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Mykk's BMW V8 T-bucket, version 1.5:

If that single hinge doesn't work out, there are concealed ones that will work on the back of the door. I think Soss hinges would work, but if not there are plenty of others around.
 
Got the exhaust turnouts-mufflers & mufflers-headers TIG'd on:





The CCR windshield posts and frame arrived, got that mounted this morn:





The plexiglass is a placeholder for now, the plan is to use a glass windshield with a 60's vintage green tint.
 
Have you been in a T-bucket with a tinted windshield? I find the reflections to be distracting, but . . . to each his own! Your build is looking killer!
 
In the Arizona summer heat I am getting an hour or two in the early mornings before the warehouse gets thoroughly cooked. I am doing piddley, quick projects until I can invest some real wrench time.

A benefit to the plexiglass, or in this case acrylic, I can drill my own holes for the mirrors:



The 3" peep mirrors on the uprights look good, but far from practical.

 
Unless you plan to have a top, the peep mirrors should be adequate, IMHO. That's what I use with no problems. Of course I could say, I don't need no stinkin' mirrors because I'm leaving everyone behind! (LOL)
 
Hello Myyk!
I've been following along on this avidly. I saw you Version 1 last year at Watson Lake but didn't meet you. I had just got mine and hoped to talk. Then found your youtube and your posts here. Love the effort you put into each detail.
 
A photo similar to that one was on the cover of the Courier last Friday, promoting this years Watson Lake show. I was unfortunately out of town for the car show this year. Thanks for posting that pic. I'm sure we'd likely still be in that exact spot talking Tbuckets a year later.

 
Not accomplishing much in recent weeks. The Arizona heat, as well as life responsibilities have been keeping me out of the warehouse lately. It's beginning to cool down in the mornings again so I just started going in for a couple of hours.

A mexican blanket as a seat cover on the plain jane bench seat lightens the mood on the entire build:





I found a great deal on a couple sets of Willwood D52 calipers. However my brackets are for the small 'metric' gm caliper. I was having trouble finding the correct bracket for the 28-48 spindles and D52 calipers with the offset to match this bearing adapter. Also the cast caliper brackets look way better than the cut plate brackets. So I opt'd to modify my existing brackets:





 
Getting the Wilwood D52's to work on the rear will be quite the feat. I'm thinking of separating the caliper halves and removing 22mm of material from one half and bolting back together. I'll also need to cut pockets out of the polished diff cover and TIG them back together from the inside of the cover. I think the outcome will be worth it if I can pull it off.



 
Is there Brembo or Ferarri caliper that allows pads to be swapped without caliper removal? I seem to remember this being a thing in endurance racing.
It still requires careful inspection during servicing of course, but could avoid more bolt threading in the 3rd member and would provide a more 'mechanical' and 'light' look.

EDIT: I didn't mean to second guess you and they do match the fronts. Just offering an alternative!
 
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Put mine on the inside. Disk are racing version used on E Types and much thicker than standard ones.
cali n brackets.jpgrear brakes 2015 july (24) (2015_11_13 11_07_31 UTC) (Copy) (2021_01_12 08_56_11 UTC).JPGrear brakes 2015 july (29) (2015_11_13 11_07_31 UTC) (Copy) (2021_01_12 08_56_11 UTC).JPGview from beneath.jpgrear brakes 2015 july (2) (2015_11_13 11_07_31 UTC) (Copy) (2021_01_12 08_56_11 UTC).JPG

happy to remove pics if it spoils your thread
G
 
Found a different kind of Dana 44 diff cover that will allow for some more clearance with the rear mounted calipers:



I even think the style of the diff cover fits the build a bit more too

Back on Bucket #1. It has developed a couple of issues.

A couple of electrical gremlins popped up. One in the form of intermittent crank trigger signal loss, the other a random cylinder misfire that I could physically change by moving wires.

Also, both valve covers were dripping a consistent steam of oil onto the headers, I figured while the valve covers were off again I can dial in some new cam timings to test.















I've been wanting to get the fuse block, relays and wiring out from the under the dash for a while now. The car has several years worth of iterations, changes & tinkering of EFI components, wiring, lighting and electrical changes. It's time for a clean up, and I know I can make the wiring cleaner and simpler this time around.

The EFI controller, relay/fusebox and a constant duty solenoid as a main relay will all be mounted on the lower section of the steering mount arm off the frame and not under the dash anymore. The gauges and switches mounted in the body will be able to disconnect via deutsch connectors.

I may take this opportunity to install the Pi-Dash and touch screen into build #1 that I was going to use in build #2
 

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