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Routing of Wires?

PotvinGuy, here is a link to the valve covers.

http://paceperformance.com/i-6120374-2-piece-die-cast-valve-cover-proform-141-915.html

I lucked out on mine because a buddy was cleaning out stuff and had an unopened pair in his shed. He asked if I would like to have them for the T when I was still building it. If I remember correctly he wanted $35. How could I refuse "junk" like that.

There was the company name cast into the top and I hate advertising, so I made a cover plate to eliminate it and have since added a little chrome accent piece on top of it. I think that you can see it in this picture.

Picture218.jpg


Jim
 
PotvinGuy, here is a link to the valve covers.

http://paceperformance.com/i-6120374-2-piece-die-cast-valve-cover-proform-141-915.html

I lucked out on mine because a buddy was cleaning out stuff and had an unopened pair in his shed. He asked if I would like to have them for the T when I was still building it. If I remember correctly he wanted $35. How could I refuse "junk" like that.

There was the company name cast into the top and I hate advertising, so I made a cover plate to eliminate it and have since added a little chrome accent piece on top of it. I think that you can see it in this picture.

Picture218.jpg


Jim
The only accent piece I see .....




MERRY CHRISTMAS , TO ALL

John
 
That 71 nova was my highschool car


MERRY CHRISTMAS , TO ALL


[/quote]
 
I had a Nash Metropolitan for a while but my dad sold it and got us a '62 T-Bird. Always seemed to be fixing something on that car. But, the girls did like it.
 
PotvinGuy, here is a link to the valve covers.

http://paceperformance.com/i-6120374-2-piece-die-cast-valve-cover-proform-141-915.html

I lucked out on mine because a buddy was cleaning out stuff and had an unopened pair in his shed. He asked if I would like to have them for the T when I was still building it. If I remember correctly he wanted $35. How could I refuse "junk" like that.

There was the company name cast into the top and I hate advertising, so I made a cover plate to eliminate it and have since added a little chrome accent piece on top of it. I think that you can see it in this picture.

Picture218.jpg


Jim

I just bought a set very similar:

778-141-915.jpg


Same company, but $200. I don't like names either; they had it with a bowtie or Chevy on it.
 
I was just curious, when you cut hole in your frame, I am going to assume you are drilling a hole on the inside of the frame? I just dont want to drill any holes and weaken the frame. I would like to run all my wires on the inside also, just dont want to drill any unnecessary holes.
 
Just drill the size you need. You're not going to hurt the frame by drilling some holes. Two of mine a 1-3/4" for access to my wire connectors.
 
This is my take on frame holes. I always weld a bung to keep from getting a stress crack. I usually use a threaded coupling so i can add a connector to run the wires through. This does two things it provides a non sharp edge for the wires to lay on when they exit the frame and strengthens the hole. Weather pack connectors are great for signal circuits 10 amps and under. The connectors generally will accept an 18 gauge wire this is good for about 12 amps in the frame on a hot day. The connectors are rated at 20 amps at 16 volts. most cars are 12-13 volts so the 20 amp connector realistically is probably good for 16 amps but this is a case where the connector can only be rated for the size of wire it will accept. so 12 amps. So my thoughts are i would rather have a wire numbered on a terminal strip that i can disconnect than a weather-pack connector that will, with no doubt, if overloaded, will need replacing when it burns up. and it will. CHECK the AMP rating just because a wire will fit in it doesn't mean it is rated for that wires current . FIRE and fiberglass are a bad combination. THIS is just my opinion Happy cruising.
 

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