Lining up a new front end...how would you do it?
- Thread starter PotvinGuy
- Start date
Here's how it turned out:
Top pic is old setup with integral arms and tie rod ends. Bottom pics is with new spindles, RPM arms and spherical rod bearings. Note R&P arms are straight out now. Going to somehow add a steering damper before I bust it up for paint and chrome.
Top pic is old setup with integral arms and tie rod ends. Bottom pics is with new spindles, RPM arms and spherical rod bearings. Note R&P arms are straight out now. Going to somehow add a steering damper before I bust it up for paint and chrome.
Ma_n_Pa T
Member
Here's how it turned out:
Top pic is old setup with integral arms and tie rod ends. Bottom pics is with new spindles, RPM arms and spherical rod bearings. Note R&P arms are straight out now. Going to somehow add a steering damper before I bust it up for paint and chrome.
Looks much better, take it for a ride first, I don't think you will need a damper!
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
It will be interesting to hear how different it feels due to the change in lever length on the steering arms and the straiter tie rod from the rack. Do you notice much change in steering wheel travel as a result?Here's how it turned out:
Top pic is old setup with integral arms and tie rod ends. Bottom pics is with new spindles, RPM arms and spherical rod bearings. Note R&P arms are straight out now. Going to somehow add a steering damper before I bust it up for paint and chrome.
I don't expect much. The slightly longer arms might make it a little slower. It'll be a while before I know; it's still a few months up here in MN before I can get it on the road.
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
Winter is still on here too.
fluidfloyd
Active Member
Here's how it turned out:
Top pic is old setup with integral arms and tie rod ends. Bottom pics is with new spindles, RPM arms and spherical rod bearings. Note R&P arms are straight out now. Going to somehow add a steering damper before I bust it up for paint and chrome.
PotvinGuy...Just a suggestion but you might consider mounting the fixed end of your dampener on the leading face surface of the front cross member. The other end could be bolted just forward of the tie rod end mounting hole on the steering arm.That steering link and your dampener would basically be parallel and out of the way. Just something to think about. Also noticed no Ackerman...Interesting as I think it is over rated for most part. Lots of thoughts on this subject but I know a lot of road racing cars and NASCAR speedway cars run plus or minus 100% Ackerman depending where they are and what they want the car to do. Keep us posted.
George
FF, we are quantumly entangled! I was drawing out that very arrangement tonight. There are bolts for the R&P just under the front edge and I'm thinking of a plate spanning the width of the crossmember so I could put a damper on each side if needed. Ackermann: the pics deceive. It is better than the old setup. I'll calculate it later, but, as you say, it's not a big deal for us.
fluidfloyd
Active Member
PotvinGuy...I don't think you will need but one dampener. It is very hard to get two hydraulic cylinders to travel at the same exact speed due to seal friction and exactness of valving. In smaller cylinders such as these the cost factor usually limits the precision of control even with an adjustable valve. In the world of big hydraulics it is still a problem even with splitters and multiple adjustable valves. When stroking two cylinders at the same speed and pressure one will always lag behind the other. In big hydraulic press brakes they tie the two cylinders together mechanically with upper ram and then run it in tracked guides to position it for even stroke. My concern in opposing dampeners would be on one cylinder fighting the other cylinder stroke and giving you a less then smooth feeling. Just something to think about. I'll be watching.
George
George
fluidfloyd
Active Member
When stretching a tape using help it would drive me crazy when they would say "I'm just past the third black line." Give me a number and no not 50/100s!
Now Floyd, everyone doesn't have common sense or have been taught the real things that count in life. Reading--riting--rithmatic in schools have gone to hell in a hand basket,IMHO.
fluidfloyd
Active Member
Rack and Pinion units tend to need a damper less than a conventional steering box because of their design. The dampers should be a 50/50 type of shock, meaning that it should take the same pressure to compress as to extend (and also that can be used horizontally). Shocks for suspension sometimes are set up to have less rebound pressure than compression, some are adjustable top and bottom to allow the user to dial them in.
Although Ackerman may not be a big issue to some I would always strive to make the suspension design as correct as possible.
Although Ackerman may not be a big issue to some I would always strive to make the suspension design as correct as possible.
Didn't know/ mean to insult anyone!! YOU have to live with her, so tell her I'm sorry!!
Mine does the same thing when I ask for help.
fluidfloyd
Active Member
No insults by any means. We all know the truth and sometimes it hurts and sometimes it's great!
It's always great when I wake up and see daylight again.
old round fart
Well-Known Member
When you get my age they make me pay for food up front!
fluidfloyd
Active Member
At my age that is a real plus. BTW: You ever step out of one of those C-130 Herks? That's always good for your health!
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