Rear suspension

[olguy]

Hi guys,
Can anyone help me identify what I have for rear radius rods? They look like a split wishbone, but they are pretty long (about 48"). The are attached by the backing plate bolts on what has been identified as a 1957-1967 8.75", 10 bolt, no rear cover GM rear end. They don't look like they were modified to fit the rear axle bolt pattern??? Did early Fords use wishbones for both the front and the rear?

Thanks,
Olguy

 

[Ted Brown]

Need a picture... ???

 

[Ted Brown]

One thing is for sure, if it is the only thing holding that rear end from wrapping up, I am afraid the leverage is to the rear end, not the radius rods... no hard starts till you change it...

 

[Youngster]

Uo untill '48 Ford used awishbone on the front axle. On the rear they used a pair of bars to help keep the rear housingin alignment. However the torque tube was the major stabilizer. The later Ford rear as you have probably had parallel springs.

Ron

 

[olguy]

Uo untill '48 Ford used awishbone on the front axle. On the rear they used a pair of bars to help keep the rear housingin alignment. However the torque tube was the major stabilizer. The later Ford rear as you have probably had parallel springs.

Ron

Hi Ron,
Thanks for the insight. I'd sure like to attach some pics that I took of the setup, but I can't seem to get them to load. The best I can describe the bars is that they are tapered, about 4' long and have welded-on internally threaded ends into which tie rod ends have been screwed. I was told that the rear end is a '57 chevy. It has the original pads for leaf springs. The bolt pattern is Gm 5 on 4 3/4. The rods fit the bolt pattern for the backing plates and don't appear to have been altered. My bucket has a 305 and th200 trans so it's not likely to tear the rear out of it..besides, I'm way past tearing up the streets...just want to cruise along on a sunny day..
Thanks for your input,
Tony

 

[ruggs]

Hi Ron,
Thanks for the insight. I'd sure like to attach some pics that I took of the setup, but I can't seem to get them to load. The best I can describe the bars is that they are tapered, about 4' long and have welded-on internally threaded ends into which tie rod ends have been screwed. I was told that the rear end is a '57 chevy. It has the original pads for leaf springs. The bolt pattern is Gm 5 on 4 3/4. The rods fit the bolt pattern for the backing plates and don't appear to have been altered. My bucket has a 305 and th200 trans so it's not likely to tear the rear out of it..besides, I'm way past tearing up the streets...just want to cruise along on a sunny day..
Thanks for your input,
Tony

olguy,
If you can e-mail them to me I'll post them for you. You can find my e-mail in my profile or send me a PM.....Ron(ruggs)

 

[butch27]

I'm betting '36 Ford.

 

[Ted Brown]

36 Ford would not fit that backing plate bolt pattern, it was a lot stronger and wider at the bolt mounting points and had a 3/8 or 1/2 inch plate in the center of the two ears at each end, if I remember right... The one's he is talking about did bolt up to the backing plates in a stock later ford rear and were not made to hold that much up lift...

 

[Youngster]

The '35-'36 bones where bolted to the axle bells a few inches inboard of the backing plates. This was done because the spring hanger was at the end of the bone. In '37 Ford went back to using the lower 2 bolts in the backing plate as the attachment point. The later bones can be used but they don't do well in higher hp situations. If you still want to use them, add a traction link parallel to the drive shaft and as close to the same length as the distance between the axle and the forward end of the bone where it mounts to the frame. This in effect replaces the torque tube from the eary Ford design.

Ron

 

[ruggs]

Pictures from olguy

 

[ruggs]

Tony,
I think I see a problem with the rear spring shackles but, that would probably best be addressed by youngster or Ted. Also, I think they are going to want a picture of the rear bar attachment to the backing plates....Ron(ruggs)

 

[Ted Brown]

For sure need to shorten the main leaf of that model A spring, it is the same as solid right now, and unsafe in a bump where the chassis might want to rise/lift... and it is hard to say how much to cut off, unless it is not touching the hanger now, but very close to it, in that case, use shorter shackles and re-roll the eyes about 1 1/2" each side... That is what I would do... and the later type control arms do not have very strong mounting ends, if they were replaced with 3/8 or 1/2: plate, it would be a lot better, if you want to keep it bolted where it is now... a good pic of that whole mounting setup would be a lot better, to try and fix it for you. : )

 

[Youngster]

The ones are from a '37 to '48 with tir rod stubs welded in the end, very typical of early rod building. As I said in my earlyer post, this can be used but a 3rd bar should be added parallel to the drive shaft and the same lenght as the existing bones.

