overheating problem

[oino]

Fast said it sounds like excess getting dumped in some how from the T.B..
So I have both my tach gauge and the fast hand held connected on the same tach output wire.
They said I could be getting a bad reading from splitting the signal or feed back from the gauge. Try it with the tach wire removed from the gauge.
I'll try that when I get home.

 

[Keeper]

Well at least the leaks are fixed!

That vacuum reading looks good, mine flutters a bit more then that, though I think I have a little bigger cam.

 

[Mike]

When you say it is backfiring on the driver's side, I assume you mean it is backfiring through the exhaust?

You say when you stab it, it backfires. Does it backfire once when you stab it, or does it backfire repeatedly? If it backfires repeatedly, does it stop when engine RPM stabilizes? Does it seem to be one hole causing the backfire, or is that entire bank causing you problems? You are going to have to remember, we are not there to witness things you are not fully explaining to us. And it gets a bit painful, when someone has to milk out every last detail. If something is happening, you are the only one witnessing it happen, so you also need to be descriptive about everything. For instance, you were not setting lifter pre-load correctly, but you were reassuring everyone you had everything set correctly.

It sounds like you have at least one unhappy hole on that side of the motor. Either you are running excessively lean, or you are a bit too fat. If a motor is real lean, there will not be sufficient fuel to support combustion, so the existing fuel burns up in the exhaust. Obviously, if it is too fat, then you are passing unburned fuel to the exhaust. I've seen motors set up a bit too fat with header gasket leaks causing exhaust backfires.

With all the starting and idle time you have on the plugs, there is no hope of ever reading color on the insulator, so that is out. Are the plug shells cad-plated? If so, take a look at the heat transfer on the threads. How many threads are heat-colored? Do all the plugs on the driver side exhibit the same heat-coloring on the shells?

 

[one finger john]

Let's see here, the EFI system is a TBI (Throttle Body Injection ) system that is installed on a Dual Plane manifold. Process of elimination will tell you which half of the throttle body is misfiring or running lean. I agree with Mike about gas fouled spark plugs needing to be replaced. Also which exhaust collector is the oxygen sensor mounted or are you running a dual sensor set up? It might make a difference. Personally I would have run a single plane manifold if I was running a single sensor. Dual plane, two oxygen sensors (because essentially, the manifold is DIVIDED into two separate manifolds). If you think about it, because you do have both a TBI and a dual plane set up, isolating a lean misfire in ONE cylinder should be easy. You only have FOUR cylinders to worry about, one of which is misbehaving. If the other three of the cylinders on that HALF of the manifold run O.K. then it CAN NOT be the single injector that supplies that HALF of the manifold. You DO NOT have a sequential injector system that has a single injector for each cylinder, you have a throttle body system. That is where the injector is - in the throttle body. Supplying four cylinders for HALF of a dual plane manifold.

Now to address what Mike said and what I have said earlier in the thread. GETTING INFORMATION FROM YOU IS LIKE PULLING TEETH, VERY PAINFUL! YOU PICK AND CHOOSE WHICH QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS YOU WILL ANSWER TO SUIT YOUR MOOD AND APPARENTLY, TO SAVE FACE WHEN YOU HAVE F ED UP. TAKE YOUR INCOMPLETE ANSWERS OVER TO THE YELLOW BULLET SITE AND SEE HOW LONG YOU WOULD LAST WASTING OTHER PEOPLE'S TIME WITH INCOMPLETE, MISLEADING QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS. FROM THE GIT GO, IF YOU DID NOT SUPPLY ALL PERTINENT INFORMATION IN THE FIRST POST, YOU WOULD HAVE BEEN TOLD AS MUCH AND IF YOU DID NOT SUPPLY ALL THE INFO IN YOUR NEXT POSTING, YOU WOULD HAVE BEEN IGNORED. AT TIMES THIS SITE IS TOO NICE AND ACCOMMODATING. WHICH IS AS IT SHOUD BE. I FEEL THAT YOU ARE TAKING ADVANTAGE OF THE MEMBERS HERE.

