Tearing the t apart, gonna lengthen the chassis

[stretch]

If there is any one tip I would give folks building CCR's chassis and using their stretched body, it is this: disregard the instructions, and lengthen the chassis! I have essentially no room between my electric fan and water pump hub. I couldn't run a supercharger if one fell from the sky and hit me on the head! which is probably the only way I'll ever get one...

So I am going to add probably 6" directly in front of the motor mounts. Not only will this make me less nervous about the fan falling into the water pump, it should improve the ride. Other than the metal needed for the stretch, everything else is pretty simple. Gonna replace all the brake lines anyways. Wiring isn't a problem. Already got the 7/8 tubing I need for the new longer drag link, and will hit the steel supply place Saturday for some 2X3X3/16 tubing, and some 3/16 plate to make insert tubing (probably 18" long) for plug welding the extension.

Got some other chassis work to do too. Bought a 700R4 to replace the TH350, need to move the tranny mount back, and shorten the driveshaft. Putting doors in, so can take the steps off. Once the chassis work is done, off it goes, along with other stuff I can't get in the oven, to a powdercoater.

New radial tires coming, new steering stuff (new, not junkyard), new interior (re-upholstering some '68 IHC Scout buckets), lots of other stuff. Gonna take me a few years to do all I want before she's back on the road.

More later.

Frank

 

[409T]

If you have a CCR trans drop-out you can replace it with one designed for the 700R4 and not move anything else.

 

[swatman260]

Stretch, I appreciate that advise. I'm actually gonna be cutting the tubing to make up my frame rails this coming weekend and was debating whether I should make them longer than the CCR plans. I've seen other threads in which CCR says that there is no need to lengthen the rails, but I'm gonna heed your advice on this one.

 

[stretch]

409T, I don't know what I have for a tranny mount, but I built this chassis 15 years ago to CCR specs, so I bet dollars to donuts that I have whatever it is you speak of. I think the 700R4 mount is about the same, and the tranny itself is just a tad under 3" longer than my short tailshaft TH350. Won't be long till I find out!

Swatman, I wish somebody had been around to tell me this when I did mine. I blindly followed the instructions and have bemoaned it ever since. It would be SO easy to do it when constructing the frame, and is really kind of a hassle to be lengthening it. 4" would probably do, but I'm going 6. The engine and body fit together well, it's just that the radiator is mounted as far forward as possible, and I have almost no space between my radiator fan and waterpump. Seeing I never painted the frame, and have decided to go ahead and do a few things before powdercoating it, the time is now. good luck to you with your build. These are great chassis when done right. Think level and square...

Frank

 

[swatman260]

Ive got a body that has a 6" stretch, as opposed to CCR's 8" stretch, so I may just lengthen mine 4". It would be nice to have the extra frame space, but I don't want big gaps in between the components, either. I appreciate the input.

 

[stretch]

It will be easy to do too, just add the 4" ahead of the motor mounts. That's where my 6" are going. Sounds like 4" would be just right for your body as well.

Just an insight. When I first built my frame, I got kinda carried away. It was both out of level and not square. Second time it was level, but out of diagonal 1/8". People told me it would not make any difference and I should leave just well enough alone, but I built it a third time and it was perfect in every way. I own the incredible handling of that little car to pains taken when building the chassis. Best of luck with yours!

Frank

 

[stretch]

Swatman, another thing I ran into and solved was extending the frame more in the back. I built a small stake rack and secured it to the frame, but it would have been easier to begin with to just extend the frame out back more.

I got the interior mostly out, think next is the front axle stuff, then the irs, then the motor/tranny...

 

[one finger john]

Stretch, what engine are you installing in your T? Something that is longer than a SBC?

 

[stretch]

The motor in my t is a 406 sbc. Only one it has ever had. Why?

 

[Mark Denton]

I have been reviewing the download plans from CCR. They are very nicely done with good notation. Is the smooth frame/body the design the change of 6 " being refered to? Moving the motor mounts from approx. 21" to 27" back? If I only had the money to just buy a 27t body, I would use the basic plans and add the suggested 24" to the main frame. Any thoughts?

 

[stretch]

Yes, the "smooth" body is 8" longer, and is fit on the same frame as the standard body. It makes for a very cramped vehicle that just does not look right after I built it. Also, longer frames give a better ride.

I do agree that CCR's chassis plans are the best around. I am adding 6" ahead of the motor mounts, so I assume your math is correct.

I think these frames could easily be extended 24", but I am no expert on this stuff. I have thought about expanding it past the rear kickup as well, but probably will not do that.

Best of luck to you!

Frank

 

[T-Test]

Srtetch, I don't think CCR had an extended body 15 years ago, so you must be putting a stretched body on a standard length chassis. Am I right? If so IMHO I would just build another frame that will fit right and look right and doesn't cost much. Or you could buy a frame from any of the sponcers and have it done without having to do it 3 times.

 

[stretch]

Sorry buddy, but they sure did. I know, I bought it. This hot rod was built by me, not somebody else. This body cost almost a grand back them because it was stretched. I got the CCR build manual in 1998 and it is the "Smooth T" body the manual discusses changes to the frame to accommodate the body I bought. I built the frame three times because I wanted to learn how to do it, and I'm a perfectionist. And I built it to CCR specs from their own manual. As a result, it has been a great hot rod for a good ten years. Now I'm going to make it better.

Okay?

Frank

 

[409T]

I'm confused (easily). Are you aiming for 4 - 6 inches of clearance between the back of the electric fan and the water pump pulley?

 

[stretch]

Yes. The fan and water pump hub nearly touch, and someday I want a supercharger (maybe). Also I would like to move the radiator back maybe an inch. Because of clearances, the radiator is right tight against the front axle.

Frank

 

[vand]

When I started my current T project I mocked up a frame using 2x4 lumber and the tube cross member I planed to use. I ended up adding 8" to the main frame and 6" to the back kick up area. A lot less expensive than trial and error with steel. I used the CCR plans and adjusted the radius rod lengths accordingly. Worked out great. I was sure everything fit and I got the look I was looking for.

 

[stretch]

That's the way to do it Vand. Unfortunately at the time I was a novice and didn't know any better. Now I do, and for less than 100 bucks, I got everything I need to stretch the frame. Amazing to think that ALL my metal back when I built it in '98 cost me no more than $350!

I'm doing this in large part because I'm stripping the T to get the frame powder coated. 10 years of lots of driving and nary a weld crack, so I guess it's time...

Frank

 

[2old2fast]

I know I'm late to the party , but here's how I'd extend your frame : remove the frt. crossmember , "Z" cut the frame tubing , add extension frame members , reinstall crossmember . You can still use the backup plates , but making a "Z" joint is probably at least as strong , if not stronger . My $.02

dave

 

[Mike J]

I agree, Z cut the frame and maybe find some sq. tubing that will slide inside the existing frame, eliminating backup plates. IMO. M.J.

 

[stretch]

What I'm doing is cutting right in front of the motor mounts. I got the steel necessary today to make my own 18+" tubular inserts from 3/16" plate steel. They have to be tight, but not interference fit. Then I drill five 1/2" holes for every 6" (like the pattern of a 5 on one die), so 15 in total for both inside and outside and the top. Then it's plug welded. Got a professional welder buddy of mine who has built a number of show winning hot rods who told me what to do and is gonna do the actual welding. I'm looking forward to it. Will post some pics as I can, but it will be a while yet.

Frank