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High Arch Spring Mounting???????


I'm moving on to my mock up stage and starting with the rear,(why cause thats what parts I have already..LOL) I'm using the High arch rear spring from speedway,(THANK'S AL !!!)

and I'm mounting it to a S-10 4wd rear-end with this the Model A/T spring mount.... My question is what is the best way to figure out where to mount the brackets to the rear? I know I need atleast 4to 5 degree's tilt in my diff. and that the shackles should be at 10 o'clock and 4 o'clock when at rest(or atleast thats what I have read and seen on various cars and done in the past). has anybody used this type set up before around here, and if so where and how far in from the backing plate did you mount them? Or can somebody point me in the right direction before I screw this up.. Also any tip's on welding these up to the rear, with out warping it.. I've welded spring perch's on my 68 Road runner before and never had a problem(or atleast I don't think I did.....)So O'WISE BUCKET HEAD'S I GIVE THIS QUESTION TO YOU, IN HOPE'S YOU CAN SHED SOME OF YOUR ALMIGHTY WISDOM DOWN UPON ME.....Thank's Ryan.. Also who sell's the Spring U-Bolts and bracket for this spring to mount up to a Model A crossmember..
ive welded perches and brackets on several rears. if everything is in the rear dump motor oil in it and coat everything drain and fill with water the weld will bond but not heat the rear all around to warp or weaken. drain water and add ur 90 wt. tape all the holes if punkin and axle are not in rear and do the same .. oh yea 144bucks for a gps speedo. tiger go to refurbished and look at the nuvi 200 only 144,

I drew this up a while ago... so anyway you can see how mine is setup... Don't make it right, just how mine is! :razz:





So the brackets for the shackle mounts are 2 plates mounted one inch (outside to outside) separated and reinforced by a piece of tube steel... then the shackle mounts bolt on to them... This way the spring aligns itself to the perch... but like I said... this is how mine is done... might not necessary be the best way...
I have exactly that same setup on the rear of my '27. What I did was measure the spring width at rest, then measured the centerline on the shackle X 2, then to that figure I added about 2 inches per side so the spring will stretch out. That way when I put weight on the car the shackles settled down to about the 45 degree angle you want.

I also built a simple jig to go between both Speedway perches to hold both in the same plane while welding. I spot welded first, then fully welded them on. I did part of one side, let it air cool, then did part of the other side. Then I moved back to the other side, etc. This keeps warpage down.

You MIGHT find out your S10 rear is a little narrow for this setup, even the wider 4 x 4 version you have. My rear in the '27 is a 9 inch Ford out of a Mercury Montego (somewhat wider than my S10 rear) and even at that I had to have a new shorter main leaf made up at a local spring shop. The original was just too close to the backing plates.

Finally, be sure to set you pinion angle UP about 3 degrees first before you level up your new perches for welding. I put it up on jackstands, use a protractor to get the 3 degrees up, block it there, and then intall my perches on the right plane TO LAY INTO MY CROSSMEMBER. Sometimes you will actually have your rear spring tilting forward a little because of the rake of the car, but that is what you need to do.

Oh, for the second part of your question, Mac's Automotive used to carry the U bolts and spring plates.

Are you using the Model A drive shaft and torque tube? The angle on this type of rear end is a little more forgiving because of the single U-joint. You can actually run this type of rear end anywhere from 0 to 6 degrees. It would be a good idea to set your frame at ride height and mock the engine and trans in the frame to check the angle of the drive shaft tube. Be sure to set the engine so the carb flange is level.

Youngster said:
Are you using the Model A drive shaft and torque tube?

No, he's running an S10 rear, that is why I mentioned the 3 degrees. Some people like 4 or 5 degrees, I have always just used 3 with no problems.

LRS30, I will be at the shop tonight and will not only measure my perches, but will take a picture or two for you.

Don thank's I got everything mocked up I measured my stock Banjo and eye to eye was 46" It worked out perfect, I made a jig(thank's for the tip) got everything sized up and looks like I am gonna have to make a taller kick up..Was not my first choice but It's just way to tall the way it sit's now..even with a mild 6" kick up and the A crossmember it sit's like a 4x4.. So it look's like I may end up with close to a 10 to 12 kick up, but I am gonna wait till I get my tires mounted up next weekend before I do any frame hacking..... How tall is your kick up on your 27?
Sorry are you mounting the spring over the housing or behind it?

What would it look like if you mounted the spring behind the axel?

I hear ya. Modifieds look the best when their butt is low. I'll be watchin' for your next post.

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