spring shackles
- Thread starter Johnny
- Start date
I'll jump in on this.
No. I can't think of an application where one would tighten a bolt as tight as it'll go.
Using my project as an example, I have my shackles "just over snug". How's that for technical language?
I have urethene bushings in the eyes of each spring. Inside the bushing is a steel sleeve.The mounting bolts ride in the steel sleeve with a lump of grease. The bolts a "tad over snug" allows movement as needed to accomodate spring flex.
The urethene bushings are flanged which puts the shackle against a flat surface and the shackles are the same diameter as the flange to produce an ever so slight friction shock action.
I use grade eight bolts and lock nuts to achieve the "just over snug" fit. The grade eight bolt is not necessarily a necessity but the lock nut is.
No. I can't think of an application where one would tighten a bolt as tight as it'll go.
Using my project as an example, I have my shackles "just over snug". How's that for technical language?
I have urethene bushings in the eyes of each spring. Inside the bushing is a steel sleeve.The mounting bolts ride in the steel sleeve with a lump of grease. The bolts a "tad over snug" allows movement as needed to accomodate spring flex.
The urethene bushings are flanged which puts the shackle against a flat surface and the shackles are the same diameter as the flange to produce an ever so slight friction shock action.
I use grade eight bolts and lock nuts to achieve the "just over snug" fit. The grade eight bolt is not necessarily a necessity but the lock nut is.
Ted Brown
Member
I sure hope you wrote this wrong, because a shackle should never ride on/in any steel bushings, it should ride in the Urethene or brass or micro flex bushing only.
Ted Brown
Member
I got to thinking about what I said about shackle steel bushings, and may have caused some confusion... That steel bushing is there to become 'one' with the shackle itself when all the nuts are tightened up tight... Now the steel bushing is now what turns inside the urethane or micro-flex material, not the bolt or the shackle bolt itself. Sure hope this makes more sense...
Ted, you are correct.
My post was written under two influences. One was the heavy air here in Hawaii as compared to the Oxygen thin stuff at home. The other may have been a nice Chardonnay.
I do have steel sleeves in the urethne bushings and they are then pinched against the shackle faces to "become one" with the bolt. The lump of grease accomplishes two things - it reduces the chance of rust and allows they movement I mentioned if the sleeve decides to move on the bolt rather than the bushing.
As I sit here staring at the ocean, I realize I may have an area of concern as my front shackles rotate (a couple of degrees at most) on the bolt, which becomes a wear point. My shackle bars are 4130 that have not been heat treated - though I may do so. If I lock the bolt to the shackle plate, the bolt will then rotate in the perch. This is also a wear point but with much greater surface area to distribute the wear. A lump of grease here is also helpful.
My post was written under two influences. One was the heavy air here in Hawaii as compared to the Oxygen thin stuff at home. The other may have been a nice Chardonnay.
I do have steel sleeves in the urethne bushings and they are then pinched against the shackle faces to "become one" with the bolt. The lump of grease accomplishes two things - it reduces the chance of rust and allows they movement I mentioned if the sleeve decides to move on the bolt rather than the bushing.
As I sit here staring at the ocean, I realize I may have an area of concern as my front shackles rotate (a couple of degrees at most) on the bolt, which becomes a wear point. My shackle bars are 4130 that have not been heat treated - though I may do so. If I lock the bolt to the shackle plate, the bolt will then rotate in the perch. This is also a wear point but with much greater surface area to distribute the wear. A lump of grease here is also helpful.
Ted Brown
Member
If the shackle rotates inside that steel bushing, it is not as tight as it should be, that is what makes the whole unit strong, (works same as a shoulder bolt) and the softer shackle bushing material at times needs no lube, (some are self lubricating) but they do make a great rubber grease for shackles and control arm bushings, I will have to get the part number, it comes in a tube, if I remember right.. (maybe called brake grease??)
Again Ted, you're correct. Athough, I don't fully grasp of what might be the magnitude of the potential problem of my setup.
Let me try that again in English. Ted, you're right, but I don't get it.
My bolts are a few "thou" smaller than the steel bushings in my urethane bushngs. Since I haven't driven a hot rod, I don't know what I don't know.
I could make new bushings that would be within a half a thou of the bolt O.D. or tighter. However I don't (at this time) see that will improve my ride quality when I finally get this thing done. Time will tell.
I'm beginning the think I may be leading Johnny astay - digressing from the subject.
OK, OK, to keep it up, I have synthetic grease in my......... ah, parts. I think one could use Lubriplate or a mixture of water and brake fluid like we used to use on rubber parts back in the early sixties... yes Paris, 1960's when I worked on the grease rack at a Pontiac (remember those) dealership. Oh, I forgot, brake fluid would hurt the painted bits. I guess we didn't worry about that when squirting each other or the chassis of a '63 Bonney with a 421, 4 speed and a reverb!
Let me try that again in English. Ted, you're right, but I don't get it.
My bolts are a few "thou" smaller than the steel bushings in my urethane bushngs. Since I haven't driven a hot rod, I don't know what I don't know.
I could make new bushings that would be within a half a thou of the bolt O.D. or tighter. However I don't (at this time) see that will improve my ride quality when I finally get this thing done. Time will tell.
I'm beginning the think I may be leading Johnny astay - digressing from the subject.
OK, OK, to keep it up, I have synthetic grease in my......... ah, parts. I think one could use Lubriplate or a mixture of water and brake fluid like we used to use on rubber parts back in the early sixties... yes Paris, 1960's when I worked on the grease rack at a Pontiac (remember those) dealership. Oh, I forgot, brake fluid would hurt the painted bits. I guess we didn't worry about that when squirting each other or the chassis of a '63 Bonney with a 421, 4 speed and a reverb!
Francis Blake
Active Member
Snug with self locking nuts. Too tight and the bushings will deteriorate rather quickly.
Lee_in_KC
Active Member
Johnny, are the fasteners going through your shackles bolts or pressed-in studs? On mine they are studs pressed into the front shackle plate. I spun one from over-tightening the nut against the shoulder on the stud. I don't know how I'll get the nut loose if I ever have to disassemble the shackle. I might could grab the head of the stud with some vise-grips, but that will destroy the chrome plating. Oh well, I'll deal with it when I have to.
Ted Brown
Member
WELL WE ARE ALL TALKING ALL AROUND THIS ISSUE, IF THESE SO CALLED BUSHINGS ARE LIKE THE BUSHINGS THAT ARE IN EVERY 4-BAR BOLT ON END MOUNTS, THAT IS THE TYPE THAT GO INTO MOST ANY OTHER TYPE SPRING SHACKLE MOUNTS ALSO, AND THEY ARE MADE TO BE TIGHT AND NOW ARE ALL ONE UNIT, ONLY NOW THAT BUSHING TURNS WITH THE SHACKLE BOLT, NOT HOLDING STILL WITH THE SHACKLE BOLT TURNING inside THAT BUSHING... A PICTURE OR TWO OF THE WHOLE UNIT, WILL CLEAR THIS ALL UP ONCE AND FOR ALL, YES?
Similar threads