As Ted says that spring really needs attention. If the 'eyes' in the spring aren't worn to an oval, you should be able to reuse it. The hanger and shackles need to be replaced. I've never been a fan of he spring mounted over the rear housing and after checking the Speedway catalog I find Speedy dosen't offer that hanger anymore Maybe RPM could help you there. Just remember to mount the eyes in the hanger 46 1/2" apart.A set of 2 1/4" shackles from Speedway will cure the long straps on your current shackles.

My suggestion would be to 86 the A spring and the bones and add a set of hairpins, coilovers and a swaybar. JMHO

Ron

 

[olguy]

The ones are from a '37 to '48 with tir rod stubs welded in the end, very typical of early rod building. As I said in my earlyer post, this can be used but a 3rd bar should be added parallel to the drive shaft and the same lenght as the existing bones.

As Ted says that spring really needs attention. If the 'eyes' in the spring aren't worn to an oval, you should be able to reuse it. The hanger and shackles need to be replaced. I've never been a fan of he spring mounted over the rear housing and after checking the Speedway catalog I find Speedy dosen't offer that hanger anymore Maybe RPM could help you there. Just remember to mount the eyes in the hanger 46 1/2" apart.A set of 2 1/4" shackles from Speedway will cure the long straps on your current shackles.

My suggestion would be to 86 the A spring and the bones and add a set of hairpins, coilovers and a swaybar. JMHO

Ron

 

[olguy]

Hi guys,
Thanks for your responses...I think I like the looks of the rear bars and would like to add an additional bar per ted's suggestion, and have the bars reinforced at the mounting and chromed.

 

[Youngster]

Take a look at the welds on those bars. I guarantee you will find pin holes in them. If you still want to use them, remove ALL the weld even where the tube meets the forged end and reweld them.

Ron

 

[olguy]

For sure need to shorten the main leaf of that model A spring, it is the same as solid right now, and unsafe in a bump where the chassis might want to rise/lift... and it is hard to say how much to cut off, unless it is not touching the hanger now, but very close to it, in that case, use shorter shackles and re-roll the eyes about 1 1/2" each side... That is what I would do... and the later type control arms do not have very strong mounting ends, if they were replaced with 3/8 or 1/2: plate, it would be a lot better, if you want to keep it bolted where it is now... a good pic of that whole mounting setup would be a lot better, to try and fix it for you. : )

Thanks for catching the potentially dangerous spring condition..I'm thinking of ordering Speedways medium arch spring which is 38" eye to eye. The welded-on spring mounts are 44 1/4"
center to center. My shackles are 2 3/4 " bolt to bolt. I'll have to stretch the spring 3/4" to bolt all together. When I put the body/frame weight back on it, I'm hoping the shackles will hang about right for adequate movement. Think I'll be O.K?
Thanks,
Tony

 

[Youngster]

That should work ok. When you get the spring, put some good clamps on it and carefully remove the center bolt. Replace it with a long bolt or all-thread then slowly release the clamps. This will make it easier to install the main leaf. Assembele the spring with the all-thread, clamp it and replace the center bolt. I would suggest new shackles too.

Ron

 

[olguy]

That should work ok. When you get the spring, put some good clamps on it and carefully remove the center bolt. Replace it with a long bolt or all-thread then slowly release the clamps. This will make it easier to install the main leaf. Assembele the spring with the all-thread, clamp it and replace the center bolt. I would suggest new shackles too.

Ron

Thanks Ron,

I've ordered the spring and shackles..I have one more question..do you think the original spring pads on the axle could be used with a custom bracket (3/8") and U-bolts to support hairpiin radius rods? It would be a bat wing bracket welded to a plate that U-bolts to the axle on the existing leaf spring mounting pad ...that would get rid of my split wishbone rods.
Thanks,
Tony