Front steer problems.

[666]

Hi, My old bucket is starting to be rebuilt and problems fixed along the way. The first one is the front axle has 39 stubs with front steer, I need to get the arms a lot closer to the wheel as at the moment it has the ackerman angle going the wrong way. I would like to make subtle changes to keep it near how it was built but safer and easier to drive.

 

[EX JUNK]

You'll have to fabricate new arms as I had to do. Check out the photo to get a better idea.



In doing so, I have perfect Ackerman. Some say that it not important to have correct Ackerman but I disagree.

Jim

 

[666]

Thanks for the photo, thats what I need to do. I will check mine in the morning. My wheel sits closer to the kingpin than yours.

 

[T-Test]

Thanks for the photo, thats what I need to do. I will check mine in the morning. My wheel sits closer to the kingpin than yours.

Get different wheels or use spacers.

 

[ellis8500]

Setting correct Ackerman is so easy ya just might as well do it. That way you will know that any front alignment issues you find when you drive have nothing to do with that. The equation below will get you very close to perfect. Leave enough adjustment on the tie rod to set your toe in/out as needed.

T = (D-a) / D x A

 

[666]

Had a good look to-day, I need to move the arms out 50mm to be spot on but can only get 40mm due to the rotors. It is tight between the back of the stub and axle. If I could heat and move the arm that would fix it.

 

[T-Test]

Had a good look to-day, I need to move the arms out 50mm to be spot on but can only get 40mm due to the rotors. It is tight between the back of the stub and axle. If I could heat and move the arm that would fix it.

That can be done also. If they are made onto the spindles[factory casting/one piece] have them magnufluxed for safety. If flat bar stock, just make sure to take the temper out of the metal so they won't bend/break easy.

 

[choppedtop]

If they are heated to bend, bury them in a bucket of sand while still hot, so they can cool slowly.

 

[fluidfloyd]

666...If those are factory OEM arms and they are of an older vintage they should be forgings and can safely be bent with a slow heating. You should be able to see a flash/rib along both sides of the arm that usually will continue around the main spindle body. This is where the two forging dies came together and extruded that small amount of material. If they are castings and I doubt they are then there should not be any parting ribs on the arm, Forgings are typically made from 1040-45 ,1055 or 1541 material making them strong and tough. on the outside as in bearing journals. I could be wrong but I was thinking the I beam front ale of Chassis Engineering is a 1045 forging but I don't have that drawing or spec sheet with me. I will ask the original manufacturer about that this week as I have been phone visiting with him lately. Axles and spindles were usually the same material. Either way just take your time and go slow. As suggested by choppedtop, cover it in sand and walk away for a day. If by chance they are castings you will be on your own as I have no clue what material they are. Not much help on this but maybe you can get lucky and just bend it to the desired location and go drink a beer with a grin on your face. Good Luck!

George

 

[666]

Just took all this info to the guy certifying the car and is allowing the heat and bend method. As far as I know there original 39 stubs.