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Time to wire

Discussion in 'Electrics' started by JetMech727, Oct 10, 2018.

  1. JetMech727

    JetMech727
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    Thanks to a few members that have encouraged me to finish the car the thread has been moved from "For Sale" to this section. I had become unmotivated and had lost interest in the build but have now decided to finish it with their help and encouragement. Thank you!

    Indycars, here are the replies to your questions.

    " Do you have all the switches that are included in the wiring harness, such as dimmer switch, headlight switch, ignition switch? "

    Yes. Also have turn signal indicator lights as well as high beam. I have also added a 12v outlet for phone / GPS charger in dash. Dimmer switch will be installed the seat riser face. Ignition switch and headlight switch are in the dash.

    " Have you decided how you want to run the wires to the dash? Will they stay inside and under the carpet?
    - How will the wires get to the taillights? Inside the frame or outside? "

    Yes. Dash wires will run under seat to driver side of body and then up. Normally I would come out from under riser and go up diagonally fwd to dash back. Their will be a bit of dead space between body & interior side pnl. Neutral safety will run from center of riser under carpet directly to shifter. Back of the car wiring does not run through frame. It will be external. No hole provision in body for them yet. So open to any and all suggestions.

    " Is there a hole in the floor yet to get wires into the frame? If not, then where will it go? How big "

    Yes. Both sides of the frame & body have corresponding 3/4" holes under seat for wire access. Frame holes have been deburred inside and out. Inside of frame has been cleaned / blown out as much as possible. Grommets were added and are thick enough to seal opening to floor. R/H headlight, turn signal, elect fan & starter wires will go down inside R/H rail. L/H headlight, turn signal & engine harness (water temp, fan switch & distributor) will go down inside L/H rail. Alternator is a single wire and should only need a wire going to pos battery terminal of starter? Correct? Holes have already been drilled & deburred in frame for corresponding exit points for each section of wire. After paint and before reassembly I ran wiring pull wires through each hole with a corresponding grommet left dangling on wite end in the frame and up and out the exit hole into the body. Pos battery cable is already in the r/h frame rail & attached to solenoid. Other end exits the frame top in bed area just forward of the battery. Both holes deburred inside & out out and grommets installed. When I ran the wiring pull wires down the right rail I tried to make sure they went over the top of the battery cable to hopefully make pulling new harness wire easier because the battery wire fwd exit hole was drilled towards the bottom so cable lays flat on rail bottom. In a past project one of the pull wires ended up sliding under the battery cable and became a problem trying to get the new bundle to slide under it. After a few mtn dews, few choice words and being called a DA several times I did prevail.
     
    Driver50x likes this.
  2. old round fart

    old round fart
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    Sounds like you have the hard part done! I think you will be surprised how fast this will come together. Only hard is dash not coming out for wires.
     
  3. JetMech727

    JetMech727
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    I know. But you know how it is when ya just don't have the desire. The car is very close. Couldn't tell you the amount of times I've told myself that.
     
  4. JetMech727

    JetMech727
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    Indy,

    1st pic is dash layout. I hadn't installed 12v out yet.

    2nd pic is of wire for pulling wire bundles exiting frame

    3rd pic you can see the holes for headlight / turn signal wires in between the shock tower. I would like to use some steel braid I have on hand over the wire between the exit hole and bottom of headlight bucket. I keep a 50' roll of it on hand to dress wiring up a bit when the occasion arises.

    20170701_190142 (1).jpg 20180609_124918 (1).jpg 20180513_143630.jpg
     
    #4 JetMech727, Oct 10, 2018
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2018
  5. old round fart

    old round fart
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    I think I can make a harness for that dash as is. No problems!
     
  6. Indycars

    Indycars
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    If there are wiring diagrams to any switches, please post them or a link will also work.

    Some Flexo braided sleeve and maybe some Adel clamps. I have both, but if you want a specific color like Red, then you might have to order some. There will be other places that need protection and cosmetic dress up like the engine bay. The closed braid can be a pain to add wires at a later date, so keep that in mind.

    I bought mine here.....
    WireCare.com | Your Local Cable Management Superstore!

    Do you have a plan for dis-connecting the harness from the body? Will those connectors fit thru a 3/4 inch hole? You can wire direct, but it's not nearly as easy to reconnect all the wires. But then again you will not have over 12 circuits. Your call.

    I have Deutsch DT and DTM connectors with 2 to 12 wires each. Here is some info to consider .....
    Deutsch DT Connector Basics | Deutsch Connector Store

    Deutsch Connectors – The Basics:
    Deutsch DTM Series:
    This size 20 connector will accommodate wire sizes from 22-16 gauge depending on which contact is used. DTM connectors come in 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 12 pin configurations. The maximum current (amp) draw on each pin would be 7.5 amps continuously.

    Deutsch DT Series:
    This size 16 connector will accommodate wire sizes from 20-14 gauge depending on which contact is used.. DT connectors come in 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 12 pin configurations. The maximum current (amp) draw on each pin would be 13 amps continuously.

