My ProjecTee
- Thread starter DonnyRay
- Start date
DonnyRay
Well-Known Member
There is a slight slant in the windshield posts ( stanchions ). I've had 3 pairs of windshield posts. I've had the o.e.m replacements ( very tall ) & a pair of slanted ( short aluminum ). The o.e.m replacements have a mild slant. My hardtop fits the spirit cars deluxe body. Their deluxe body is stretched between the dashboard & the rear of the body. This is why there is an overhang past the front of the windshield. The overhang excess will be lopped off. I start glassing today ; will take photos for you & anyone else who is interested. Fyi ; if you go to spirit cars website & locate their hardtop , you will find a video regarding recommended alterations. That is what i watched before I started my modifications. Hope this helps my friend. Anyway ; more photos this evening.
I'm no fiberglass expert, but I read a lot, as I'm sure you have, about where guys sectioned bodies, doors etc. and they feather edged the cut line (also makes the "glue" line longer, which can't be bad) with rough sand paper to expose some of the glass fibers so the resin would have some thing to bite to. I'm in the process of making my body longer and plan on feathering the cut edge with a DA and hitting it with a sandblaster to expose the fibers.
CCR's tops are like that (with a visor) wonder if any one here has one or if Jerry can comment, I'm sure it's a non issue, windshield support a definite?
CCR's tops are like that (with a visor) wonder if any one here has one or if Jerry can comment, I'm sure it's a non issue, windshield support a definite?
Island Girl
Well-Known Member
Like HenrysT said, you have to scarf those joints where you're going to add if you want to maintain anywhere near the original strength..
If you want the strongest possible glass job, use epoxy resin like "West System" rather than regular polyester resin.
Should be a motherlode of fiberglass boat repair videos on YouTube, look for ones on repairing a hole to get an idea of how much to scarf.
Off hand, I'd do about 3" per side if it was my project.
Darlene
If you want the strongest possible glass job, use epoxy resin like "West System" rather than regular polyester resin.
Should be a motherlode of fiberglass boat repair videos on YouTube, look for ones on repairing a hole to get an idea of how much to scarf.
Off hand, I'd do about 3" per side if it was my project.
Darlene
DonnyRay
Well-Known Member
Great advice guys. This roof is very thick so I should be able to do what you're all suggesting. I'm going to finish what I started with the first section that is already screwed down. I have a conical shaped cutter ( Dremel accessory ) which I will use to correct my first area. I will make a V shaped groove along the outer edged of the bonded area then I will sand the area with 80 grit sand paper. after I've sanded the area I will lay some matte over the sanded area. I will use a narrow roller to work the glass resin & matte into the groove. Epoxy resin is the best & is very expensive. I am forced to use polyester resin because it's cheaper.
old round fart
Well-Known Member
Be careful mixing epoxy and polyester resins. I don’t think they play nice! Check with Spirit. They may sell you more foamcore for the middle.
Island Girl
Well-Known Member
Using epoxy over cured polyester is not an issue.
Here in the islands, where marine conditions are really challenging, about all you can buy is West System epoxy.
I can't imagine BC having any issue with it, but probably would look on it as overkill. . . . Couldn't hurt to get their input.
2old2fast
Active Member
Re. West system. This is one of dilemmas that have always bothered me . The original was made from polyester&resin, it was strong enough to be used , why does the repair/modification need to be stronger than the original material ?? Makes no sense , like " The weld is stronger than the original steel , if the original wasn't strong enough to begin with , putting a "stronger" weld means the original material will break again in another spot , on this top , why does the patch need to be stronger than the rest of it ????
Island Girl
Well-Known Member
In a nutshell, unlike a weld, the original drew a lot of its strength from the fact that it was all one lay-up, when you add a section or make a patch, you're not drawing strength from the whole. So having better adhesion and stronger material mated to a scarfed area helps to make up for the sectionalization and loss of homogeneity.
Epoxy doesn't work with some mat material, the binders in the mat, the stuff that holds it together, doesn't break down and dissolve with epoxy. The mat that is designed for epoxy use will say so.
Epoxy is more flexible than resin, you can epoxy OVER fiberglass but you shouldn't fiberglass over epoxy. I would use resin for the splice/patch then put a layer or two of epoxy with the appropriate mat material over the whole inside.
Epoxy vs Polyester Fiberglass Resin - IPP . . . YOU ASK . . . . WE ANSWER
Epoxy is more flexible than resin, you can epoxy OVER fiberglass but you shouldn't fiberglass over epoxy. I would use resin for the splice/patch then put a layer or two of epoxy with the appropriate mat material over the whole inside.
Epoxy vs Polyester Fiberglass Resin - IPP . . . YOU ASK . . . . WE ANSWER
DonnyRay
Well-Known Member
Very interesting stuff. I assume my hardtop was made with polyester resin because it's cheaper to use. The usage of polyester would keep the price down on the finished product. The last time I fiberglassed was more than 20 years ago. I was taught to clean the area that was sanded with acetone. I was told that the sanding process would cause wax to come to the surface. Acetone was used to remove the wax which was caused by sanding. Resins must have changed since then.
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
I don’t buy resin from department or hardware stores... much better luck with what I get online... fresher, better quality, and cures better. There are resins with and without wax. Finishing resin has it, laminating resin does not. I buy it without and have chemicals to cure the top coat, or featherfill works well. I bought various types and weights of cloth and matting and am generous with overlapping and layering to spread the load on repairs or splices.
