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The excitement is building

Oh just thought. I shaped my steering wheel spider from a 8mm flat blank using a Black and decker power file, (along with many many other parts on the T). Belts from ebay in numerous grits. Runs around 50 buck in the uk so great value

KA900E_1.jpg
 
Island Girl said:
Thanks for the encouragement guys, . . .

I'm not having any luck finding a video to use for help, any help would be appreciated . . . I assume I can do this on my drill press . . . . the knurl diameter on the new studs is only .030" more than the originals.
Click to expand...

I don't know if these will help.


You'll have to find the RPM sweet spot for the drill bit versus the hardness of the axle flanges. Too slow, it won't cut. Too fast, it'll burn up the bit. Since it'll only be cutting on the very outside of the flutes. Lots of cutting fluid.

Do you have a hydraulic press? If not this method can work for install.

 
I just read that you're only doing the fronts.
 
If you have a single flute counter sink you can use it to center the chuck over the hole and clamp it down then put in the drill bit. Centers much better than the bit. Good luck.
 
As above but some more old stuff. If you have reverse on your bench drill, knock the corners off the drill bit point and then use reverse at a slow speed to centre a hole. Also by knocking the corners off, the bit is much more accurate to its size. Almost like a cheap reamer.

And yes, speed is a vital ingredient to drilling a good hole. Many people always drill too fast in the belief its more efficient. you can see and feel when the speed is right by the way the swarf comes out and the smell of the cutting fluid (smoke as well).

Said enough today, going for a nap.
 
Gerry said:
If you have access to a lathe big enough you can push them in with the tailstock and the bolt in question in the middle of the 3 jaws.

That is if the drill press struggles.
Click to expand...


I've got a press, so not too worried about getting them in, more just worried about the hole staying centered as I enlarge it on the drill press . . .

From watching the video, I shouldn't have anything to really worry about . . . seems maybe I'm over-thinking things again . . . :confused:
 
Last edited:
Island Girl said:
The knurl size for ones he posted is too small anyway, it's .004" smaller than original.

And given the length of the sleeve portion of the lugnut, the knurl length may well be too long as well . . . https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wld-601-1426


I'm sure it's going to be a major pain in the butt to drill and ream the stud holes for the .595" knurl of the new studs, but I can't see anything else coming to fruition in a timely manner.
Click to expand...

I guess I had some kind of weird lisdexia for a minute there, sorry.
I must have thought a six was a nine or vice versa. Good thing I'm not the one ordering your parts!
 
Flip the belt so it makes a figure 8. It’ll run backward. You only need it to run backwards for a few seconds. . Run it, align it, lock it down and then reverse the belt. If the motor can be wired to run in either direction, install a double pole switch.
 
Talk about Clairvoyance! !

A few posts back I mentioned that I started looking at using wheel studs that were in-stock and ready to ship, even if it meant more work on my end, as I was worried that what I originally ordered back in May, that was scheduled for delivery in June, and then re-scheduled for late August, might with my luck, be delayed yet again . . . . . . . . .

Yea, . . Well . . . . I just looked at my original wheel stud order status on Summit this morning, and sure enough . . . . . Delivery is now expected October 15th . . . . WTF!

I'm getting really skeptical of ordering anything that's not in-stock, and ready to ship.
 
I see a few sellers on eBay selling ARP 100-7724.

They might actually have them in hand.

 
Not completely related but interesting when you say On Back Ordered, I had a small water valve part in my refrigerator go bad and started leaking back in may. I had the repair guy come take a look and says it is the waterflo meter on the valve. The meter is leaking. He looks up the part number writes it down and gave me the info. He says I will order the part for you and let ya know when it is in.. Two days later he calls me and said there are none available everything is Back Ordered. He further says if I want to order it myself I can save me his markup on the part and he will still install it. So I decide to search for the valve everywhere and dedicated a full day to search out this part. I figured I could find one and that he just didn't want to do the search himself. Well to shorten the story I could not find one anywhere in the US and Canada. Everyone was out of stock Back Ordered. I might add here my fridge is a Kenmore. I finally relent and go to the manufacture Sears Parts direct. I call and talk to the parts rep and he says they were expected to be in stock by the 25th of May. Ok I order the part and expect it at the end of may. Well that date and time went by and now end of June and I I get from them is "Back Ordered". I get an email from them every 3 weeks pushing the date out farther and farther.. My latest date to expect the part is now August 25 2021. WTH?
 
Trickle-down consequences of Covid shutdowns and related re-prioritizing, or so they want us to believe . . . .

And to add insult to injury, the prices have taken a massive jump . . . .

When I ordered the 7717's back in May, they were $38, (per set of 5) and now they're $50

At this rate, my build may take longer than Spanky's . . . . .
 
I'm a super stud . . . . installer

New wheel studs are in and what a job it was, at least for an old lady with no helper . . . My back is gonna be killin' me all week I can tell already

Making sure each hole was as perfectly lined up as possible took a lot of time and was more than a little frustrating, but the extra effort and attention to detail paid off when it was time to see how the long sleeved lug-nuts centered up in the wheel holes and pulled up slick and easy.

Anyway, . . started with a 9/16" drill to clear out the hole a little and get rid of the old knurl ridges, then used the 37/64" drill as recommended by ARP, then semi finished with a .5800" reamer, and then finished with a .5890" reamer, which gave me .005" to .006" interference, which is exactly what ARP says to have.

Overall it was quite the experience, but not one I'm in any hurry to repeat . . .

Waiting on some new stainless steel cotter pins to come in from McMaster before I seat the bearing caps, and kinda thinking about adding "Bearing Buddies" in place of the caps for extra peace of mind, since E-trailer has them in stainless steel the right size, 2.080". https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Bearings-Races-Seals-Caps/Bearing-Buddy/BB2080SS.html


Here's a few pics of the process, . . . didn't get pics while drilling / reaming as I was leary of holding the camera with oily /slipper fingers and didn't want to break my concentration. . . also a pic of the shitball originals that got replaced


Studs.jpg

New Studs 3.jpg

New Studs 4.jpg

New Studs 2.jpg

New Studs 1.jpg
 
Could you post a picture of one of the lug nuts in profile?
 
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