The naked chassis thread.
- Thread starter Gerry
- Start date
Most posts are of the posters cars themselves. Example--Delzolde--His build/frame. Unless otherwise stated.
I don't know if you a mechanically inclined or a welder /fabricator but you will certainly need to go through these forums to learn all you can BEFORE you start your build
Buy as much as you can from the Sponsors on here if you are not going to build/weld yourself.and ask them anything and you will most likely get the best info you can get any where.
You can build the car as heavy as you like as in 3/16 or 1/4 thick material and whatever width and depth you want 11/2X3 or 2X4. But why build it that way when it has been working for many years in 1/8th material. I use 3/16 only because I use self threading bolts to hold a lot of stuff on the frame. It also adds a lot of weight to the car. Pick your poison.
If you have EVER ridden in a buggy sprung T-Bucket, you will not enjoy driving long distances more than 25 miles as your body will be hurting after you do no matter your age.
Dezolde
Member
Ours is a California Custom Roadster (CCR) frame that I purchased from an individual who had decided to not pursue the build. CCR frames are 3" x 2" x 3/16" wall and already have frame holes drilled/tapped.
I modified the frame by adding additional crossmember (1" x 3" x 1/8" wall) just in front of the rear end for transmission cooler(s) and seatbelt mounts and driveshaft u-bolt guard. I also added a section (3' x 2' x 1/8") on the rear of the CCR frame to provide additional mounting and support for fuel tank (14 gal) and battery.
The tail shaft drop down, which was for 350, was also modified to use with 700R4 which is slightly longer. Sorry, don't have a picture of the re-drilled drop down. CCR also offers a drop down for the 700R4but I just modified the 350 version.
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I modified the frame by adding additional crossmember (1" x 3" x 1/8" wall) just in front of the rear end for transmission cooler(s) and seatbelt mounts and driveshaft u-bolt guard. I also added a section (3' x 2' x 1/8") on the rear of the CCR frame to provide additional mounting and support for fuel tank (14 gal) and battery.
The tail shaft drop down, which was for 350, was also modified to use with 700R4 which is slightly longer. Sorry, don't have a picture of the re-drilled drop down. CCR also offers a drop down for the 700R4but I just modified the 350 version.
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Dezolde
Member
Forgot to mention that this CCR frame already had upper rear shock mounts for sedan (61+" wide) Jag rear end. I used sedan rear but narrowed to 57" so shock mounts then a bit outboard. I considered mounting shock mounts further in on crossmember but decided to go with shorter shock/spring instead. That puts them a bit more upright but ride seems Ok with 180# springs and angle of half shafts and lower control arms closer to horizontal as desired
old round fart
Well-Known Member
I think Ron (RPM also sponsor) makes 1 off frames. My frame is 1/8” because I like the looks of the corners of the frame better. I weld in a threaded slug if I want to bolt anything to the frame. Most nuts are thicker than 3/16” anyway so it may not be very strong anyway. You are building a 2,000 lb. car not a bulldozer.
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Gerry
Well-Known Member
You are not going to find mine on any companies web site. Thing is; by experience and the costs involved in time and money, its far better to buy one in than do a ground up fabrication for anything other than a basic ladder frame. But you better be a good welder and know what you are doing even with that.
Taller T
New Member
I purchased a bucket body, flat panels and gallons of resin to come later with warmer weather to make my vision of a pre 23 T coupe, been thinking about this for years and the time has come, it should be here next month. All of it will be cut up and put back together in a form hopefully looking very cool and different. I feel the need for a more rigid frame to put this much more elaborate than usual T project body on, for one thing the plan calls for a completely glassed in body, as in window glass very similar to factory original T coupes, that's heavy and calls for a very rigid body and frame in my opinion. BTW, I did email Spirit cars about modifying their frame but that was only a couple days ago, we'll see. The thing is, to save work and time because I'm going to have a massive amount of that in the body, I was hoping to use a new pre made frame to get the project done more quickly. Still leaning hard towards the Tribute frame because it has it all except the thickness I want, perhaps I can beef it up with added cross members. I'll be needing a frame fairly soon for mock up, only can do so much with 2x4's.