90% of all fuel problems are in the ignition. BTW, did you strip the balancer bolt in an attempt to mount the crank trigger?

John

 

[one finger john]

Got a little irate in my post. I apologize for the tone, but not the intent. Also, a dual plane manifold can operate with a single oxygen sensor because half of a dual plane manifold supplies two cylinders in each bank of an engine. A sequential system would be better suited to dual sensors.

Again, my apologies.

 

[oino]

K, Don't think this thing can be fixed. The oil leaks are back.

Here is a vid of what it's doing when I start it and run it.
This time I got fire out of the exhaust. Wish I got that on film.

 

[RPM]

It might not run good, but it sure is pretty.

 

[Screaming Metal]

Well, We've been thru this, that and the other, heads were out, did you let the machinist look at the intake manifold? Started leaking oil agian? This is the 4th time, and its still leaking, and is still backfiring.
My suggestion is, at this point would be look up your nearest, old school HotRod Shop or Speed Shop and let them deal with these issues.
Since you have throttle Body Injection, theres something wrong with that cylinder, whether it be in the distr. cap, plug wires, cam lobe, porous intake runner, the magic spell cast upon that cylinder, with the right knowledge it can be corrected....

 

[Mike]

Got a little irate in my post. I apologize for the tone, but not the intent.

I appreciate that you apologized, but then again, you were only saying what the rest of us have been thinking. For the last 5 weeks, no less.

People cannot diagnose and fix their own problems (a large percentage of which are usually self-inflicted), so they want others to 'tune by telephone'. And that process can be frustrating enough, even when all of the details about the problem are provided. But when it is expected that everyone will be tripping over themselves to provide timely, long-distance tuning information, only after being reduced to milking out every last detail, I run right out of patience.

oino, I simply cannot be bothered to read back through all 228 posts, submitted over the last 5 weeks, to remind myself of who manufactured this EFI system. I think I remember you posting something rather tortured about having called them for help, but I think that is where you need to direct your queries. Surely, there is a way you can download your tuning map and a diagnostics file from your system and send it to them for their help. Those files will give them the information they require, in order to help you sort out this train wreck.

Without trying to sound overly harsh about things, you are incapable of tracing down something so simple as an oil leak, yet you are trying to tune an aftermarket EFI system?!? You are incapable of reading a vacuum gauge, without posting a video of it. You are also incapable of answering scores of direct questions, put to you by several members of this site, who have more than generously tried to offer their assistance. How many times have people asked you to clean the block and heads, so you can see where the oil is leaking? Did you ever answer my question about how you were ventilating the crankcase? Not until you posted this latest video. Did you bother to answer the questions I posed to you about spark plug conditions? I want you to stop flailing about and consider that not a single one of us has posed a question for no reason at all. We asked for the bloody information, in order to learn more about what is happening. But as John so accurately put it, trying to wring information out of you is like pulling teeth. This stuff is not rocket science, but there is an expectation that one will possess some basic mechanical ability, as well as the ability to think in a linear fashion.

For the love of Pete, use your head! Is an engine meant to spit flame out the exhaust? Yes? No? If an engine spits flame out the exhaust, what could possibly cause that? Gee, do you think you may have a quantity of unburned fuel making it into the exhaust? See how incredibly simple this process can be?

Part of the purchase price on that EFI unit was to help cover the manufacturer's tech support expenses, so I strongly urge you to avail yourself of those services.

 

[one finger john]

Timed out. Listened to last video. Sounds like spark scatter. Get conventional distributor cap (NAPA).
Crap caps can miss/cross fire (cheap Chi-Com junk?) Check distributor advance operation (nothing hanging up). Make sure rotor is pointing @ no. 1 exactly @ TDC firing (proper rotor phasing). Start car with timing @ o* advance (has balancer ring slipped or moved). Then set 12-14* BTDC with good light. Bet you wished you had the crank trigger set up. EFI would do all the thinking.

John

 

[oino]

Listened to last video. Sounds like spark scatter. Get conventional distributor cap (NAPA). Crab caps can cross fire. Make sure rotor is pointing exactly @ no. 1, @ TDC firing.

