How sharp should my front wheels turn?

[Bowtie T]

I am in the build process. I have a cross steer setup and don't know if my front wheels are turning
sharp enough before my tie rod hits my spring shackles. I put a protractor on it & looks like they turn
34 degrees. Is this enough?

 

[EX JUNK]

I am in the build process. I have a cross steer setup and don't know if my front wheels are turning
sharp enough before my tie rod hits my spring shackles. I put a protractor on it & looks like they turn
34 degrees. Is this enough?

I,too, have cross steering and as close as I can measure I get 50 degrees and it seems to be more than enough for me even with a 108" wheelbase.

Jim

 

[Bowtie T]

Thanks Jim, I guess it will be good enough then.

 

[Bowtie T]

I guess 34 degrees will not be enough? Any one else have any input? I thought about offsetting my tie rod for more clearance?

 

[Bowtie T]

Wow, been 2 weeks & no replies except for Ex junk, his tie rod is in front of the axle not behind like mine. Guess i'll figure it out myself.
Thanks Exjunk for your help it is very much appreciated.

 

[409T]

I was thinking that cross steering was important here but I guess all you are after is the angle. The T-bucket I checked has a 104" wheel base and a corvair steering box with the steering arm mounted on the back of the spindle. Nevertheless the sharpest I can turn the wheels is just under 35 deg. and it works fine for city driving. U-turns without backing and filling are not a problem. I have included a picture of the back end of that car. Maybe you can get a matching Florida plate.

 

[Bowtie T]

I was thinking that cross steering was important here but I guess all you are after is the angle. The T-bucket I checked has a 104" wheel base and a corvair steering box with the steering arm mounted on the back of the spindle. Nevertheless the sharpest I can turn the wheels is just under 35 deg. and it works fine for city driving. U-turns without backing and filling are not a problem. I have included a picture of the back end of that car.

Thanks 409 by the way I like your tag,hope I didn't steal your name.

 

[baddawgcustoms]

Thanks 409 by the way I like your tag,hope I didn't steal your name.

I'm hoping SWEET T isn't taken for a Georgia plate!

 

[409T]

hope I didn't steal your name.

No , you didn't. The T-bucket that I drive all the time has 409T for its plate. Actually, for the blue one I was going to steal "Bowtee" from someone else but they never released the name when they sold the T-bucket which had that plate so I ended up with what I have.

 

[Francis Blake]

I will try to give you my experience like yours. Some axles have bat wings that are longer than other axles, with the tie rod behind this moves the hubs forward, thus moving the steering arms forward bringing the the tie rod closer to the spring shackles, which remain stationary, so in a turn the tie rod hits the spring shackles I don't know if anyone makes steering arms longer than normal, but that would fix the problem.

 

[RPM]

We can make steering arms up to 48" if needed. Lol. But yes we can make them any length needed. We can make them with out the tie rod hole so you can drill your own.

 

[Francis Blake]

All it would take is about one half inch in most cases

 

[T-Test]

Turning radius will depend how close the radius rods mount to the spindle mount hole/ kingpin hole. Spindle stops will also play a factor. If you can do a 3 point turn on a two lane road without getting off the road, IMO you have enough turning radius. Changing the length of the arms will change where the tie rod hits or misses the shackles. Some will disagree with me, I know.

 

[Bowtie T]

Thanks guys for your help, I made my steering arms from stainless steel & polished them out so I really hate to make new ones. I think I'll try offsetting my tie rod first, I think
I only need a few more degrees. if that doesn't work I'll make new arms.