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My ProjecTee

I purchased a left rear Model A fender from Speedway Motors , It's supposed to arrive tomorrow 9-10-21. It's fiberglass & it's 11 3/4" wide. I'll purchase the right rear fender when i get paid in October. The fenders cost 230 dollars apiece ( ouch ! ).
 
The button head bolts were too long & i have to build up the inside area immediately behind the headlight mounts ( 1 1/2 ounce fiberglass mat ). 3 threaded studs are jutting out 1/4" beyond the interior wall of the track nose. I also need to strengthen the area that supports the weight of the heavy headlights. It will probably require 8 layers of 1 1/2 ounce mat to attain the correct thickness . I ordered some shorter button head bolts through Ebay.
 
More photos of the sprint style track nose ( track nose interior ) with the 8 layered 1 1/2 ounce mat. These will strengthen the headlight mount area & raise the interior surface to match the length of the headlight mounting bolts.DSCN1303.JPG DSCN1304.JPG DSCN1305.JPG I still have to fill in the large hole which was cause by removing the 4 spider's eyes.
 
I drilled through the 8 layers of 1 1/2 ounce mat & test fitted the headlight base. I need to add 2 or 3 more layers of 1 1/2 ounce mat.
 
Maybe sandwich a fender washer in there or a piece of sheet metal with extra holes drilled around the edges so the fiberglass has something to bite into.
 
DSCN1310.JPG DSCN1313.JPG DSCN1314.JPG DSCN1315.JPG DSCN1317.JPG More track t nose progress photos : I'm going to try to pigeon toe the front of the headlights. I've taken several measurements ( trying to find out why the left headlight doesn't look right ) measurements all look good.
 
Now for the progress on the driver's door :DSCN1318.JPG DSCN1319.JPG DSCN1320.JPG See all the black lines along the bottom of the door ? That's where i have to make some more cuts. Couldn't make the cuts today because other cars were parked too close to my project. Opened areas on the vehicles which are parked too close to mine ( fiberglass dust inside the engines etc... ). Went back home today without doing anything to my project ( except getting some photos ). I'm dreading rainy season because 1/2 of my car is under a roof & the other 1/2 isn't.
 
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I've taken several measurements ( trying to find out why the left headlight doesn't look right ) measurements all look good.

It might help to mount the lights on a jig set the way you want them. And then make the bases fit the contours of the track nose.

I would definitely do it all while mounted on the chassis.

Without this jig (post #518), I couldn't have ever gotten my mirrors symmetrical.

jig.jpeg

Could you mold the light bases in as part of the track nose? And make the shells detach?
 
I still have about a 1/2" of inward adjustment on both sides. I think i have to wire brush ( remove ) layers of old paint ( at the pivotal areas ) to free up more of my adjustment potential. If this fails then i'll try your suggestion. Thanks for the helpful tip choppinczech.
 
Track nose ( regal jumping spider's jaws ) progress :DSCN1321.JPG DSCN1322.JPG DSCN1323.JPG I used 4 layers of 2oz. fiberglass mat to build up the spider's jaws.
 
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Whoa ! See the curious little BEE ? Look close at photo # 2. Look at the right ( passenger's side ) headlight stand.
 
More track nose progress photos:DSCN1325.JPG DSCN1326.JPG DSCN1327.JPG DSCN1328.JPG On the headlight stands , you can see how much adjustment i still have at my disposal.
 
More track t nose progress photos:DSCN1329.JPG DSCN1331.JPG DSCN1332.JPG DSCN1334.JPG I used a level across the front of the headlight buckets , the bubble was in the center of the level ( both headlight buckets ). Looks like my last adjustment worked. Now i have a large adjustment gap at the rear end of the headlight buckets. That's a simple fix. Already have plans to address that problem.
 
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