My ProjecTee
- Thread starter DonnyRay
- Start date
DonnyRay
Well-Known Member
The button head bolts were too long & i have to build up the inside area immediately behind the headlight mounts ( 1 1/2 ounce fiberglass mat ). 3 threaded studs are jutting out 1/4" beyond the interior wall of the track nose. I also need to strengthen the area that supports the weight of the heavy headlights. It will probably require 8 layers of 1 1/2 ounce mat to attain the correct thickness . I ordered some shorter button head bolts through Ebay.
DonnyRay
Well-Known Member
More photos of the sprint style track nose ( track nose interior ) with the 8 layered 1 1/2 ounce mat. These will strengthen the headlight mount area & raise the interior surface to match the length of the headlight mounting bolts.
I still have to fill in the large hole which was cause by removing the 4 spider's eyes.
I still have to fill in the large hole which was cause by removing the 4 spider's eyes.
DonnyRay
Well-Known Member
Now for the progress on the driver's door :
See all the black lines along the bottom of the door ? That's where i have to make some more cuts. Couldn't make the cuts today because other cars were parked too close to my project. Opened areas on the vehicles which are parked too close to mine ( fiberglass dust inside the engines etc... ). Went back home today without doing anything to my project ( except getting some photos ). I'm dreading rainy season because 1/2 of my car is under a roof & the other 1/2 isn't.
See all the black lines along the bottom of the door ? That's where i have to make some more cuts. Couldn't make the cuts today because other cars were parked too close to my project. Opened areas on the vehicles which are parked too close to mine ( fiberglass dust inside the engines etc... ). Went back home today without doing anything to my project ( except getting some photos ). I'm dreading rainy season because 1/2 of my car is under a roof & the other 1/2 isn't.
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choppinczech
Well-Known Member
It might help to mount the lights on a jig set the way you want them. And then make the bases fit the contours of the track nose.
I would definitely do it all while mounted on the chassis.
Without this jig (post #518), I couldn't have ever gotten my mirrors symmetrical.
Could you mold the light bases in as part of the track nose? And make the shells detach?
DonnyRay
Well-Known Member
I still have about a 1/2" of inward adjustment on both sides. I think i have to wire brush ( remove ) layers of old paint ( at the pivotal areas ) to free up more of my adjustment potential. If this fails then i'll try your suggestion. Thanks for the helpful tip choppinczech.
DonnyRay
Well-Known Member
More track t nose progress photos:
I used a level across the front of the headlight buckets , the bubble was in the center of the level ( both headlight buckets ). Looks like my last adjustment worked. Now i have a large adjustment gap at the rear end of the headlight buckets. That's a simple fix. Already have plans to address that problem.
I used a level across the front of the headlight buckets , the bubble was in the center of the level ( both headlight buckets ). Looks like my last adjustment worked. Now i have a large adjustment gap at the rear end of the headlight buckets. That's a simple fix. Already have plans to address that problem.
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