Garage Merch                Ron Pope Motorsports                California Custom Roadsters               

The "what's left of my build thread!"

I think the only upside of buying what turned out to be a POS was it was registered already as a 25 T... so even though it's a totally different car (the before picture really doesn't show you how rough everything really was), I just changed the color on the registration and called it good! :lol:

Before

before.jpg



After

carshow014.jpg
 
Al

That's a smart way to go. If I were to start another project, I would look for an old cast-off bucket just for the papers, too. Especially if it was registered as a real T.

Of course, sometimes lots of things have to be replaced on old project cars. Might wind up only being able to save the numbers!:eek::lol:

Honest, that was a joke, I would NEVER do anything like that!;):cool:

Oh well, a least it's behind me now and I can get on with finishing this project.

Mike
 
Well, the machine shop called today with some bad news.

The block for the 283 that I was going to use is bad. There are some rust pits in a couple of cylinders that probably won't clean up at .060 over.

I know that .120 was acceptable years ago, but I really don't want to take a chance on that much overbore.

I'm going back to the original plan and use the 350 I have. It will have a late model Vortec roller cam block and early camel hump heads. I had trouble finding a decent pair of Vortec heads. They might flow good, but the Vortecs have to be the weakest heads Chevrolet ever made! I'm going to use a mild roller cam(Comp XE258HR).

Too bad, I think the 283 would have been perfect.
 
Too bad you're not closer, I could help you out there.

Ron
 
Hotrod46 - what a build. I'm going through all the pages on that other site and I'm impressed. I know I don't have those skills but some of the stuff you've done looks close enough to what I can do I think I might just try it. I need to get a collection of steel pieces to play with. I really liked your gas pedal. Elegant but simple.
I'm going to enlist some welding support - I don't have the money for a welder right now and there is some question over the pacemaker. You talked about what they can do in medical technology! This pacemaker I have is a complete data acquisition unit. It remembers when it has increased and paced me, keeps track of my heart beat, all kinds of things. I have a heart "electrical" problem related to an arrhythmia. So the bottom chambers of my heart - the ventricles are 100% paced. Not good to mess too much with the clock!! :D
So, have you had it running yet?

Dan (the dreamer)
Central IL
 
Ron - I agree. I've met several people online that I wish lived closer. Could make for some very interesting bench racing sessions.:D Thanks though.

Dan - Thanks. Sorry to hear that your medical condition may prevent you from welding.

The kit type cars that places like Total Performance and Spirit sell can be built with minimal fabrication. You could also cut and fit the pieces and get someone else to weld it for you. Where there's a will there's a way.

Good luck!

Mike
 
Hotrod46 said:
You could also cut and fit the pieces and get someone else to weld it for you. Where there's a will there's a way.
Mike

That's what Youngster is convincing me! :D
I'm sure I can cut up the stuff and bend and grind. I'm just not quite sure welding is in the cards for me. But I have two friends with welders and one of those guys has a pretty complete machine shop - he builds live steam type trains (1-1/2"=1'-0" scale).
I really like your gas pedal. I'm going to try to duplicate that!
Did you use anything in particular for bushings or bearings?

Dan
 
Sorry to hear about your engine, Mike. But all SBC look alike anyway, so a 350 won't be all that bad. I have a Vortec 350 in mine with 305 Vortec heads. First Chevy I have built and owned in 30 years, but I really have gained some respect for them. Great little motors, and more HP than I need.

Keep up the progress reports, it's fun riding along with you.

Don
 
Dan

Go for it! I'm sure you'll enjoy it.

That pedal was a quickie job that was literally built from scrap that I had laying around my bandsaw(I really hate to throw those little scraps away). The "store bought" pedal I had just wouldn't fit in a comfortable position and interfered with the radiator rod brackets.

I didn't use bushings, although they would probably be a good idea. The rod is 1/2" diameter just because that's what I had on hand. The base is made from 2"x3" tubing cut from the 2" width(2x2 would have worked too). The "spoon" was shaped from a holesaw slug(I keep those too!).

I never really thought of it as elegant(nice compliment BTW:)), just functional.

I'm considering modifying it or fabbing another mechanism to operate the 700R4 throttle position cable from under the dash. That would keep the cable hidden and unclutter the engine. I read about something similar on another site, but there were no pictures, so I'll just have to work it out on my own(I already have a few ideas). The ratios and angles will have to be right or the trans will fry in short order.:eek::cry:

Mike
 
Don

I'm into a little body work right now which is my least favorite part of a build! I look at it as a necessary evil since I can save money by doing it myself. Not very photo worthy though.

