Pride Cometh Before the Fall

[deckofficer]

Hi to all on the forum,

I'm writing this so that others do not compound bad judgement like I did this weekend. If your ride looses (2) cylinders, heed the vibration, suck up the wounded pride and accept the offer of the chase vehicle to trailer your ride. I kept going and 25 miles after losing two jugs the vibration rattled out my hairpin bolt (I know, no safety nut) it was dragging on the freeway just waiting to catch and flip me. Again the trailer was offered to me, and my stupid pride just had me reattach the hairpin with a smaller bolt, nut and washer. The final drama was about 80 miles after I lost the hairpin to vibration, my steerimg box assy completly backed out of the box and lost steering. Still able to get home but I plead with the rest of you, don't push on with a ride that is vibrating. I didn't even consider all the stuff that is truly safety related that can get loose in no time.

 

[Northstar T]

Did April 1st roll around again already?? or did Ted put a curse on you for some reason? cause I know you wouldn't do those things if there wasn't some other explanation.

Russ

 

[Gerry]

Hi to all on the forum,

I'm writing this so that others do not compound bad judgement like I did this weekend. If your ride looses (2) cylinders, heed the vibration, suck up the wounded pride and accept the offer of the chase vehicle to trailer your ride. I kept going and 25 miles after losing two jugs the vibration rattled out my hairpin bolt (I know, no safety nut) it was dragging on the freeway just waiting to catch and flip me. Again the trailer was offered to me, and my stupid pride just had me reattach the hairpin with a smaller bolt, nut and washer. The final drama was about 80 miles after I lost the hairpin to vibration, my steerimg box assy completly backed out of the box and lost steering. Still able to get home but I plead with the rest of you, don't push on with a ride that is vibrating. I didn't even consider all the stuff that is truly safety related that can get loose in no time.

Happy you made it with no injury, it could have cost you a lot more than some broken parts. I also think about your previous post when you talk about speeds of over 120 mph and just thank heaven it did nt happen on one of those heavy footed runs.

 

[deckofficer]

Russ and Gerry,

No spell from Ted, like I said "stupid pride" as I did not want to be new to the Fun Run and need to be trailered. The loss of 2 jugs ended any spirited driving and everything that happened after that was while I was limping it home and now the short drive on Monday to the local speed shop.

 

[Hotrod46]

Yea, I'm glad you made it home OK too.

While you have the engine out for replacement, you might want to go over the whole car with a fine toothed comb looking for other safety issues.

Mike

 

[deckofficer]

Thanks Mike,

You have always been very helpful here on the forum and in another post I stated those SAME words ".... a fine tooth comb". We are both showing our age with old quotes like that.

 

[deckofficer]

My sweet little M20 4-speed probably will have issues in the future with the torque I plan on having for the new stroker motor so might be putting in a new 6 speed, would be cheaper in the long run to do it during the engine swap out. If memory serves, the M20 MIGHT tolerate up to 400 lb/ft, I'm planning on the new motor to have at least 475 lb/ft and a good M20 always fetches more money than one that was brutelized.

 

[Keeper]

ouch that looks bad. Glad you made it alright.

And yeah Pride sure does make us do some stupid things!

 

[putz]

Glad you made it home OK. Vibration can be nasty I used to work on a shaker in a concrete plant had to check it over every day.

 

[butch27]

I'm not the smartest guy here but from my racing days I try to safety wire all steering and suspension parts, would have NEVER thought of that!

 

[one finger john]

I think you are lucky and that's it. On your rebuild, think ALUMINUM BLOCK. As far as what Ted said about the T needing a little pizzaz ,,, chrome. Chrome the radius rods (then safety wire all connections). Maybe a chrome axle.

John

 

[deckofficer]

John,



I know I was lucky. As far as engine selection, I was willing to spend $14,500.00 for a supercharged LS aluminum engine but had it measured and won't fit. Have to stay with a small block. The best price for a 427 small block is from Ultra Street, dyno's at 525 hp, 550 lb.ft for $8795.00. Any feedback from you guys on Ultra Street? I'll go ahead and pull the M20 4 speed which would not like that amount of torque and put either a 5 or 6-speed rated at 600lb/ft behind that engine. I'm currently in SoCal, so a local engine builder should be able to match those numbers at close to that price.Taking the T into the local speed shop in Corona tomorrow.

 

[Youngster]

I have seen the spanner nut on a 'vair box back of more than once before. The problem has been using a drift to tighten it on re-assembly. Guys take the time to find or make a wrench to fit this nut. I made mine out of a slice of 4" 1/4" wall pipe with a pin and handle added,
15 to 20 minute job.

Ron

 

[Telman2]

If you're building your car for the strip then it should be a rocket but for the cruising on the street 525 hp in a bucket is overkill, you're going to have a hell of a time trying to get it to hook up at any speed.

I built a 383 last winter that produced 452 hp & 451 ft. lbs torque on the dyno. That led to replacing the rear end, redoing my suspension system and bigger tires so that I could use that HP. This is the 4th and last engine in my bucket, I originally built it in 67 with a warmed over 265, then a 350hp 327, and a 400 hp 350. I don't know why I built the 383 other then I always wanted one and at 67 I know I won't be building any more engines.

