through the center tube with little obstruction. I have an idea for a design that will muffle the highs while leaving the lows relatively untouched, but it's difficult to build a prototype without a full size mill. One of these days I'll get around to it...
Jack
