Windshield Frame Material

[Dirt-T]

CCR is a manufacture and supplier for the Windshield Frame Material and we would like to make the material available to the Forum Members at a special price. The Material is extruded solid Aluminum and is weldable and bendable. We sell this by the foot and we will hold the price until the end of January 2012.

Part # 58541-TBF $ 6.25 per foot

We will cut the Material to your size free of charge. (straight cuts)

Thanks, hope this helps.

Jerry and Diane

Could you quote me a shipped price for 2 Ea 4' and 2 ea 2' shipped to 86401
Kingman Az
Terry

 

[RESINATOR]

Terry,
The material is $75. The shipping will be around $18 to Az.

 

[RD1071]

Just curious

 

[PeppermintPatty]

Do you have dimension info on your short w/s posts? Looking for hole distances & other dimensions. Yours look to be fairly close to what I have & I'm trying to determine if they'd fit my body or come close.

If I were to purchase a set to try, can I return them w/ no problem if they are way off?

I'm fairly sure I'd like to hit you up for a 14" windshield frame in the spring. I currently have a 2 pc tall windshield & I can't deal w/ the top glass swinging anymore. It's been impossible to remedy.

thanks for any info!

Karri

 

[PeppermintPatty]

I guess posts can't be edited...?

I mean, I have tall posts & the mounting area on CCR posts looks pretty similar to mine, otherwise I'll end up cutting mine down & using them w/ a shorter 1 pc windshield. My posts are also laid back a wee bit & I would prefer a more straight/vertical mounting, but I could live w/ them if necessary. No idea the manufacturer. The body came out of Cleveland, OH 1971.

thanks again

 

[RESINATOR]

I will have to get the dimensions for you, but the best thing for you to do if your body is already painted is to cut down what you have ( assuming they fit well). The tall posts seem to have a flatter area above the holes and in the past we would need to fit/grind the body to get those type of posts to mate to the body.
You are certainly welcome to order them and gently check the fit to your body, but the posts would have to come back to us in the condition you receive them.
I will get a few dimensions with photos and post in a while.

 

[RESINATOR]

Here are a few photos with dimensions.
The top of dash/base of windshield dimension to the post hole centers are around 4".
The center to center on the post holes is just under 2".

 

[PeppermintPatty]

thx, very helpful! I'll take a closer look at mine, they were made for my body in the early 70's, cutting them may be my best option.
What dimensions do you need to make a frame? Would I measure my existing frame, outside corners (mine seems narrower than what is common these days) or the distance to the inside of my posts?
Thanks again.
Mine, for reference:

 

[TriodeLuvr]

I hope this turns out to be easier for you than it was for me. Even with Jerry's considerable help, it was a huge amount of work changing from lay back to straight posts (plus a taller windshield). The problem was that whoever built the car failed to contour the body to fit the posts. I didn't want to repaint the body, so I spent hours reshaping the new straight-up posts with various grinding wheels. I'll still need to remove them sometime in the spring for powder coating. Incidentally, I wouldn't cut down those long posts until you check to see how much they're worth. In fact, even if they're only worth as much as new short posts, they might be very useful to someone who needs taller posts.

Jack

 

[PeppermintPatty]

Thanks. Mine would get cut if any work would have to be done to fit other posts & it would be the easiest thing to do & ensure that it fits properly the first time around. Mine were made for my body & while they lay back, it's only slight. Even if someone did need taller posts, they'd likely have to put just as much work into getting these to fit their body as I would new ones & I'm not doing any bodywork to my T.

My dad built this car from the ground up when I was a baby & even thinking about changing the windshield is giving me a huge guilt trip, but I can't stand the damn thing swinging like a cat door before I get 200 ft out of the driveway. I'm constantly tightening it.

 

[RESINATOR]

The windshield frame should fit snug into the pocket of the posts, yours looks like it could be a little narrow and fit loose once cut down.
Once you cut the posts off to the length you want, bolt them back up to the body and give me a dimension across at the bottom of the post (at the dash top) and then across the top of the posts. This will account for any tilt angle the post may have. We will make a frame to those dimensions for you.
Also, you need to let us know if you want a full frame around the glass or the top edge of glass exposed. Height is important if you use a full frame because you will not want to be looking thru the frame.
You may also want to consider drilling two holes per side on the posts to improve the fit/stiffness before you cut off too much of the post height.

 

[TriodeLuvr]

...I can't stand the damn thing swinging like a cat door before I get 200 ft out of the driveway.

I'll bet there's a much easier solution for that than changing out the entire windshield. Maybe someone here will have an idea if you post a few closeup shots of the hinge and clamp.

Jack

 

[PeppermintPatty]

As far as the hinge/clamp goes...They are basic tall posts w/ the swivels/wingnuts/threaded rod at the top of the posts, nothing uncommon. Speedway still sells this style as well as others do. I've tightened them so much, one nut had stripped. I bought new swivels & new nuts, think maybe because of age, the originals could have wear issues even though they appear fine. They hold for a while, but get on a rough road & they instantly come loose. I live on a gravel drive & by the time I get to the top of my road to the pavement, I have to stop & tighten again. I don't know how much rods would help this issue, it doesn't seem like it would affect the side to side shake that seems to be the problem. I don't care for the way they look either.

I had planned on running a tape line across the current glass to get a feel for height, I'd like a full, square-cornered frame (not rounded). I was going to ask you advice about fastening it & the two holes per side is what I was wondering. Thanks again, I think this is enough info to get a good idea what I need to do.

 

[old round fart]

I had a 2 piece w/s in my car and I drilled a small hole in the upright and put a self tapping screw into the upper frame at the bottom edge and it stopped the swing. John

 

[PeppermintPatty]

You know, that was something else I considered too. It would be a good solution for the time being. Thanks.

 

[cptn60]

I had a 2 piece w/s in my car and I drilled a small hole in the upright and put a self tapping screw into the upper frame at the bottom edge and it stopped the swing. John

Could one maybe use a dowel(s)/stud in the windshield register? Facing up into a slot or hole it would be hidden by the bottom of the frame. Just a thought.

 

[Bowtie T]

Hey Jerry, I realize this post started a long time ago, what is your price on the aluminum now per foot?

 

[RESINATOR]

The current price for the Material is $8.25 per foot for the T bucket forum members. Use part #58541 TBF to get this price.

 

[BrianD]

The current price for the Material is $8.25 per foot for the T bucket forum members. Use part #58541 TBF to get this price.

Good morning Jerry, What's the current price for the windshield frame material?

 

[RESINATOR]

Hi Brian,
The Material is $11.00 per foot for the T bucket forum members. Use part #58541 TBF so Diane can get you the correct price. Sorry for the delay