Bill Pedersen
Member
Lee,
When you set your camber, did you have it on an alignment machine?
When you set your camber, did you have it on an alignment machine?
Jag rear
- Thread starter Youngster
- Start date
Ted Brown
Member
You also need to have weight in the seats, like driver and passenger,,, we just use a square to see how things are looking, nothing rear critical anyway, just what looks right will do... as it will change all the time with every dip and different riders weights...Bill Pedersen said:
Lee_in_KC
Active Member
I just put a carpenter's level across the top of the tire. I did not put any weight in the car when I did it. The car only settles about 1/2" with me in it (springs are still too stiff!!) and I figured it was close enough for the reasons Ted mentions. I only had to add one shim to each side (there were already four from the stock set-up).
Re the e-brakes, I think you can get parts from Rock Auto. If not, there are several on-line Jag parts dealers. Just google "jag parts."
Re the e-brakes, I think you can get parts from Rock Auto. If not, there are several on-line Jag parts dealers. Just google "jag parts."
Bill Pedersen
Member
Lee,
If you are ever interested in putting your car on an alignment machine, just let me know. I have a Hunter 4 wheel alignment system. It might be interesting to see where the camber is at.
It wouldn't cost you anything. I'm in Ottawa, about 40 minutes south of you on I-35.
Bill
If you are ever interested in putting your car on an alignment machine, just let me know. I have a Hunter 4 wheel alignment system. It might be interesting to see where the camber is at.
It wouldn't cost you anything. I'm in Ottawa, about 40 minutes south of you on I-35.
Bill
Ted Brown
Member
Just a thought here, we always make the spring mounts closer to the center of the chassis, so that way they work a lot nicer with the lighter weight, you must think leverage here again, absolutely no body overhang as with any stock Jag, so you are not needing nearly that much leverage against the chassis, put it towards the spring... mount them narrower at the top, if it seems like too stiff of a ride, I drill a small hole in the rear shock to let the fluid out, softer ride
Love them Jag rears
Love them Jag rearsturbo minivan
New Member
how much power can a stock jag rear take? wheres the weakest link? (probly the U-joints) could one take a lightly blown 454? (maybe 6-700hp or so)
Keeper
Active Member
Well the center section is a dana 44. They can take a bit of abuse and can be built up damn strong.
I am not sure the u joints would really be a weak link. They are pretty stout pieces (well compared to some of the ones Jeeps use anyway).
IMO With the light weight of a T you would lose traction long before you broke the rearend.
I am not sure the u joints would really be a weak link. They are pretty stout pieces (well compared to some of the ones Jeeps use anyway).
IMO With the light weight of a T you would lose traction long before you broke the rearend.
turbo minivan
New Member
^ good point
oldtman
New Member
When I was at Ford one of the engineers set the road race track record at Michigan international.with his 427 Cobra. He still races it... over the years he broke a lot of parts. He traded holman and moody for a tunel port that was puting out 750 hp; back in about 67. HE found U joints that didn't have any grease zerks, the grease passages weaken the joint. Shelby used jag rears in a couple of cars then the rears were redesigned to move the brakes out to the wheels and to use 3/4 ford pickup parts in the drive axles.
CARS34PHORD
Member
To narrow a jag xj6 to use under a 34 ford to move the tires in under the fenders if you take 2" out of each lower h bar do you also take 2" from the wheel drive shafts or will this mess up geo of the rear end an how do you figure the spring rates for liter cars
I have a XJ6 1980's rearend for my tbucket build. I disassembled the diff cage and took measurements for everything except the distance between the two upper shock mounting points. I have also dumped the cage so I can't get a measurement off of that. Does anyone know this measurement because I want to keep the standard geometry if possible.
Thanks
Neddy
Thanks
Neddy
Ted Brown
Member
When mounting and using a Jag in a T Bucket, the top coil spring mounts need to be in closer to the third member, less weight by far, so remember leverage is needed to make it work correctly now...neddy said:I have a XJ6 1980's rearend for my tbucket build. I disassembled the diff cage and took measurements for everything except the distance between the two upper shock mounting points. I have also dumped the cage so I can't get a measurement off of that. Does anyone know this measurement because I want to keep the standard geometry if possible.
Thanks
Neddy
Lee_in_KC
Active Member
Stock measurement is 30". Ride height and quality are easily adjusted using spring length, spring rate and adjustable coil-overs. If you are going to use the stock Jag coil-overs, then Ted is correct... you will need to lay the coil-overs more and probably just use one per side.neddy said:...the distance between the two upper shock mounting points.
Thanks
Neddy
Ted Brown
Member
I use the 4 coilovers because that is for the look that the Jag is used for in the first place, I THINK, I drill two shocks, drain all the fluid, and have two coils made at 1/2 strength... after getting your car finished and riding, you can either use the stock coil in front, if a softer ride is wanted, or use the stock coil in the rear for a stronger lift... That is how my chassis setup works on anything with a Jag rear... Weight and leverage is key to where everything is mounted... Hope this is understandableLee_in_KC said:
AZCOWBO
Member
I have a Jag. diff, axles, hubs, and inbound brakes and calipers, with Buterra fabricated swingarms, and four inverted coilovers on mine. The ride height will be a little high and the ride ruff, but it looks good. That is what that counts isn't it, ha. (Go to my album for photos.)
Similar threads
