Lee_in_KC
Active Member
I don't see how I can swap the axle... the batwings are welded on. Drag link is about 4' and is heavy-wall DOM, about 3/4" OD. Here is my front end. It is a little askew in the pic due to the shape of the driveway.
Hey chassis boys... 1.5 degree difference in king pin inclination left to right?
- Thread starter Lee_in_KC
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lincolnuT
Well-Known Member
What is your caster angled now. If it is not around 5+/- degrees back that very well could be the problem and I don't think the place to get the reading is on the steering plates put the gauge on the top of the kingpin.....Unless you have some stress on the spring hangers you should be able to change the angle with the trailing arms....I know some of this has been talked about before but just putting the thoughts out there........That is Hot Rodding and it will wind up being some thing simple I am sure....
Mike
Lee_in_KC
Active Member
Steve, are you talking to me? If so, I don't see how the front axle can fit any other way than the way it is now. If you turn it around so what is now the driver side becomes the pax side, the radius rod brackets (I call them batwings, but I know that's not exactly right) would be pointing forward and the king pin inclination will be forward. If you flip it vertically, the batwings will still be in the back, but the 4" drop becomes a 4" lift!! (and the camber would be reversed). Am I right about that? What am I missing?
Wouldn't this be impossible on a chromed tube axle where the hairpin brackets are welded on?
2old2fast
Active Member
After some searching & some thought [more of the former] I'll put this out there : Caster = I'd increase to 7* -9* keep testing!
toe in =1/16 -1/8 [radial friendly]
scrub[at least that's what I call it] , if you draw a line thru the k.p. & the center of the tire wheel , I think you'll find that yours does not come close to intersecting..from what I've read , this makes the frt end unstable [ unable to track, 'lotta geometry involved ,& I don't pretend to understand all of it]
Fix ?? Different combination of tire/wheel-hub/rotor...
Someone else feel free to jump in ??!!
dave
toe in =1/16 -1/8 [radial friendly]
scrub[at least that's what I call it] , if you draw a line thru the k.p. & the center of the tire wheel , I think you'll find that yours does not come close to intersecting..from what I've read , this makes the frt end unstable [ unable to track, 'lotta geometry involved ,& I don't pretend to understand all of it]
Fix ?? Different combination of tire/wheel-hub/rotor...
Someone else feel free to jump in ??!!
dave
EX JUNK
Moderator
Chief-T
Member
Lee, I had a shake that felt like the engine was going to jump right out of the car at 45 to 55 and changed the rear tires & rims three times and it did not change......I changed the front tires & rims on three diffrent times it was still there....This winter I changed the way the engine/trans were mounted in the car and the shake is now gone. The main thing I did was take the mounts off of the front of the engine and put them where Ford intended them to be in the middle toward the rear, so the support is on the engine not the Bellhousing. I am sure this is not part of your problem but that made my car a dream to drive now at any speed......
What is your caster angled now. If it is not around 5+/- degrees back that very well could be the problem and I don't think the place to get the reading is on the steering plates put the gauge on the top of the kingpin.....Unless you have some stress on the spring hangers you should be able to change the angle with the trailing arms....I know some of this has been talked about before but just putting the thoughts out there........That is Hot Rodding and it will wind up being some thing simple I am sure....
Mike
When adjusting the rr's , shouldn't you loosen the nuts on the spring hanger bolts so you don't induce a twist to the spring??
It is call SAI or steering angle inclination. Here is an article to a lot more info.
http://www.cdxetextbook.com/steersusp/wheelsTires/alignFund/steeringaxis.html
Lee,
I have the exact same tire manufacture/size combination as you, yet have never had any wobble or other issues with mine at all, so I'd say the width or contrast isn't the problem, unless you just got a bad casing. The only thing I might add to this is to ask if you've ever tried taking that front "track bar" off? I've yet to see one of those things help anything, but several that caused "issues" with handling.
BTW: I just noticed the front wheel offset on yours really puts those tires a long ways out on the spindles also. so, based on that, I'd agree with the other poster that you might also try a different front wheel setup with less offset, to get the rubber closer to the kingpins.
.02,
Russ
I have the exact same tire manufacture/size combination as you, yet have never had any wobble or other issues with mine at all, so I'd say the width or contrast isn't the problem, unless you just got a bad casing. The only thing I might add to this is to ask if you've ever tried taking that front "track bar" off? I've yet to see one of those things help anything, but several that caused "issues" with handling.
BTW: I just noticed the front wheel offset on yours really puts those tires a long ways out on the spindles also. so, based on that, I'd agree with the other poster that you might also try a different front wheel setup with less offset, to get the rubber closer to the kingpins.
.02,
Russ
for comparison. note the difference in offset.
Russ
Russ, I have wondered about the front panhard bar myself, seems like as the suspension moves up and down the axle will be constantly moving left or right. Seems it my do better without one but I'd have to do some road trials. BTW, I really like the front of that bucket. Axle- shocks angle and brackets looks nifty.
for comparison. note the difference in offset.
Russ
Steve
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