Jag rear info - got some good advice from a jag expert

[Keeper]

So I was looking for some camber shims today and was given the info of a local jaguar expert, mechanic and owner.

We got to talking about all the different things with the IRS.

Some suggestions I got from him:

- for a t-bucket use the e-type springs/shocks. They are the same length as the newer cars, but the e-type is only about 2200lbs, so the rates will match a bucket damn near perfect.
- seems the owners of of the older e-types, really like the 2.88 gears. So much so that we are working out a swap over the winter.
- only grease the inner fulcrums when you assemble the rear end, to much just gathers dirt and kills the seals
- Some of the newer 90's jags had a finned aluminum diff cover, great for cooling, less leaks, and it just looks cool.

I am sure there was a bunch more, I just wish I would have found this guy earlier in the build, might have saved some trouble.

If I remember anything else I will post it up.

 

[Keeper]

Oh yeah

- He never had good luck with the KYB replacement shocks. The stock Boge are much better.
- Beware the HD springs for the rear, they were a harsh ride for the 4000lb sedan.

 

[Youngster]

Kool stuff ... keep us posted!

Ron

 

[AZCOWBO]

I run a 2.88 jag diff. and hubs. Shafts, hairpins, and swingarms are custom. With 4 - 115# adjustable coilovers, it rides like a Jag (Almost).

 

[Gerry]

Yore about 500 lbs light pon the curb weight of a Mk1 E type. 2700 up to 2900 on the sedan

 

[Keeper]

Thats a whole lot of shiny!

I have been putting off changing things over, I got to take the bucket out for a spin a week ago I will report back once I do.

 

[Keeper]

Yore about 500 lbs light pon the curb weight of a Mk1 E type. 2700 up to 2900 on the sedan

Good to know. Hopefully the new springs will be lite enough. If not I can always sell them to the guy that gave me the info!

 

[Ted Brown]

I used the lighter springs and even had one set changed to 1/2 strength, plus drilled a hole in those two shocks so only one set of shocks were in use, rides like a Cad, very, very nice, took some driving and testing to get to that point, remember each car is different...

 

[Igor]

I am new to the whole JAG rear . i have a t bucket i am rebuilding and i just took the jag rear out of it and i want to give it a clean up and make it fancy but i have no clue where to start with this thing. any help like links to get me jag info or personal exp would be AWESOME!

 

[Igor]

also a place to buy replacement parts would be awesome as well

 

[Keeper]

Parts:

https://www.sngbarrattusa.com/

Info:
http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/JaguarIRS1.html
http://www.uk-hotrods.co.uk/v2/tech/jag_rear/tech_jag.php
http://irsforum.boardhost.com/viewforum.php?id=1

And of course all the folks here will help out if you run into issues.

 

[Screaming Metal]

I used the lighter springs and even had one set changed to 1/2 strength, plus drilled a hole in those two shocks so only one set of shocks were in use, rides like a Cad, very, very nice, took some driving and testing to get to that point, remember each car is different...

• Just as Ted said, the thing here is adjustability. If you go to any swap meets, pick up a couple sets of springs, you can usually pick some up on the cheap. Every car you build is different, especially if you change, motors, trans, and frame material. Other things to consider are also body styles....C-Cabs, etc....

If you read what Ted said, he's more or less running 1 set of shocks and 2 sets of springs. The adjustables would be a really great setup with the Jag Rear.....darn, that thing looks purdy!!!!
Sitting here at a airport between flights, cruisin' time is almost upon us once agian!

 

[Ted Brown]

I like to install the Jag rears pretty much as they come, just a bit of clean up, so you can see what you have... I also move the spring mounts inboard about 2" per side (top only) and I also leave the frame bare metal, along with all the running gear, etc. till I drive the car at least 1000 miles, to test and change all that needs to be changed, plus to make sure all the parts that you bought, new or used, WORK as needed... When all is working and riding as you want, now you can take it all apart and do your pretty thing, as money allows PS, If you have to, borrow the plates off another rod? or ? to do your testing, unless you already have tags for your new project, in that case, you are home free...

 

[Igor]

thank you guys. i just took the rear apart and have cleaned it up a bunch . who ever owned it before me had all the parts chrome...then when rust pits happened he spray painted the whole thing silver. i am not sure if IRS has posi or not. this is my first IRS and its all strange to me lol. ill post pics asap.

 

[Igor]

 

[Igor]

 

[Igor]

 

[Igor]

sorry for the huge pictures! still not sure that year it is but i hope you guys can help .numbers on the tags read.....46/13. and 7.5 also 3333 D is stamped into it . and i am still cleaning the grime off this thing . still not sure y anyone would spray paint this thing red silver and purple when it was chrome before .

 

[Lee_in_KC]

The 46/13 number is your ring to pinion ratio... 3.54. If that tag doesn't have a "P" or "PL" on it, then the diff did not originally come with "Power-Lok," which is Jag's version of posi. However, the previous owner(s) could have changed out both the ring and pinion and the carrier, so you may have something other than a 3.54 ratio and you may have an aftermarket posi. Only way to tell is pop off the rear cover.

 

[Igor]

k i will have to look for the P or PL. and i will open it up and take a pic . thank you for the info