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My Budget Traditional T Build

Like this:

23%20Oct%202010%20017.JPG_595.jpg

I wish that more guys would take that little extra time to do it right. With the grill shell higher than the top edge of the firewall it makes the car just look as if the builder didn't care or take the time to do things right . Besides that, it looks just plain goofy.

Jim
 
To somewhat echo what Jim said , If you channel the body 3" then it stands to reason you would channel the radiator/grille shell as well .
dave
 
Yes, l agree. I mocked it up with some tape tonight as suggested and it definitely needs to come down. 3" looks to be too much. Probably about 1-1/2" should look good and still keep it up and away from the road.
 
Well, I spent the day yesterday modifying the front shock mounts that originally wouldn't fit. I started out mocking up for the Pete & Jakes shorty shocks. They are about 11-1/4" extended and 7-7/8" collapsed. I figured a mounted length about in the middle (1-5/8" travel) should be about right. The front of the frame only has about 1-3/4" travel before it hits the center link, so more travel wouldn't help anyway. I don't think it will go much more than an inch because at 190 lbs., I jump up and down on the front end and it might move 1/2".

I ordered shackle plates but they weren't the correct configuration, so rather than send them back and take a chance on others, I decided to just modify these to work. The original is in the center in this photo.


After welding & grinding.


Upper shock mount before and after lengthening 1-1/2"




 
About how it will look. I decided to mount the uppers on the inside of the frame to add a little angle to them (pure aesthetics) and to get them out of the way of the headlights. They are a bit taller than what I was hoping for, but I think once the headlights are mounted and everything is finished, they will not look so prominent.



 
I drilled & tapped the frame for the upper shock mounts (I used fine thread to get more thread grooves in the 3/16" material) and test fit the whole setup. I'm not 100% convinced that tapping the frame is the best way to go, but I'll keep an eye on it to make sure it's not loosening up. During final assembly I'll loc-tite the bolts. I think it will be ok.

I think I will have to modify the lower shackle plates to move the bottom of the shocks outboard a little. The bottom of the shocks come awful close to the spring when the suspension is compressed and the plates rotate down. Other than that, I'm pretty happy with it.



 
I've been waiting on some things that have had me at a standstill for a while. I've been able to do some small stuff but nothing worth mentioning. But today I was able to put in a few good hours on the chassis. Specifically the rear radius rod mounts. I fabbed up all the pieces and tacked them together. Then brought them to my buddy with an industrial mig welder to do the final welding.


 
Then I set them up and tacked them on the frame. That took a lot of moving, measuring, tweaking to get them perfect side to side. But I got it done. This is a huge step for me as I have not been able to do much of anything while waiting for this to be done. Now I have the suspension pretty well sorted and adjusted so I can move on to other things.






After I weld a few more things, I'll take the frame back to my buddy so he can finish welding the mounts.
 
You don't have doors, so add a step on top to hide bracket. Aluminum foot or other design to help get in.
 
You don't have doors, so add a step on top to hide bracket. Aluminum foot or other design to help get in.
Thanks guys. Yes, that's why I wasn't too concerned about how the mounts look. I had planned on making small steps, but I'm undecided on the style. I've seen the ones with the Ford script, but I was thinking maybe something a little smaller and stealthy. Maybe one that swivels in and hides...or something...not sure yet...:thumbsdown:
 
Thanks guys. Yes, that's why I wasn't too concerned about how the mounts look. I had planned on making small steps, but I'm undecided on the style. I've seen the ones with the Ford script, but I was thinking maybe something a little smaller and stealthy. Maybe one that swivels in and hides...or something...not sure yet...:thumbsdown:

Looking real good Bob! I really like the stance of it. What's the drop on your axle?
 
Looking real good Bob! I really like the stance of it. What's the drop on your axle?
Thanks. It's a 4" drop axle, and the frame is 2" drop from a normal Spirit chassis (front perch raised 2" and rear kick-up 2" taller). It was an experiment to see how low I could get it without zee-ing the frame. 2" is about the limit IMO. After that you start to run into clearance issues with the steering box & oil pan. The next one I build will probably have a zee-d frame to get it down in the weeds where I like it ;)
 
Thanks. It's a 4" drop axle, and the frame is 2" drop from a normal Spirit chassis (front perch raised 2" and rear kick-up 2" taller). It was an experiment to see how low I could get it without zee-ing the frame. 2" is about the limit IMO. After that you start to run into clearance issues with the steering box & oil pan. The next one I build will probably have a zee-d frame to get it down in the weeds where I like it ;)

Thanks Bob. I'm going for 6" ground clearance in the front and 7 in the back, and every time I turn around, there is something new I'm trying to figure out. I'll definitely be propping my arm on the drive-shaft! But I'm going to do it.....eventually!
 
Thanks guys. Yes, that's why I wasn't too concerned about how the mounts look. I had planned on making small steps, but I'm undecided on the style. I've seen the ones with the Ford script, but I was thinking maybe something a little smaller and stealthy. Maybe one that swivels in and hides...or something...not sure yet...:thumbsdown:

Look at brake and clutch pedal pads in the HELP section of any auto store. Just weld a pedal- shaped tab on a bolt head and use the pad for a small unobtrusive step.
 

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