Jag rear
- Thread starter Youngster
- Start date
Ted Brown
Member
Well guys, do you see a problem here?? a few for that matter... First look at that axle, the third member is way too low, the frame kick needs to be higher, so as to straighten out those axles, as that is what wears the tires out on the inside. also, those bent tube braces from the bottom of the third member to the frame are pretty much usless... Those rods need to be more forward and kept straight, as they take a lot of stress, unless you do use a workable, long set of radius rods, which is really what this set up needs... and do not then need those short brace rods. As they will just bind things up this way... a fight between the brace rods and the radius rods... one says stop and the other says come with me..
from what i've found in my research, there is a school of thought that says the axle struts should be level instead of the axles. i don't think that should be the case though. as you said, that leads to bad tire wear.i noticed the axle angles and the front pinion struts too ted. if the frame shock bracket was turned 180* it might help raise the car and level the axles.putting a 45* brake in the tie bar would eliminate the need for the dog leg in the front struts.
now for the plus things i see. he did retain a plate on the bottom of the center section. this helps stablize the trunions for the axle struts, something you will find a lot of builders eliminate. the mounts are great for a car that will see show use....judges like candy.
Ron
now for the plus things i see. he did retain a plate on the bottom of the center section. this helps stablize the trunions for the axle struts, something you will find a lot of builders eliminate. the mounts are great for a car that will see show use....judges like candy.
Ron
Bill Pedersen
Member
Here are a couple more pictures of the same car. It does have long radius rods, even mounted with bushings. (No square tubing here :buttkick
What you cant see in the pictures is that 3 of the tires are setting fairly level on concrete and one of the front tires is on a different surface. The car didnt appear to have any inside tire wear problem.
What you cant see in the pictures is that 3 of the tires are setting fairly level on concrete and one of the front tires is on a different surface. The car didnt appear to have any inside tire wear problem.
Ted Brown
Member
Looks like you could run a deeper wheel to the inside to get things closer to the body... and, they do make special shims that mount between the U joint flanges and the rotors, to get your tires sitting straight, or as you like them, a bit positive before loaded... run flat, more traction and less wear...Lee_in_KC said:
Todd
Member
Ted Brown said:
I looked at the pics trying to see what you were refering to.
Now this may be wrong, but if you make the kick up taller and the coils still mount the same.....won't you have the same problem only with the profile looking squatty?
Now, What if..... a piece of boxed tubing was added under the the rear crossmember where the coils mount, thus raising the rear of the car and leveling the axles?
GAB
Member
In order to raise the back of the car to the point that the half shafts are level or colinear when at normal loaded (driver, passenger and fuel, etc) ride height, all he needs to do is make new upper shock mounting brackets. Drop the tube that has the shock mounting shaft in relation to the existing bolt holes and maybe move it outboard a little.
At least that's what I'd do if it were mine.oop:
At least that's what I'd do if it were mine.
oop:
Lee_in_KC
Active Member
Hey Ted, I have done exactly as you suggest. I bought a new set of Center Lines with 1.5" more backset than the ones I had... leaves me about 3/4" clearance between the wheel and the bottom of the hub carrier. I have also adjusted the camber shims to get zero camber at ride height. Tires are wearing very evenly. My half-shafts sit level at ride height.Ted Brown said:
Hot Rod Todd
Member
Neddy,
Jimmy Keeys in Palmerston North (New Zealand) runs Ace Customs and casts stuff for Jag bums and is a real good dude to deal with. And not that far away from where you are.
I have his stuff - finned bottom plate, rear locator arm/tie bar, and quickchange style rear cover on my 37 Nash project.
If you are going for the Q/c type rear cover, you need to get the marching bottom plate. I didnt, but he was happy to swap at no charge.
Go to www.ace-customs.com and see if that meets your needs.
cheers
Hot Rod Todd
Jimmy Keeys in Palmerston North (New Zealand) runs Ace Customs and casts stuff for Jag bums and is a real good dude to deal with. And not that far away from where you are.
I have his stuff - finned bottom plate, rear locator arm/tie bar, and quickchange style rear cover on my 37 Nash project.
If you are going for the Q/c type rear cover, you need to get the marching bottom plate.
I didnt, but he was happy to swap at no charge. Go to www.ace-customs.com and see if that meets your needs.
cheers
Hot Rod Todd
Lee_in_KC
Active Member
Ron, you can get the shims at any Jag dealer for mucho dinero ($$$), or you can go to Custom Jaguar IRS independent rear suspension - Jag irs - Cobra irs and order or you can google "jaguar camber shims" and come up with a half-dozen places to order on-line. I've been told you can even get them from NAPA, but I don't have a part number.
Lee_in_KC
Active Member
Kim, you may not need to "go thru" it at all. What year and how many miles?
Jags are pretty much bullet proof in their original installation. Ring, pinion and carrier are Dana 44, so parts are readily available. Shops are going to quote high because they don't know much about them, but they're not that different from domestic rearends. I paid $450 to have my Jag totally rebuilt.
Jags are pretty much bullet proof in their original installation. Ring, pinion and carrier are Dana 44, so parts are readily available. Shops are going to quote high because they don't know much about them, but they're not that different from domestic rearends. I paid $450 to have my Jag totally rebuilt.
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