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Kaaso's T

Just wanted to give a quick update on my latest progress.

Been working on the exhaust headers. Since no one offers "sprint" style headers for my engine, I used a BBC kit and assembled them to fit my engine. Big Thanks to Davey for all his help. Right now everything is just tacked together. I really want to get them TIG welded. While they are not perfect, I am plenty happy with them for being my first set of headers. Here are a couple of pics.right header.JPGleft header.JPG
 
Nice job on headers. How close is exit from tires? Nice how they tuck under body. cuts down on what we call T bucket tattoos/exhaust burns.
 
Thanks for the compliments.


After looking through this thread it, it came to my attention that I have not shared my rear end story.

Have ya ever bought something off CL and thought by doing so you would actually save money in the long run? Well sit back and enjoy my misery.....

A couple of years ago when I started my project, I purchased a complete Ford 9" rear end off of CL for $500. I was told it was built (new bearings, gears, etc.) by a local speed shop for his Mustang drag car and he had never installed it. From what I could tell about the rear end with out opening it up this was all true, plus it has the gear ratio I was wanting (3.70:1). I also noticed it must have had a locker or a spool because the axles would not turn opposite of each other. I asked and he said he thought it had a spool. I thought no biggie, I can swap that out for a differential. So I took it home cut off all the Mustang mounts, purchased new 4 bar mounts and installed in my bucket.

Fast forward to earlier this summer when it came time to pull the rear end apart to swap out the carrier. I pulled it apart and sure enough the grease was clean, all the bearings appeared new, the gears (3.70:1 Richmond)and spool were all new. I counted the splines on the axles and found it to have 33 splines. I thought this was a weird number and sure enough I was right. You cant purchase a limited slip diff with 33 splines. I thought oh well guess I need to buy new axles too. So I ordered a new 31 spine Currie 9+ diff with bearings ($450) and 31 spline Currie "cut to fit" axles with bearings and seals($400). I installed the new bearings on the new diff and swapped the gears from the spool to the diff. Got everything set up in the third member and sealed up back in the housing with a new Fel-Pro gasket ($16). We cut the axles to the correct length and pressed the new bearing on the new axles. While getting out my new Wilwood disc brake kit, my good buddy Davey grabbed the bearing retainer that comes with the brake kit and held it up to the axle flange. He quickly noticed it was not the same bolt pattern. The bearing retainer did not fit the flange on my axle housing. I thought I had bought the wrong brake kit, I verified the part number to be correct. We grabbed the bearing retainer that came with the new axles and it matched the one in the brake kit but did not fit the axle flange on my housing. Not only were the flanges different, the bearings were different sizes too. Let me just say, I was confused. We googled and found a picture of all the different axle flanges for all Ford 9" housings and came to the realization the flanges on my housing did not match any of them. After more searching the net for answers I figured out my flanges looked like that of a Ford 8.8" housing. After more research, I found my housing is actually a Moser brand housing built with those flanges so it could be installed in a Fox body mustang and use the stock drum brakes. Humm, ok so I have a Wilwood disc brake kit that I have had for several months now(and prolly can't return) that will not fit my rear end, plus the new bearings on my new axles will not fit this housing. I called Moser and their "tech" guy informed me, my only option would be to order new 8.8" flange bearings and install drum brakes from a Mustang. I didn't like that answer because I wanted to use my Wilwood disc brakes. While I had this dude on the phone, I was flipping through the Moser website and came along some new axle flanges. So I asked the guy, "cant I just buy new axle flanges for a big bearing Ford with Torino style seals and put them on my housing?" He said, " you can buy those, but you will probably need someone else to install them." My replay, " yea ok, just gett'em coming!" So another $120 later I had new axle flanges sitting here ready to install. I called my buddy Davey and we started cutting the axle housing. We lined everything back up and I welded on the new flanges

So long story short....my CL rear end cost me over $1400 by the time it was put back under the car. I know this is about the same or maybe a little bit cheaper than if I had bought everything new to begin with. But look at all that fun I would have missed out on. And thanks to my buddy Davey, I now have some new mad skillz!!!

 
Worked on my T some this weekend. I didnt like the lack of turning radius I had with the Unisteer rack and pinion so I went ahead and installed a traditional Vega style box.

vega steering gear.JPGsteering shaft.JPG
 
Not trying to give you a bad time.... mounting your rad. solid is not a good idea... too much vibration... better to fab some sort of isolation system..[rubber/ springs] otherwise your new rad will most likely develop leaks.... just trying to help...

dave
 
Dave can you show some pics of the way your thinking of for us new guys . Thanks
 
All I did was mount the radiator using 1/2 rubber to try to isolate some of the vibration
A pad sitting on the frame then the radiator that way there is some dampening of the vibration
Frank
 
Not trying to give you a bad time.... mounting your rad. solid is not a good idea... too much vibration... better to fab some sort of isolation system..[rubber/ springs] otherwise your new rad will most likely develop leaks.... just trying to help...

dave

I mounted mine solid and have close to 20K miles on it in the last 6 years with no problems at all.

IMG_0671_2.jpg


Jim
 
While mounting a rad. solid obviously has worked well for some , my point of reference has always been to emulate what is done on production vehicles... in which case EVERY rad. I've ever seen has been mounted in rubber.
dave
 

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