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SYNTHETIC OIL SUGGESTIONS

vand

Banned
I have been using AMSOIL in my truck and race car. The truck I only change oil and filter once a year since I only put about 5000 mi on it since retirement. I would like to switch to a more readily avaliable product (local parts store). Any suggestions or ideas. I also intend to use synthetic in my T BUCKET once completed. Thanks Van
 
There will be an opinion offered for every brand of syn oil on the shelf. With that said, I think each will out perform regular dino oil, so you are better off with any syn oil. My son runs Castrol Edge in his turbo charged Mazda Speed6, I run Mobil 1 in my 99 supercharged Mustang Cobra, and bought 10 qts of Castrol Syn 5W-50 for the 2013 Shelby. There are some Used Oil Analysis reports available on the net. I think Red Line and Royal Purple did not fare as well as the other top shelf brands. Amsoil did do well, but does not offer the variety of wts as some of the others. Probably nothing here but water fountain information, but hope it helps.
 
What RR said.... You can run any synth oil you want, as long as its the same wt. you were running. There's alot of folks that don't realize that synth oils can go a long way, mileage wise, without thermal breakdown, which is one of its major advantages.
The price sometimes can get prohibitive, but one does not need to change that oil near as much. A T that doesn't get alot of mileage can go a few years, before the oil changes, if you heat the oil up enough to burn off the condensation residue. Alot of times, you will get more wear ( its not really wear, but folks think it is) by changing the oil too often, the bores will glaze slightly because the synthetic is so slick, it will affect the seating of the rings, causing blowby. The motor will start to smoke slightly.
That is why sometimes people in the know will run a lighter synthetic, because you do need some slight friction on the rings to have them seal.
There are instances where running synths where your seals will develop leaks because of the superior anti-friction additives. If you set your motors up correctly, you can pick up enough horses to win the races.
Alot of folks run the synth blends, which is what I do. Anti friction is good on the bearings, but needed in a few areas like, on, say rings. A motor also needs to transfer heat, also. thats why if seats are to narrow, valves and seats can overheat. Oil acts as a coolant to a certain extent in some areas of the motor, ie, valve guides and piston skirts, bearings, etc.
RoadRace motors have big oil coolers....and because of their extremely high rpms, put alot of heat into the oils....

Synths are a tricky subject....you have to know when where and what wt. to run for max. benefits.
 
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Whichever one is on sale when I am changing the oil.

+1

It seems like whichever company pays more for advertising usually wins in most peoples minds because thats all they see on TV or the billboards, but are they really that much different when comparing Synthetic? Maybe spend the extra 4 dollars and stick with a name brand just in case.
 
I've used Royal Purple and Mobil 1. I have not noticed any difference other than RP is expensive as heck. Next time I will just buy whatever is on sale as well.
 
I almost hate to say this, because many will think I'm crazy......but, if you have a regular engine, not high performance, any oil will work just fine..unless you have solid lifters. They require more zinc as oil had years ago. For roller lifters any name brand oil..dyno, semi or syn, will do just fine. Your chances of ever having an oil related failure are just about zero. If you have solid [hydraulic] lifters the Shell Rotella 30W diesel has the zinc and it's not expensive. The ford semi-syn has ratings almost as high as full syn oil. Read as much as you can on independent sites. When you ask people, they will tell you what they use; and, of course, it worked well. As for me, in my daily drivers, I use a syn blend...whichever one is on sale. On my Ford truck I have 125K miles and it uses no oil between 5K changes.
 
I forgot to mention I run the Royal Purple HPS 10w30 in the bucket, as it has a hydraulic flat tappit cam. I figure the extra $20 or so a year on an oil change is cheap insurance.

But for my newer DD cars, they get whatever synthetic is on sale. Just get a high quality filter and you are set for 15000 kilometers.
 

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