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Gauge lights

409T

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I am going to wire my new T with a toggle switch for the headlights rather than the normal light switch which would have a rheostat for the gauge lights. Obviously the gauge lights will have to be on the toggle switch as well. Other than having no capability of dimming the gauge lights, does anyone see a problem with wiring this way?

Jeff
 
I am going to wire my new T with a toggle switch for the headlights rather than the normal light switch which would have a rheostat for the gauge lights. Obviously the gauge lights will have to be on the toggle switch as well. Other than having no capability of dimming the gauge lights, does anyone see a problem with wiring this way?

Jeff


It will work fine wired that way. I have had mine that way for a couple of years.
 
Both trikes I built did not have a rheostat. I used a push/pull toggle switch for one trike and the other had a up/down flip switch. The touring car I'm building will have the same generic push/pull toggle switch that can be had at any auto parts store. I like my gauge lights to be as bright as they get and didn't have any problem with them being wired without a rheostat.
 
I expect (and hope) that others with more smarts than me will chime in... ;)

I'm certainly no guru with this stuff but I would suggest using a double-pole, single-throw switch (DPST) to have the headlights on one side of the switch and the running/dash lights on the other side.
That way if you cook one side (probably headlights) because of circuit overload then the other side (running/dash) may still work. Safety, ya know.

The thing I know a lot of folks do wrong is to use too light-duty of a switch to carry the load of the headlights. If you can't get a heavier switch consider using a relay for them.
If you don't know what I mean I may be able to find a diagram but I'll wait to see what the others think. ;)

Am I far off the mark, guys?
If so.. back in my hidey-hole I go.

Joe
 
GizmoJoe is right. If your are using stock (legal) headlights, each draw 55 watts on high beam. Some guys like the extra brightness and wire the headlights so that when you are using high beam, your low beam element is still on. For 2 headlights that could be has high as 220 watts divided by 12 volts = 18.33 amps without considering the load of the tail lights. Most automotive switches have a 15 amp rating. The guys that run illegal driving lights know that a relay rated at the amperage they need must be used and all the dash switch does is activate that relay.
 
GizmoJoe is right. If your are using stock (legal) headlights, each draw 55 watts on high beam. Some guys like the extra brightness and wire the headlights so that when you are using high beam, your low beam element is still on. For 2 headlights that could be has high as 220 watts divided by 12 volts = 18.33 amps without considering the load of the tail lights. Most automotive switches have a 15 amp rating. The guys that run illegal driving lights know that a relay rated at the amperage they need must be used and all the dash switch does is activate that relay.

I found a 75 amp push pull switch at PepBoys. So far, no problems.
 
I found a 75 amp push pull switch at PepBoys. So far, no problems.

75 amp? I would say no problems! :)
I guess what I meant is that I see too many people using dinky little switches and then having some melting wire, wondering what went wrong.
A wire fire ain't pretty.
 
Using a good headlight relay that only needs to be grounded to activate works great, a separate lite toggle can now be used for the red dash lights... Red lights makes for no blinding at night, no matter how bright. They make red slip on covers for the dash bulbs:)
 
Thanks Putz that is the one i am using and it works great three functions in one switch .
 
Any idea what the amp rating of that Speedway switch is? That is a nice neat package for a switch, providing it can handle the load.
 
That looks like the switch I'm using, I got it from Ron Francis for about $15.00 cheaper.
 
That looks like the switch I'm using, I got it from Ron Francis for about $15.00 cheaper.


That's pretty cool. still no guage dimmer, but you can't always get egg in your beer. looking at the dirrection sheet it appears that it's a full load switch, so it must be rated at a fairly high amperage also.

Russ
 

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