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The excitement is building

Nice work, but did you wear those sandals while you were cutting ??? Ouch !!! :D
 
Just had to finish the cuts . . . .

Now it's time to eat something

This is gonna take a lot more practice to gain a useful level of proficiency, but I have 2 brackets, 1 that's OK, the other may be salvageable, but I do have plenty of material to make another one if not . . Kinda dinged in too close to the shock mount bolt location on one of them.

Hopefully, . . I can touch things up a bit tomorrow.

I guess we all have to be rookies once in a while . . . :(.

I got a little excited with the new toy and Flip Flops it was . . . :thumbsdown:


First Cuts 3.jpg
 
If you have to cut them again, it is a whole lot easier to hold the stock and drill the holes before you cut out the pieces.
 
I use a straight edge clamped to my work to work as a guide to make straight cuts with my Plasma. The shell on the tip of my plasma torch is something like 1/2 inch or so from the edge to the center of the plasma jet. I rest that tip against the straight edge and just basically drag the torch along using the straight edge as a guide. Much easier to make a straight and consistent cut. Because the center of the plasma jet is a 1/4 " or so away from my straight edge no damage to it.. I still cannot cut a straight-line free handing the torch and use the guide method on any significant length I need to cut. You will be amazed at how nice and clean it cuts when you have something to steady the tip. :cool:
 
I made the first couple little cuts and at least didn't screw anything up . . . . may have to spend some extra time with a grinder, but not too bad for a first timer . . .


No worries. You'll get better. What you have now will work nicely for what you intend to do, esp. after a little work with a grinder. Way to go, girl!
 
G'Day IG, just weld the ding up with the Mig and grind it to shape again, job done. By the way, LOVE the Chinese safety boots. :laugh:
Regards,
 
AusBucket said:
G'Day IG, just weld the ding up with the Mig and grind it to shape again, job done. By the way, LOVE the Chinese safety boots. :laugh:
Regards,
Click to expand...



Thanks for the encouragement guys,

I figured the ding would weld up OK, that was what I meant by salvageable . . . I need some seat time on my TIG anyway, lol . . .

Or on the other hand, I could get it done by some one who actually knows what they're doing and not have to worry . . .

Also put "real shoes" on my K Mart shopping list . . .
 
Welllll . . . .

A little change in plan on the new front wheel studs . .

I ordered new ARP front wheel studs back in May, which were supposed to arrive mid-June, but are now scheduled for late August.

I ordered something with the same, (well +.001") knurl diameter, .(565"), so it would press right in without too much effort. . . Anyway, since wheel stud prices have gone into the stratosphere and I'm seeing September and October delivery dates, . .

I figured I'd see if there was a way to make something work that was already in stock.

Came up with this plan . . . Use studs with a slightly larger knurl diameter, but shoulder length and otherwise compatible, and drill/ream the holes to accept them. . .

Found these suckers in stock, and ARP must be damn proud of them given the price, https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-7724

From the ARP website, I got the details for enlarging the hole size: The Official ARP Web Site | Kits and ordered a 37/64" drill bit and reamers from McMaster.

Of course to add insult to financial injury, I had to order new lug nuts in 1/2-20, since the ones I previously ordered for the originally planned stud size was M12X1.5

I doubt they'll make it here for this weekend, but at least I can be moving forward again soon. :thumbsup:
 
These ones have a longer shoulder but would they work? RockAuto has the best service in the business, they will typically ship within 24 hours of an order being placed.
I can understand feeling like you want the best studs available, but ARP prices have never made any sense to me when OEM grade studs are available everywhere for a fraction of the cost and pretty much hold up to anything as long as they're properly sized and torqued.
 
MMC757 said:
These ones have a longer shoulder but would they work? RockAuto has the best service in the business, they will typically ship within 24 hours of an order being placed.
I can understand feeling like you want the best studs available, but ARP prices have never made any sense to me when OEM grade studs are available everywhere for a fraction of the cost and pretty much hold up to anything as long as they're properly sized and torqued.
Click to expand...

I buy stuff from Rock Auto for normal service parts, (and the shipping is quick) but don't mind spending extra for ARP when I don't want to compromise.

The whole plan here was to get rid of the service grade, short original studs and have ARP quality that are long enough to come out thru the top of the hex portion of the lug nut, which is only going to happen with an aftermarket stud.
 
Spanky said:
May not be critical anyway since the wheel thickness will take up most of that shoulder, n'est-ce pas?
Click to expand...

The knurl size for ones he posted is too small anyway, it's .004" smaller than original.

And given the length of the sleeve portion of the lugnut, the knurl length may well be too long as well . . . https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wld-601-1426


I'm sure it's going to be a major pain in the butt to drill and ream the stud holes for the .595" knurl of the new studs, but I can't see anything else coming to fruition in a timely manner.
 
Chin up IG, it's just another job customising things for a correct fit. Unfortunately it's also something that no one will know is there when finished, but it's part of a Custom Build such as yours, and necessary to obtain the quality job you're making of it.
Keep up the "entertainment" we're all enjoying your build.
Regards,
 
Thanks for the encouragement guys, . . .

I'm not having any luck finding a video to use for help, any help would be appreciated . . . I assume I can do this on my drill press . . . . the knurl diameter on the new studs is only .030" more than the originals.
 
If you have access to a lathe big enough you can push them in with the tailstock and the bolt in question in the middle of the 3 jaws.

That is if the drill press struggles.
 
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