Garage Merch                Ron Pope Motorsports                California Custom Roadsters               

Mykk's BMW V8 T-bucket, version 1.5:

I angled mine slightly by just enlarging the mounting holes in the fiberglass body a little. It's not much but every little bit helps.
 

Attachments

  • Side View.jpg
    Side View.jpg
    148.6 KB · Views: 10
There isn't a truly safe location really, put the tank behind the tub its the first to get hit from a rear collision. Moon tank up front, it's the first in a front collision.

In the middle of the car, there is a bit of a buffer even if does land in your lap.
There was a guy selling tanks that fit underneath, between the frame rails... larger footprint, thin, low profile. I thought it was a interesting idea but would have to be incorporated in the design. They were a sponsor of this site for a short time, I believe. Just a FYI.
 


The matching rear wheel for the fronts are only available as a 15"x 8" at the widest. I really do like the 10" wheel with the 295's, after some research 295's do fit an 8" and are fairly common in the Muscle Car world. I'll give it a try, the Vision 148 Shift isn't as deep dished as the American Racing VN502's on Bucket #1 (and we all love deep dish wheels), however they will tuck the rear wheels in a bit and that could look cleaner. I'll run with it for now. I intentionally used a readily available wheel that could mix & match with the current American Racings on Bucket #1. The rear American Racing 15" x 10" with a 5 x 4.75" bolt pattern has been discontinued, I have one extra and can't find another. The online wheel & tire suppliers that say they have this wheel for sale are willing to take the money for it, sit on the order for a week and then say they can't find it and refund it.

The rear American Racing VN502 15" x 10" vs the Vision 148 Shift 15" x 8"

 
There are places that do custom wheels and I'm sure they could widen your rears to 10". It's done frequently by custom car builders, etc.

 
Last edited:
Shipping logistics is such a weird industry with practices that defy physics and logic. Waited two weeks for these headlight stands to come in after being shipped to either side of the country and back...twice, before landing at the destination. Once they came in I couldn't wait to fit them up and weld the mounts in place.







 
Front axle, leaf spring & wheels mock-up. Granted it's without the drivetrain weight.





I'm considering moving the leaf spring above the perch, which would require modifying the perch, adding support gussets under the perch and using beefier leaf spring U-bolts.







... I will research other examples of builders attempting similar, but in my mind it's like when someone puts the rear axle over the leaf to lower a car. Those loads are still all put into the axle U-bolts.
 
Should work fine. As you've said, the load will be carried by those U-bolts, so they need to be super strong, with maybe a "saddle" of sorts between them and the top of the spring. I have also seen some "gooseneck" perches that extend upward from the front crossmember so the spring still "hangs" from them.
 
Inspired by how the front end of Bucket #2 turned out I've decided to clean up and set up Bucket #1 similarly, including the two '32 grill top halves to make one shell. It'll be different than #2 do to space of components already mounted on #1. But I think it'll clean things up.









 
Last edited:
Gave myself some dash indicator lights using guitar amp lighted jewels. Left turn, Brights, Right turn, Power On. Green, Amber, Green, Purple (looking blue in photo)

The Purple jewel came from a bass guitar amp that was on tour with a famous 90's rock band :-)







 








Just for mock up and to make motor mount plates on the frame. It sure does look strange seeing a standard bog modern design engine sitting in there without anything special bolted to it. I plan to lower the engine assembly mounting in the frame a couple of inches and that'll line the exhaust to be a straight shot from the headers to clean the body.
 
I have PipeMax if you are interested. Also Dynomation 6. I had someone else fabricate them in SS, but the software will give you the dimensions you need so you can build them.
Below is my Tri-Y design, also known as a 3-2-1 design. It is suppose to provide a wider torgue curve than the typical 4 into I design.


FP01_HeaderDesign05_Final_01734.jpgFP03_FinishedGPHeaders_02023.jpg

FP03_FinishedGPHeaders_02018.jpg

You can find the complete build at the link below.

.
 
Last edited:
Not having much luck with this grill insert idea. The problem is ordering grills made of the material I wanted to use that are pre-fabbed for specific applications, simply because one cant order a 'sheet' of it by dimension. So I've ordered two different grills from different truck applications that I thought could be tall enough to give me the width I need for the '32 shells, to no avail. One came close, but no luck.

On bucket #1 I ran with the idea of running the grill bars horizontal, and that is a look but not the look I was going for:



On bucket #2 I did mock them up vertical, but it's still not turning out like I imagined.



I think I'll put a pin in the grill insert ideas for now, come back to it later and keep moving forward on both buckets.
 
So, Mykk . . . what's missing? Could it be that the original vertical grills were surrounded by a metal frame? Notice in my replica grill there is a chrome piece that surrounds the vertical bars. Just a thought.
 

Attachments

  • A.jpg
    A.jpg
    535.6 KB · Views: 6
  • Paint frt.jpg
    Paint frt.jpg
    496.8 KB · Views: 6
Have a sheet of stainless water jetted and polished. Send Cut Send could do it. You just have to make a cardboard template of the outside dimension.
 

     Ron Pope Motorsports                Advertise with Us!     
Back
Top