I've been trying to keep up with you on CHR. You've got so many projects going, I don't know how you keep 'em straight!:cry: You and your sons do fine work( and lots of it too!). Your son's RPU is very cool!:cool:

Mike
 
I thought it was time for some more updates on my progress with the T. Between work,car shows, hurricanes and a few honey-do jobs, I haven't gotten as far as I had hoped, but I am moving forward. My car show and cruising season is pretty much over, so I won't be taking it to any shows this year, but that won't stop me from driving and enjoying it. I sure did want to take it to Cruisin' the Coast, though. The weather was fantastic and a roadster would have been a blast. Oh well, maybe next year.

I hope to post several updates over the next few days. My camera died(they do that when you drop 'em on a concrete floor!). I have a replacement, so I have to take some pics and get them resized.

While at CTC, I did find to someone to do the upholstery.

I realised after my last update that there were still several things left to be finished. Mostly small "detail" type things, but still time consuming.

One problem area showed up after pulling the body off the frame and sitting it on the floor for a while. A crack developed in the door jamb where the interior section was glued in. This area didn't have enough material overlap to form a good glue joint and apparently had more stress than I first thought. This spot is where I installed the adjustable brace during the build. Stress isn't a problem when it's on the frame since the brace takes the load, but it still needs to support itself. So....I had to put the body back on the frame, realign the door and the reenforce the offending area. A couple layers of fiberglass cloth and some filler and everything was OK. Trouble was, it was in a terrible area to finish. No power tools, everything had to be sanded and shaped by hand. Getting this one small area smooth enough for paint took way longer than I would have thought! Sure makes you appreciate a DA sander! I finished the rest of the door opening while I was at it. Sorry no pics of this, wasn't very photo worthy.

Smoothing the glue joint on the top of the body went pretty good, except for a couple of places that didn't line up well. They had to be built up with fiberglass. At least I could use power tools. I had installed some threaded steel bars in the wood frame of the body to eventually hold down a top. The jig I made to relocate them after glueing everything together worked perfect

I'll try to get pics up ASAP.

Mike
 
i was wondering about you and your project the other day. i too will be waiting for your pictures.

Ron
 
I didn't want to wait to the last minute for the wiring. It really can't be completed until the car is finished, but it's never too early to figure out how it's going to be laid out.
I had originally thought about putting the switches on the front of the seat frame, but came up with another idea. I made a small panel to mount behind the dash on the steering column drop. This puts the switches within easy reach and keeps them fairly well out of sight. Keeps them out of the weather too. I didn't like the look of the signal switch on the column so I made a mount that puts it under the dash with just a short section of the handle showing.
DSCF1112.jpg

DSCF1109.jpg

DSCF1118.jpg

DSCF1117.jpg
 
I fabbed an aluminum panel to put on the firewall to mount most of the other electrical stuff. The fuse panel is an EZ wire mini fuse 12 circuit unit. The junction block is off an S10 Chevy. I cut the flasher block off an old glass-type fuse panel I had in the junk box and made an aluminum bracket to mount it. The signal switch I'm using only needs one flasher for the main and hazard circuits.


DSCF1125.jpg

Yea, I know that's a lot of relays! Four of them are for the air suspension alone. The large area under the relays is for an MSD box. If this car didn't have a door, putting this stuff behind the dash wouldn't be practical, since you would have a hard time just changing a fuse! Since the dash doesn't hold anything but the instruments I can put a simple plug on the wiring harness and pull the whole thing if needed for serious trouble shooting. It is only held in by 6 scews and can be removed in less than five minutes. With the switches mounted on the other panel, I don't even need the dash to drive the car(just won't have any gauges).
 
The bed cover needed a latch and after considering several ideas, I wound up using a simple lock from the hardware store. Works good and gives a little security for the fuel and electrical cutoffs. While I was working on the cover I decided the 3rd brake light looked a little plain, so I made a little trim piece out of aluminum to dress it up.

100_0027.jpg

100_0030.jpg
 
nice details Mike. i really like the turn signal idea. that unit really simplifies the problem of signals but i haven't used it because it looks out of place on a T column. more input please!

Ron
 
Al

The lock is just a simple toolbox type lock from the hardware store. It is a "universal" setup and comes with a blank arm that can be modified for each application. My bed cover is hinged, but this would probably work with a lift off cover too.

The angle iron bracket with the round piece is the catch. I ground the arm into a hook that goes over the catch when it's locked.

The downside is that it has to be manually locked and unlocked with the key, but it is simple.

Here are a couple more pics.

100_0029.jpg

100_0026.jpg
 

     Ron Pope Motorsports                Advertise with Us!     
Back
Top