Thank you. I didn't think of that. Could it be because of the multi. spark the MSD box put out?

I crank trigger would be nice.

 

[one finger john]

In a way, yes. If the cap is of foreign manufacture and not very good quality (Chinese, Tai wan, Tibet, India, Pakistan, Bolivia, Canadian [Ha, HA, Ha,]) then there is the possibility the cap could be overpowered electrically.
Interesting slip of the pen. I meant "crab cap", not crap cap. Although crap cap is probably apropos.
It runs too nicely (less the miss fire). Crab caps look nice, redirecting the spark terminals, but they can internally short or misdirect the spark. I would imagine it could misfire especially with a stronger ignition (MSD).
Just do as I said. Phase the rotor (make sure the rotor is a quality piece, that it does not have any carbon tracking, cracks or anything), change the plugs, time the engine. Go to NAPA and get a quality cap. If you are on a budget, get a "known good" conventional cap and try that.
As for the manifold STILL having a vacuum leak, if you pull the manifold, see the IMPRESSION the manifold has left on the gaskets to determine where the leak is and if it is indeed the manifold. New manifold really should not be off. In a perfect world you shouldn't need filler type gasket sealer. Shoot for living in a perfect world. Also try Gasket Cinch and use it sparingly. Make cork end gaskets and Gasket Cinch them in with just a bit of sealer goo on the ends

90% of all carburetor problems are in the ignition system.

John

P.S. Do exactly as I have suggested. Stop Effing around. It is apparent you don't take instructions very well.

 

[oino]

Ok, Just tried 2 things. I swapped the cap. Still had my old one on the shelf, and I disconnected and plugged the pcv line going to the tb and the vacuum line from the trans.
No more back fire, RUNS GREAT NOW.
Going to figure out what one thing fixed it, and still need to find that oil leak. Thinking that oil might be from the valve covers. Need that die stuff.

Getting close.

 

[oino]

.

pcv and trans vac. reconnected.

John, You the man. The cap was it. Cross fire in the cap. BACK FIRE GONE.
Thank you.
Thank you to everyone.
Other then the oil problem I'll see about that die to fix that. I'm going to get things back togother so I can text drive it. WOO HOO.

 

[one finger john]

You don't need dye, you need to THINK. Also if you are smoking blunts and drinking beers while working on the bucket....DON'T smoke dope and drink beers while working on the bucket.

 

[oino]

You don't need dye, you need to THINK. Also if you are smoking blunts and drinking beers while working on the bucket....DON'T smoke dope and drink beers while working on the bucket.

Thanks for the correction on spelling dye.
I'm using them cheap valve over gaskets from speedway. Thats way I'm thinking the valve covers.
I don't drink or do dupe. Can't afford the beer or dope with all my cash tied up in my car.

 

[Mike]

You don't need dye, you need to THINK.

 

[2old2fast]

Well....IMAGINE THAT !!
dave

 

[Screaming Metal]

-------It almost sounds like from the symptoms, spark scatter,-------

This was back on page 6....

Save the beer for the Summer after you get thru working on the Bucket....perfect time for a cold one, IF, you still aren't mechanicin' or Drivin'....

 

[Mike]

This was back on page 6....

Yes, it was posted in Post #120, back on 6 September. And went completely ignored. For another 100+ posts and the lion's share of an entire month.

When people are ignoring suggestions and questions, the rest of us have no idea of knowing whether or not the supplied information has been considered, or not. Which causes these help threads to drag on, well beyond everyone's frustration level.

Effective immediately, we are going to start using some structured guidelines for this forum. If people cannot ask for help without providing details on their situation, too bad about them. If people cannot take advice on board and report back on their findings, too bad about them. If people cannot provide answers to question put to them, then too bad about them. I know, that sounds cruel, harsh and mean-spirited, but enough is enough. If people cannot comply by some very simple guidelines in asking for free help, then let them go pay for professional assistance.

There is really no reason a help thread should ever go on beyond two pages, if everyone is holding up their end of the stick. When they stretch beyond that point, then it starts getting painful to go back and ferret out details, which only adds to the frustration. On the part of everyone involved.