Island Girl
Well-Known Member
I think it's more a matter of even finding a wheel anywhere near that width, with 2 inches or less backspace, but maybe worth a look . . . .
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- Thread starter Island Girl
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I think it's more a matter of even finding a wheel anywhere near that width, with 2 inches or less backspace, but maybe worth a look . . . .
Indycars
Well-Known Member
I like the look, but hate the work involved. You will have to love it to make that kind of change.
I seconded JetMech727 idea for the correct back spacing being the best idea, easy, get it on the road idea.
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JetMech727
Active Member
The other option then is a proper width housing. Wheel spacers in the 1/4" to even possibly 1/2" I would consider mildly acceptable. Anything more is just asking for trouble imo. Especially with the kind of HP you have. It'll never all get to the ground but any wheel hop will put undue extra stress on the wider spacers. Jm2c
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2old2fast
Active Member
Well ,I'll be the jerk , If the supplier/ manufacturer of the rear end housing/ frame/ body was provided accurate information pertaining to the wheels/ tires that were to be used , then with thier considerable , and much proclaimed expertise,, they Should have been able to determine and provide the correct differential housing/ axle width . fit the provided body ........Period......
JetMech727
Active Member
Or they could have provided the proper tire wheel combo for clearance. Not sure which came first in this instance. The horse or the cart. At any rate, I dont think spacers are the solution.
JetMech727
Active Member
If the wheel spacers are hub centrick, I don't see a problem because the studs will not be doing all the work to hold them together.
What is a hub centric wheel spacer?
Wheel spacers are used for a number of reasons, from form to function. ... This means that the wheels is truly central to the cars hub, meaning no movement and no vibration through the wheels. A hubcentric wheel spacer also result in far less stress on your bolts or studs.
What is a hub centric wheel spacer?
Wheel spacers are used for a number of reasons, from form to function. ... This means that the wheels is truly central to the cars hub, meaning no movement and no vibration through the wheels. A hubcentric wheel spacer also result in far less stress on your bolts or studs.
Neshkoro
Well-Known Member
That's true. Just remember the moment arm that is on the axle flange and the lug nuts and studs . If you notice all the new cars today have wheels that are not dished . Sort of the opposite of what us hot rodders want . That allows the bearings and the load not to be too over hung from support of the bearings . Probably not a real big deal for the light weight cars we have. Just sayin'
old round fart
Well-Known Member
Have you tried the fit or you just measuring? I would think if a different width would be needed Bob and the guys would make it right. With money spent now to I think piece of mind would be worth the investment for safety.
Island Girl
Well-Known Member
With the tire against the body, the wheel sits about an inch from the axle, (about the length of the studs) . . . none of the lugnuts, (the long kind that go thru the wheel) can even catch a thread of stud.
JetMech727
Active Member
When I do stuff like this I use graph paper. Gather all needed dimensions and then transfer to the graph paper. Does not have to be anything elaborately drawn. Simple lines will work. I use each block equals 1". On drag chassis I figure 1" clearance as the tires grow up not out. On street cars I shoot for 1.5" as at some point you will go up an incline at an angle. I've never had anything rub to date. fwiw
So you need to make up that inch plus a couple more for clearance from the body. That means a 3" spacer, minimum. I don't think I would be too happy with that. Don't you have a 9" rear end with a 3rd member? If so and it were mine I would pull the carrier and buy a new housing and axles that will be the proper width. Yes, it is a PITA, but in my opinion better and safer than having that much wheel and tire hanging out on a 3" plus spacer.
Island Girl
Well-Known Member
Welcome aboard, . . . This is a great bunch of folks here.
It's a Spirit '27 super kit, and the chassis is the way it comes from Spirit, it does have a front panhard bar though.
No doubt there's more HP than I can get to the ground, or that a '27 style frame can handle well, but it's not a race car, and I don't drive all that aggressively.
It's more about the looks and sound.
Darlene
... and the ground vibrating! It's all about the bass.
Call or PM Spirit see if they can do a rearend swap, shipping will suck.
Neshkoro
Well-Known Member
Island Girl,
I think you answered your own question. You said you weren't going to drive it so crazy. So I would try a few options.
Option 1: Try the spacers or the longer wheel studs. Check the tightness/ integrity of the lugs and nuts often.
Option 2: Look long and hard for some wheels that have the back spacing you're looking for. Maybe they are custom made.
Option 3: Go with a different wheel/ tire combo that gives the correct clearance you need.
Option 4: Talk to Spirit and have them supply a different wider rear end. They' will need to configure it to suit your build and chassis.
Paint, brackets, shipping costs, etc. sound like a pain. But maybe its the best and final solution.
I think you answered your own question. You said you weren't going to drive it so crazy. So I would try a few options.
Option 1: Try the spacers or the longer wheel studs. Check the tightness/ integrity of the lugs and nuts often.
Option 2: Look long and hard for some wheels that have the back spacing you're looking for. Maybe they are custom made.
Option 3: Go with a different wheel/ tire combo that gives the correct clearance you need.
Option 4: Talk to Spirit and have them supply a different wider rear end. They' will need to configure it to suit your build and chassis.
Paint, brackets, shipping costs, etc. sound like a pain. But maybe its the best and final solution.
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