I could be mistaken but from your posts I get the impression that you don't do your own work, you farm that out. Seriously, unless you enjoy tinkering with your engine and car I think you'd get more enjoyment out of it if you went with a little more conservative and dependable engine.

If my son or grandson didn't respect their equipment and ignored the message their car was sending them they'd be in the emergency room getting my boot removed from their butts.

I apologize in advance if you find any of this is offensive, it wasn't intended to be, it's just one old farts opinion.

 

[one finger john]

John,



I know I was lucky. As far as engine selection, I was willing to spend $14,500.00 for a supercharged LS aluminum engine but had it measured and won't fit. Have to stay with a small block. The best price for a 427 small block is from Ultra Street, dyno's at 525 hp, 550 lb.ft for $8795.00. Any feedback from you guys on Ultra Street? I'll go ahead and pull the M20 4 speed which would not like that amount of torque and put either a 5 or 6-speed rated at 600lb/ft behind that engine. I'm currently in SoCal, so a local engine builder should be able to match those numbers at close to that price.Taking the T into the local speed shop in Corona tomorrow.

Hi guy, I meant aluminum block for a small block chevy. Bill Mitchel produces them (and complete engines) and others do also. Google aluminum blocks, see what comes up.

John

 

[deckofficer]

Telman2 and the others,

I respect your input and yes Telman2, I no longer wrench on my cars too much. I have given this project a lot of thought and replacing the transnission to handle the torque would not be too painful because I would like an overdrive gear. What would be the least expensive and most conservative would go with a 383 built for numbers that won't kill my M20 4 speed, and have the torque and hp come in at a low of rpm as possible. The lower output will allow other components to last and allow me to short shift and still have a car that will pull strong below 2000 rpm. If I don't want to pay for massive peak numbers, I at least want the conservative numbers at the lowest possible rpm.

 

[Gerry]

If you're building your car for the strip then it should be a rocket but for the cruising on the street 525 hp in a bucket is overkill, you're going to have a hell of a time trying to get it to hook up at any speed.

I built a 383 last winter that produced 452 hp & 451 ft. lbs torque on the dyno. That led to replacing the rear end, redoing my suspension system and bigger tires so that I could use that HP. This is the 4th and last engine in my bucket, I originally built it in 67 with a warmed over 265, then a 350hp 327, and a 400 hp 350. I don't know why I built the 383 other then I always wanted one and at 67 I know I won't be building any more engines.

I could be mistaken but from your posts I get the impression that you don't do your own work, you farm that out. Seriously, unless you enjoy tinkering with your engine and car I think you'd get more enjoyment out of it if you went with a little more conservative and dependable engine.

If my son or grandson didn't respect their equipment and ignored the message their car was sending them they'd be in the emergency room getting my boot removed from their butts.

I apologize in advance if you find any of this is offensive, it wasn't intended to be, it's just one old farts opinion.

For what its worth I agree. I got hold of a Topolino comp altered and took ALL my street racing thing out in that. 5 Point harness, inboard fire extinguisher, lots of safety gear and the emergency services only a 1/4 mile away at worst. My T will cruise with an occasional BLAT.
I always remember there are other people on the road many of which have kids in the car. Heroics should be saved for the strip NOT. the street.
I hope I have nt offended you and If I have then apologies. I have driven many 'quick' cars and can only remember one that I would take my wife out in!!!!!
Gerry

 

[Northstar T]

Not dirrected at anyone in particular, but have you noticed that the pedal on the right is proportional?? "I didn't have enough traction" and "it kept breaking transmissions" can all be attributed to how that power is applied.
just food for thought :wall:

Russ

 

[ruggs]

Not dirrected at anyone in particular, but have you noticed that the pedal on the right is proportional?? "I didn't have enough traction" and "it kept breaking transmissions" can all be attributed to how that power is applied.
just food for thought :wall:

Russ

NT, I've built alot of Jet boats for people and I have always told them that it variable speed, I think it's the same thing your talking about...........Ron

 

[Hotrod46]

I know I talked about the 427 SB (I like spending other people's money ), but you need to find out how hard that engine will be to cool. That track nose isn't going to pass a lot of air. It may work fine for the egine you have, but fail on the big engine. More HP is going to mean more heat to do something with.

If you want a 427, go for it. I'm not going to tell you not to. As has been said, the right pedal controls everything. In the world of my pocketbook, a 383 would be a very good torque motor for a T. Lot's of low end and probably a lot easier to cool than the 427. A long runner EFI, like the old Tuned Port units will put a big bulge in the low and midrange torque curve (that's what they were designed for, but they run out of breath quick). Build it on a late model roller cam block with about 10 to 1 CR. Stay conservative with the cam timing, no more than about 218 @ .050 on the intake. Balance it well and throw on a good set of aluminum heads and I think you will have a great engine.

I would run the 5 speed. It's cheaper and with the light weight car and fat torque band, you won't need the other gear.

Mike