    Deutsch DTP Series:
    This size 12 connectors will accommodate wire from 14-10 gauge depending on which contact is used. DTP connectors are only available in 2 and 4 pin configurations. The maximum current (amp) draw on each pin would be 25 amps continuously.

    Will the fan switch control a relay that carries the high current. It's the preferred way.

    No, it will come directly from the battery positive terminal.

    Very good thinking and planning!
     
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  7. Indycars

    Indycars
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    I have to ask, do you like the alternator up high where it is now? Now is the time to move it if not. I think Spanky has his mounted down low and on the passenger side. You have the steering box on the driver side, so I see why you went high.

    Do you want a master cut-off switch, I have a Blue Seas one that I didn’t not use? Ran out of room.

    Can you get a rough idea if the harness wires are long enough to reach the dash? It should, but lets be sure.

    I guess you have plans for getting the seat riser installed?

    Center divider, what holes ……… pic please.

    You need to think about placement of each component that’s going under the seat and where those wires are going.
    Let’s do a drawing to scale like below.
    UnderSeatWiringLayout02.jpg
     
  8. Gerry

    Gerry
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    I feel your pain...

    wiring coming along (12) [640x480] (2015_11_13 11_07_31 UTC).JPG
     
  9. Indycars

    Indycars
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    I see what your saying.
     
  10. Indycars

    Indycars
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    I like your optimism, but it always takes 3 times longer than expected. I would expect it to take several days. There is always something you forget to consider and now you have to wait on parts ..... etc.

    Sorry, just think it's going to take longer than one long day, especially when you have 2-1/2 hours to get there.
     
  11. Indycars

    Indycars
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    Some info about the Blue Sea cutoff switch to help you decide if you want this. It cost $29 on Amazon. Anything I have will can be purchased at a 20% discount from the Amazon price or where ever I bought it if Amazon price is not available. Just thought this should be up front in our conversation.

    Note the height of 4.020 inches, is your riser tall enough?

    BlueSea_CutOffSwitch_6005_Dimensions.JPG
    BlueSea_CutOffSwitch_6005_TopView.JPG

    Are you opposed to using screws that go directly into your floor under the seat???

    Specs are here .....
    m-Series Mini On-Off Battery Switch with Key - Red - Blue Sea Systems
     
    #11 Indycars, Oct 11, 2018
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2018
  12. JetMech727

    JetMech727
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  13. Indycars

    Indycars
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    I'm sorry, I already have everything you have posted saved into a folder for my reference. But I remember some more switches like headlight switch that probably has terminals that have labels. That's what I was asking for.

    Did you see my Private Message (PM)? Top right corner of screen.
     
  14. JetMech727

    JetMech727
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    I'm not sure what happened to that reply. I had all your questions answered. Just looks like it's frozen in time on my screen.
     
  15. Indycars

    Indycars
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    See if you can copy the text before you loose it, then paste it into a text document on your computer.

    I was getting worried about my long post above, so I went ahead and made it official. Then I added another post. I hate doing something twice !!!!!!!

    Sometimes I will do it in MS Word on my computer, then when I'm happy I will post it into a thread.
     
  16. JetMech727

    JetMech727
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    Too late. Won't let me edit. Grrr I did notice if you click on expand in faded portion it will open normally.

    I'll get to your pm shortly.
     
  17. JetMech727

    JetMech727
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    Indy,

    "I have to ask, do you like the alternator up high where it is now? Now is the time to move it if not. I think Spanky has his mounted down low and on the passenger side. You have the steering box on the driver side, so I see why you went high."

    Glad you ask. The answer is not particularly but i'm using a mechanical fuel pump.

    "Do you want a master cut-off switch, I have a Blue Seas one that I didn’t not use? Ran out of room."

    No thanks. I have one mounted at the pos battery terminal.

    "I guess you have plans for getting the seat riser installed?"

    Yes. Before any wiring starts.

    "Center divider, what holes ……… pic please."

    Riser is visible in second pic posted above. It's against the wall sitting on my seat bottom & seat back below the show board for my 32.

    "You need to think about placement of each component that’sgoing under the seat and where those wires are going."

    Done. Very simple. Fuse box mounted to riser back under passenger side and dimmer switch mounted in riser between my legs. Wires from box will pass through riser holes on each side and head off to their destination either down through the chassis or up the body interior side to reach dash.
     
  18. PotvinGuy

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    727, have you decided how the turn signals will be activated?
     
  19. AusBucket

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    G'Day Jetmech727,
    On the cars we have built down under we put the isolation switch on the negative side of the system, it's considered to be a safer way of isolating circuits.
    Regards,
     
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  20. JetMech727

    JetMech727
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    Not really. The only two alternatives I'm aware of both look rather cheap.

    Speedway Heavy Duty Turn Signal Switch

    Speedway Standard Turn Signal Switch

    I have both on hand but honestly may not use either. May end up going with just a simple toggle switch in the seat riser next to the dimmer switch. Problem with it in the seat riser is possible damage from stepping on it getting in & out of the car. But I also don't like the idea of leaning forward to operate it if I put it on the dash. I like the simplicity of the speedway hot rod column but not having horn or turn signal capabilities is a pita. I'll make my final decision once I reinstall the column.
     






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