Mike
Well-Known Member
No one would ever read it, so there's no hope there. I've learned to never waste time on lost causes.Mike, I think we need to have a Motor Starting check list here for people to print out and check off on, that way we don't have all this shotgun effect stuff going on.
The bottom line is that only three things can cause an engine to backfire through the intake like that. It is a lean backfire, an intake valve is open when the cylinder is firing, or a cylinder is trying to fire when an intake valve is open. Since he said he has an electric choke and that when it backfires it is spraying raw fuel out of the carb, it doesn't sound like a lean backfire to me. See how quickly the issue can be narrowed down to one of two causes?
Yes, Aunt Polly, it really is just that simple.
But we're rushing about, checking pushrod lengths (shouldn't that have been done before they were installed, helloooo) and re-checking lifter preload which we've previously been assured was already correct. Next thing you know, turn signal fluid level is going to come into play.
Answers to my questions in Post 45 would get us headed in a positive direction. And each one of those questions only requires a simple yes or no answer. How any could be expected to diagnose a problem without any background information is beyond my comprehension.
You know, if the wires to the headlights are not cut to exactly the same length, that can cause an out-of-phase condition that will always cause the rarely-seen number 12 spark plug to fire as if it had a mind of its own. And the length of the fuel line leading from the fuel pump must be a direct inverse of the header primary tube lengths, or we all know what will happen then. Of course that will only happen when the rear passenger door window is rolled up too tight, but you never know...