Restoration / Rebuild Begins

[sschutze]

With the new axle being 5" narrower and having a 4" drop I have found that my steering cross rod will no longer fit, it runs through the same area my radiator needs to be. I'll have to convert to a front steer. I know some of you don't like that, but I don't see another option without buying a new radiator. The radiator sits down between the frame rails about 5 inches.
I started to set the engine in place today, found I only have 1 1/2" of ground clearance with the old motor mounts. I knew I was going to have to raise the engine, but this is causing me more problems. I was hoping to get at least 4 1/2" of clearance under the pan just like the front axle. But with it raised that much the upper rad hose is in the way of the fan. I'll have to raise the radiator 4" too, then raise the grille shell, I'm affraid that will look goofy.

 

[Youngster]

Is the picture of the front end in post #18 what you have now?

When the body was on the frame, was it up to the kick?

How much room did you have between the firewall and the engine?

Ron

 

[sschutze]

Is the picture of the front end in post #18 what you have now?

Yes, that is the new front axle installed.

When the body was on the frame, was it up to the kick?

I see where your going with this, good idea but unfortunately the body was as far back as it could go. Any further and I start to sacrifice what little leg room I have.

How much room did you have between the firewall and the engine?

Less than 1", the engine and body don't have much room to move.

 

[sschutze]

I started to set the engine in place today, found I only have 1 1/2" of ground clearance with the old motor mounts. I knew I was going to have to raise the engine, but this is causing me more problems. I was hoping to get at least 4 1/2" of clearance under the pan just like the front axle. But with it raised that much the upper rad hose is in the way of the fan. I'll have to raise the radiator 4" too, then raise the grille shell, I'm affraid that will look goofy.

I may have to use an electric fan. That would solve my problem here.

 

[Youngster]

I see you have the SB type steering arms on your spindles. Take a look at the ones Chassis Eng. offers for a Model A. They offer 2 different drops. Look at the deep drop. They have solved the problem of tie rod clearence many times for me.

If you still need more clearance, depending on how thick your back seat cushion is, you might be able to recess the kick an inch or so into the back of the body.

To be honest with you, if it was in my shop, I would be trying real hard to talk you into a new frame using as much of the original componets as possible. I think I can see your eyes rolling but think about it. $300 or so and you've sidestepped lots of problems. Sounds like you're completely rebuilding the original frame anyway. JMHO

Ron

 

[sschutze]

I see you have the SB type steering arms on your spindles. Take a look at the ones Chassis Eng. offers for a Model A. They offer 2 different drops. Look at the deep drop. They have solved the problem of tie rod clearence many times for me.

Thanks, I'll check that out.

If you still need more clearance, depending on how thick your back seat cushion is, you might be able to recess the kick an inch or so into the back of the body.

The kickup is already into the body a few inches.

To be honest with you, if it was in my shop, I would be trying real hard to talk you into a new frame using as much of the original componets as possible. I think I can see your eyes rolling but think about it. $300 or so and you've sidestepped lots of problems. Sounds like you're completely rebuilding the original frame anyway. JMHO

I think I have it figured out now. A new frame is an option that I would not rule out, but I think I can work around these things if I take my time and plan it.
I have the new motor mounts fab'd up, just have to make 'em look pretty now. I'll install an electric fan so I don't have to move the radiator. Then I can move on to the next

Besides, rebuilding it is half the fun.

I'll have more pics tomorrow.

 

[Youngster]

What is the wheelbase?

Ron

 

[sschutze]

What is the wheelbase?

96"

 

[Youngster]

Wow a shorty! The one I built with a ChebbyII 4-banger was 98". It would get out of shape pretty easybut it had a '40 rear with 4:11 cogs.

Ron

 

[sschutze]

Today I finished the engine mounts. I fab'd these up with scraps from around the garage.
The brackets that bolt to the engine were cut off the original mounts.

Had a friend check the welds just to be sure, had to grind and re-weld a couple, but I am happy with the way they turned out.

I compromised a bit and set it at 4" of ground clearance. I don't think it will be a problem. This will be the lowest point on the car.

 

[one finger john]

What about the flywheel cover?

 

[sschutze]

What about the flywheel cover?

It's an Oldsmobile 3 speed manual transmission, the oil pan is just a hair lower than the trans

 

[Ted Brown]

Well what it is now and what it will be with the car complete and people in and ready to drive, the pan will be a lot closer to the road, that would be max for me (4 inches) = loaded, I have spend many to many hours fixing oil pans, never again, I have learned my lesson the hard way, the street is not that friendly to low engine parts, especially if your suspension works the way it should... It will be easier to raise the engine up more now, than later... Mounts do look good... PS, you can also cut the outside corners off the front frame cross member, use a section of 2 to 3" x heavy wall pipe or tubing to make the 2 pieces to weld in there, it will look a ton better that way... IMHO

 

[Youngster]

Steve, I would really recomend a new frame. I don't mean to sound like a broken record but you could solve so many problems with one. Around here 4" of pan clearance is just asking for trouble. 6" is the least I will build.

Another issue would be the wheelbase, 96" is really short. The longer your wb the better your car is going to handle. Running a 3-speed is going to be an experience with a short wb. With a spring over I would recomend at least a 102", 104" would be even better.

Ron

 

[sschutze]

When I took the old windshield apart (20" tall - 2 piece style) the (steel) frame around the glass was rotted. I'm changing to a 14" tall single piece style.
I looked into Spirit and Speedway windshields, but my body (built in the 60's) is narrower than those and I'd have to either paint or chrome a custom size from them.

My brother is a machinist, he can mill a channel for my new windshield frame and I can re-use the posts I have now.
His boss is going to sell me the material at cost and my brother will mill them on his own time. He'll cut them to a rough length and ship them to me and I'll have someone locally weld them once I get them cut to the right dimensions.

He can get either 7/8" Stainless or Aluminum solid rod, any thoughts on what is preferred/common? I am looking for a chrome/shiney look without having to have them plated.

 

[Youngster]

Given the choices you have, I would go with the aluminum stock. I believe that's what Rooster used and his came out vety well.

Ron

 

[2old2fast]

i USED 6061 T-6 ALUMINUM BAR ST[MACHINED OM MY TABLE SAW] POLISHED UP VERY NICE IT'S HARD TO TELL THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN IT & THE CHROME SHORT POSTS THAT IT'S MOUNTED IN . PLUS, YOU CAN EASILY DRILL AND TAP FOR MIRROR MOUNTS, ETC.


DAVE

 

[rooster57]

I did use alum with a 3/8 groove milled in it half the thickness. I sat some o ring material in the groove for the glass to rest on then filled the void on both sides with winshield goop works very well.

Sorry i guess i cant post pics anymore oops

 

[rooster57]

I would have to agree with youngster on the frame situation. Its the foundation if its not right nothin else will be, not being critical just tring to be helpfullllll

 

[sschutze]

PS, you can also cut the outside corners off the front frame cross member, use a section of 2 to 3" x heavy wall pipe or tubing to make the 2 pieces to weld in there, it will look a ton better that way... IMHO

Ted,

Would yo mind explaining that? Are you talking about the engine mounts?
I'm not sure I understand what you are referring to.