T-Bucket Bob
Member
Here is roadster so far. Stock 350, 9" ford rear end, 6" Speedway drop axle in front and 350 turboflite trans.
old round fart
Well-Known Member
Oooooh!! Bucket porn at its best! Lol
Taller T
New Member
I was confusing the "tribute" frame with the "traditional frame", the traditional being a 97" long in total length, the tribute only comes in package form and is stated as having 107" wheel base, which I guess means it's even longer. I like the shorter frame anyway.
I'm confused by one thing, here's the quote. "This frame uses a Model A rear crossmember and has a higher rear kick-up than our other frames. It would typically be used with a spring-behind axle having 6" drop and our High Arch rear spring."
What confuses me is the statement that the spring is "typically used behind behind the axle". I'm going with a 9" or possibly a ten bolt used unit btw. If I did that, spring behind the diff, the diff would be hitting the body? So I'm wondering how it can even work. Spring on top is not a problem and the obvious fix, use the medium I guess. I tried, I cannot find one build using this frame anywhere. Hard to resist the wide variety of frames offered here.
I'm confused by one thing, here's the quote. "This frame uses a Model A rear crossmember and has a higher rear kick-up than our other frames. It would typically be used with a spring-behind axle having 6" drop and our High Arch rear spring."
What confuses me is the statement that the spring is "typically used behind behind the axle". I'm going with a 9" or possibly a ten bolt used unit btw. If I did that, spring behind the diff, the diff would be hitting the body? So I'm wondering how it can even work. Spring on top is not a problem and the obvious fix, use the medium I guess. I tried, I cannot find one build using this frame anywhere. Hard to resist the wide variety of frames offered here.
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
Nice! That blue is very nice.
Red arrows pointing at pictures.
Talking about the front axle that has a 6" drop and the front spring mounted behind the front axle.
Most front axles are 4" drop.
The model A rear cross member is arched up instead of the usual flat cross member for the rear of frame.
4" drop axle with transverse spring mounted behind it. Typical of most T-Buckets
Model A rear cross member
Most used rear cross member for a T-Bucket.
The perch was made higher to accommodate the 4" axle on this kit.
Model A spring mounting behind the rear end.
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For all who want to learn the basics of T-Bucket building.
http://www.spiritcars.com/images/pdf/AssemblyManual.pdf
T-Bucket Bob
Member
I took a measure to it and it is a 4" drop.
Taller T
New Member
Looks like I'm going to have to buy it to find the answer to my question. Anyway it goes, I'm sure I can handle it. Probably smart to get a piece of matching frame tubing from the same place to come with it.
So your question (as I understand it) is, will the buggy spring work with the "Traditional" frame and a 9" rear end without a bunch of surgery? I'll bet someone at Speedway can answer that question.
That's what he is saying but the Model A rear cross member will have to be used with the high arch spring or he will never get the front end to be that high--- or as you might say--the rake of the car to look right. .
." What confuses me is the statement that the spring is "typically used behind behind the axle".
I think this will help The FRONT axle has the spring behind.
I'm going with a 9" or possibly a ten bolt used unit btw. If I did that, spring behind the diff, the diff would be hitting the body? So I'm wondering how it can even work.
The rear spring is also mounted BEHIND the REAR axle.
How would the body hit anywhere?
If you call RPM he will probably build you a frame just as you want. Bet a nickle on that!!!
JetMech727
Active Member
Here's a pic of a car I did using a rear buggy spring. Didn't use the traditional "A" cross member and instead cut the frame to match the arch and welded a plate with same arch to attach spring to. I then had Tulsa auto spring make me a spring stack to my specs. That car was my previous avatar.
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