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Laying out a Frame

Studebucket

New Member
I am going to buy some 2x4 steel and start to lay out my frame. I have the engine, transmission and rear end, but no body. Do I need the body first or can I look at the spec for the body, give myself an inch and call it good.
 
i would suggest you have the body on hand but it is possible to build your frame, front and rear suspensions without it.

Ron
 
I might also suggest using some 2 x 4 wood for an initial mock up. Wood is a whole lot cheaper than steel to allow for "miscalculations".

Jim
 
just remember to measure several times before you cut your steel cause if you measure wrong thne you got a scrap piece of steel what's tthat old sying measure twice cut once
 
Is there a special reason for using 2X4? Most use 2X3 and some 1 1/2 X3. Myself , I am going with 1 1/2X4 on a '27 to capture the deuce rail look.
 
JMHO! 2 x 4 steel? 2 x 3 is the norm. 2 x 4 will look bulky at the front unless you are going to taper the front frame rails ala Youngster's frame plans.
 
der Spieler said:
JMHO! 2 x 4 steel? 2 x 3 is the norm. 2 x 4 will look bulky at the front unless you are going to taper the front frame rails ala Youngster's frame plans.


That's my plan exactly.
 
Maybe it's just because my mind works in simple ways, but I like to have all the major components on hand before I lay up a frame. I set the body at the ride height I want, I block the engine into place so it looks good and has adequate clearance, I mock up the rear and front axles, then I sit back and drink a cold one and eyeball it for a while. This gives me a chance to work out any clearance issues before the frame is welded up.

Also, I personally like 2 x 3 x 3/16 tubing. It has a nicer profile to it than 1.5 IMO, and is substantially stronger. The thicker walls of the 3/16 also allows you to tap threads for non structural items like cables and lines. I was going to mention that 4 inch was overkill too, but since you are going to taper it that makes sense.

Don
 
Well, thank you for wanting to copy it...........that's my Son Dan's frame for his 30 RPU. :sofnny: This one he actually built from mandrel bent back rails and side rails he had bent at the local steel supply shop. It has taken us a year to get it to this point, but it is stripped down right now because the powder coater screwed up and the clear was coming off. But that is another story.

Here are some more shots in case you want to see them. I consider it a compliment someone wants to do something like it. :rofl:

Don

dansrpuinstallingfrontend004-1.jpg


dansframestartingtoassemble007.jpg


dansframestartingtoassemble009.jpg


This is what the finished car will be like.............

dans30firewallcutout006-3.jpg


Here is the frame after we started jigging it up.......

dans30shorteningframe005.jpg


And an early shot where Dan is modifying the rear section to fit...

dansnewrpuframe002.jpg
 
Studebucket said:
The front part, yes. The rear will be like a standard T. I don't have that sort of skill. I really like the profile of it.
Since i have been looking at the pictures,the idea of building a t for myself is getting very strong.I have bought 2 different sets of plans and have laid them out on the floor of my garage just to see how long the frame really is.The one set is 100 inches and the other one is 104 inches.Looking at them both laid out on the floor with soap stone they sure dont seem long enough to have a V8 and the transmission and the rearend also. Am i wrong? Any help here would be greatly appreciated. Thank You
 
My chassis is 105 and thats with room for a big block chev and the three inch blower belt.

You will be fine at 102-104.

if you look thru old R&C mags, you will see some real clever buckets from the 60s that look about 90 inch and while tight, they look magic.
 
Studebucket,

Just for a reference, the 1963-1982 Corvettes had 98" wheelbases. The Camero had a 102" wheelbase. Looks can be deceiving. Lay out all of your components as they would be assembled and walk around them for several days. The Vision will come to you.

George
 

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