Where to locate....
- Thread starter Kaaso
- Start date
You'll need to mount the EFI ECU away from the MSD box or switch to a Mallory or Accel ignition box. The MSD box generates RFI and will interfere with the EFI. I just went thru this last summer.
As part of my rebuild, I'm planning on placing the ignition box high up on the inside of the firewall and the EFI ECU in the pickup box. Some manufacturers recommend keeping them at least 5 feet apart. You'll also need to run multiple ground wires.
Wild Mango
Member
The MSD box generates a bit more RFI because of the capacitive discharge nature of its operation. EFI units typically pick up interference on their power lines and input lines from things like unshielded HT ignition leads, (always use the spiral wound leads) and as GT63 says, grounding is vital to drain away any pickup. A glass body provides no shielding at all, but a steel or ally firewall does, of course. Cooling is usually an issue with ignition and EFI boxes as well, keep in mind.
Wild Mango
Member
I was not being negative about using an MSD control box. As an Auto Electrician I think the genuine MSD product (never mind the junk chinese rip offs) is great and I have used and installed plenty with no problems. By virtue of its function it pulses fairly high voltages, but if you instal everything correctly you will have no problems. Certainly they are a great starter with the multiple spark, arguably the best in my book. I do repeat my opinion to use the correct HT cables with the field supression wound core, this is vital with any HE ignition.
Kaaso
Member
Don't sweat it, you are saying anything that is not true. I have only used MSD boxes on a couple of occasions and those were carbureted. I did not think about the interference issue with an ecu. My distributor does not require a box, I just wanted it for the performance. I doubt I will need anything else to help produce tire smoke. I appreciate all your input.
fordsbyjay
Active Member
The biggest benefit to under the seat is that everything is easy to troubleshoot. Under the dash has to be a nightmare if you have any problems, unless you are an elf..
EX JUNK
Moderator
A solution to an under dash panel is to mount it so that it swings down. Here is a picture of mine.
Jim
EX JUNK
Moderator
The panel is made by Haywire and the wiring is of my own design and it can be found in the Tech section.
Jim
Looks great, very sanitary but wouldn't do that on a steel body car.
EX JUNK
Moderator
EX JUNK
Moderator
When it is swung up into place the studs point down and are not anywhere even close to touching anything including the passenger. If it was anywhere near causing a problem the studs could be easily covered with plastic caps.
Jim
fordsbyjay
Active Member
That looks nice Jim (like everything else you do) but I still wouldn't want to have to troubleshoot a problem under the dash. I've grown to big over the years. lol
I have been thinking of building a small enclosed area along the frame to mount the fuse panel in with a removable cover on the floor for service. This would allow the whole car to be wired requiring only a few wires to come into the body for the signal light switch.
The advantages would be:
easy body removal
I don't have to crawl under the dash
I could lower my seat a few inches and maybe sit behind the windshield instead of over it.
I have been thinking of building a small enclosed area along the frame to mount the fuse panel in with a removable cover on the floor for service. This would allow the whole car to be wired requiring only a few wires to come into the body for the signal light switch.
The advantages would be:
easy body removal
I don't have to crawl under the dash
I could lower my seat a few inches and maybe sit behind the windshield instead of over it.
EX JUNK
Moderator
There is NO crawling under the dash to trouble shoot with my "swing down" terminal board. There is an easily accessed wing nut that can be reached while sitting in the passenger seat that when loosened, allows the board to drop down right in front of you. As for easy body removal, there are plugs mounted in both lower front corners of the body with front lighting and speedometer on the left side and engine wiring on the right side.
Jim
I've done under the dash, on the inner firewall and under the seat. Now I'm rewiring with a big vertical panel to go behind the new bucket seats. Check my project http://www.tbucketeers.com/threads/big-redo-of-the-old-bucket.13677/ for progress reports. For a simple electrical system, an aftermarket wiring kit will do the job and go under the dash. But with an ECU, some relays, and an ignition box, things can get pretty messy. I'd recommend under the seat for you. You only give up a few inches and you don't want to sit on the floor anyway. Under the seat you'll have easy access and room to grow. I route most wiring inside the frame rails and bring it out thru holes into the underseat area. And the battery is in a box under the seat. And I connectorize anything meant to be hardwired. The new panel will be fully connectorized so I can build it on the bench and then just plug it in the car.
FastEddie
Member
Im planning on doing something like this. I currently have the body off to re-wire and re-work other items. Since the body had 1/2" spacers from the frame. Im taking those out and building a subframe from 1/2"x1 1/2" steel where i will be able to suspend my transmission cooler, battery and fuse box. Gaining access to the fuse box thru the floor. Making it possible to remove the body easily if needed. This way, only wires to the body will go to ignition switch and gauges.
Hopefully ill get some parts for christmas and get some progress done. Currently using 1x2's to mock up the subframe. but need parts to locate mounting points.
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