Im thinking of building a long wheel base car about 120 in' verses the 101 in' . I would like to no what everyone thinks about this. I have not made up my mind yet to start my frame. Then what size steel 2 x 3 or 1 1/2 x 3 for frame (Motor BBC). I have seen the frame plans for the 101 in' here on the forum and don't no if that is really what i won't . Let you guys shed some light on this. Thanks
Pros and cons short wheel base verses long wheel base
- Thread starter Dino
- Start date
ChuckJowett
Member
longer wheelbase will ride a bit smoother - not much when you're pretty much sitting on the rear axle though. Definitely want to go with 2x3 not 1 1/2. The extra length will want to flex more so you want the extra width and possibly thicker wall as well especially with a BBC. There's a lot of torque to handle. Buckets are all about the look and its up to you as to how you want it to look. Longer wheelbase will be different than what we're used to. Some will like it some won't. You'll definitely want to do some mock-ups to get the look/proportions that appeals to you.
All true. I have a 114" wheelbase with 2 X 3, 3/16 wall frame rails. It is a little heavier but also a little better ride than my 104" wheel base car with the same suspension. The longer wheel base will mean that your oil pan or trans pan will come closer to the ground when going up ramps or in other similar situations.
I think Jim's (EX JUNK) car has perfect proportions. No other car is quite like it. It's a bit longer than most, but not as stretched looking as something like a Spirit '27T.
EX JUNK
Moderator
Perhaps, because I have 6 cross members and most importantly a K member, my frame does not flex or twist as a straight ladder type frame. That is why I can use 1 1/2" x 3" tubing. I chose that because I felt that the 2" wide was out of proportion to the proportions of the car.
Jim
Jim
old round fart
Well-Known Member
I can talk about long wheelbases. Mine was 144" and rode like a limo! Running with 20 percent overdrive on the blower, you could stand on it from a dead stop with hands off the wheel! The frame was 2 1/2 " 4130 with 1/4" wall. I sure do miss that car!
Thanks guys for the input your giving. Jim and Ron you both hit it out of the ball park on your rides. Ron i have just open the box to see the new body you sent me today. looks good. Ron with the body and the 20 in' bed that i have ,what would it look like with 125 in' wheel base. Would it just be longer in front of radiator ? . I no that you made the custom bed on yours . Is the rear end back farther then a normal t bucket. Sorry about lots of questions . More to come for sure . Thanks Dean
I can't type that much. Call me tomorrow and I'll talk to you as long as you want.
donsrods
Member
Here is one thing that is a negative that should be mentioned. I do not like 3 inch tubing on anything but a light T bucket type car, and if you stretch out the wheelbase and put a big engine and trans in it you run the risk of the frame actually sagging in the middle. You would be amazed how much you can bend a piece of 2 x 3 x 3/16 wall tubing by taking a long piece of it and putting some weight in the middle.
When my Son was first getting into hot rods (he had previously been into Cal Look VW's and bagged S10 trucks) he built a frame for his model a sedan. He made it from 2 x 3 x 3/16 tubing and it had a longish wb and a 455 Olds motor. He had the frame all done and had started on the bodywork and noticed the doors were not opening well, they were sticking. Come to find out the actual steel tubing was bending down in the middle just enough to deform the body. He took a sawzall and cut it all up and started over, this time with rails he had bent up to be 4.5 inches high, and boxed. That one will never sag.
Here is a picture of the frame that sagged before it got turned into the worlds most expensive motor stand.
Don
When my Son was first getting into hot rods (he had previously been into Cal Look VW's and bagged S10 trucks) he built a frame for his model a sedan. He made it from 2 x 3 x 3/16 tubing and it had a longish wb and a 455 Olds motor. He had the frame all done and had started on the bodywork and noticed the doors were not opening well, they were sticking. Come to find out the actual steel tubing was bending down in the middle just enough to deform the body. He took a sawzall and cut it all up and started over, this time with rails he had bent up to be 4.5 inches high, and boxed. That one will never sag.
Here is a picture of the frame that sagged before it got turned into the worlds most expensive motor stand.
Don
Thanks Don for the info and i will con sender that . Maybe 1/4 wall will work to handle bbc ? Potvinguy that is the look that I'm looking to achieve with my car. Just walk in the door from work and i need to call RPM to make a plan on how to achieve this look with my motor. Ron if you see this i will try to call tomorrow . Its 7pm here ,has to be late there
PotvinGuy, is your body a CCR stretch? Did you build the frame yourself?
Yep, good eye, CCR stretch. We did build the frame. It may cost more, but you get it just the way you want it without hacking up some off-the-shelf frame.
I've run this car with a blower, carb and scoop on top and it looks great, but this is the closest to a profile pic I can find.
Something no one has mentioned yet: with a short wheelbase, steering box and headers often try to occupy the same space, and the steering box ends up too far rearward, with a column that's almost (or even literally) vertical. A longer wheelbase should give you more options for avoiding that--assuming it matters to you (it would to me).
Rack and Pinion eliminates the steering box...and it works for any wheelbase. Full disclosure: I am a lobbyist for the R&P industry. Actually, the lobbyist...small industry.
I shamelessly take every opportunity to show my front end. And my car's, too.
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