Wanted Enclosed Car Trailer

I'm looking for a nice enclosed trailer that .....

• Is 12 to 18 feet long and 8.0 to 8.5 feet wide (Door opening must be over 83" wide)
  
• Spring Assist Rear Ramp Door
• Must be clean and in very nice condition
• Dual 3500# Axles
• Prefer V-Nose

 

Rick if you find one of them trailers see about two cause I am in the market also....They are scarce as hens teeth.,..

 

Will do Sir !

I know what you mean by a short trailer, but wide enough for rear tires. Last year 2019, I
used a UHaul open trailer with a modified ramp to get to the nationals and Ozarks.

 

You meaning 8.5 wide outside tire bulge or inside trailer?

 

Rick, have you measured the length of your car? Mine is 13 feet from the front of the front tire to the end of the trailer hitch--furthest points of car.
Yes you will need an 8.5 wide trailer and yes you will need spare room other stuff other than car.Tools-jacks-cleaning supply's-etc.
For the difference in price, I'd go with a 20 footer. My 24 foot trailer was $1500.00 cheaper than the 20 footer. You just have to have something to pull it with and a good hitch system.
2 Examples




There are more manufacturers and better quality trailers but these are well built. A used trailer can be found but you may have unseen damages that will affect its worth and the repairs.
Most used trailers are priced too close to retail so why take a chance.
The 8.5X16 will/could also double as a travel trailer/tiny house----if your a prepper.

 

What ever the standard measurement applies to when you see a trailer stated as X feet wide. The
only width that's required by me is the door opening of 83 inches for the rear tires.

 

My TBucket is 10'-6" long, that's from back of the rear tires to the front of the front tires. That's
the shortest box my car would fit into.

I would go for the longer trailer except I don't want to tow the extra weight for next 10 years. I would
love to have an aluminum trailer, but the cost will probably stop me unless I find a used one.

 

That is a great price on the 20 footer! However, I agree with T-Test that you get what you pay for. I went the 20' route and I am glad that I did.
Upgrades are also important! I recommend and added all of the following after my new trailer purchase:
- Make sure that, if you order a trailer, to get pressure treated wood for the floor. If you don't, get an undercoating on the floor!
- Boogie wheels to prevent dragging the tail end on steep drive ways
- Electric winch to pll dead cars into trailer. Cheaper Alternative: Have the manufacturer weld the "winch plate" to the frame and you can add a lower cost winch from Harbor Freight or Northern Tool.
- Interior Lights - I bought four 12v LED panels from ebay and I have enough light to work on the car inside the trailer, when it is raining at an event!
- I cranked the tongue jack for years, but this old man finally changed it out for an electric direct replacement (worth every penny).
- Back up lights are great, when you arrive home after dark, and have to back into a long driveway (like mine).
- Roof vent (I tested the temperatures in my trailer in the NC summers and I was hitting 135* regularly) - I put a small solar powered vent in, however, I plan to change it out to a higher cfm version.) I have also seen ones that close automatically when it starts to rain.
- The little plastic half clam shell vents that are mounted to the sides of the trailer are almost worthless. I plan to change out to the aluminum versions.
- Security System
- Loud alarm for Break-ins.
- GPS locator for out right thefts
- Extended rear flap. I had a problem with my transmission pan and changed it to a die cast one. The next time I pulled the T into the trailer, the drain plug was just that much longer and ripped up the wood on the ramp and removed the aluminum trim from the floor. I went with a wood extension, but beware it becomes heavy. I had to adjust the rear door spring to improve the assist, given the extra weight.
- My latest upgrade is installing a 120 v male plug receptacle in the outer wall to run an extension cord to have AC inside the trailer for battery chargers, tools, big work light, etc.
- I painted the floor with porch paint, but if I ever bought another trailer, I would price out factory flooring. The checked flag linoleum (I am sure that they use a more modern product) is cool. Peel and Stick tiles allow oil and water to seep into the wood floor.
- 12v Battery and box to run all of the above.

If anyone is interested, I can take a picture of any mod, mentioned above.

 

Today was the first time I had found pics of a 8.5 x 12 foot trailer and it dawned on me that there would not be enough room, just like you are saying. A 14 foot trailer might work, but would need ramps to go over the wheel wells. Most websites don't give the dimension between the wheel wells.

So 16 foot gives you enough room but how about tongue weight, can you get enough weight there?

Good to know, beaver tail should be a must have then. My oil pan is only about 4.5 inches off the ground.

 

What did you use the extra room for that could not be hauled inside the tow vehicle?

So you were able to do everything on your list after the trailer was built? I was wondering what things I should have done while the trailer is being built such that I could easily upgrade later. Assuming I buy a new trailer.

So you didn't have trouble pulling wire to where you needed it for power?

Do you have any trouble with your vents leaking when it rains?

I would like to see some pics showing what was involved when running wire in a trailer.

Excellent info from both you guys, many thanks for taking to time to share your experiences !!!

 

So Indycars, lots of questions. Let see if can help:

So from the factory, I would take a hard look at:

• Extended Tongue (I missed this above, because I do not have one. However this make backing up easier and if you jackknife, the rear corner of your truck does not pierce the trailer.
• Roof Insulation: This is another one I missed above. My dealer recommended it and I think it was the right way to go. My builder used a thin form material to cover the entire roof.
  
• Winch Plate: This provides a solid platform to mount your own winch.
• Tires: Go for 10 ply tires! The up-charge is not that much, but well worth it!
• Led Lights: (Missed above) All the way around (running/brake/turn signals).
  
• Boogie Wheels
• Floor Covering

All of the other items can be added in your driveway.

To your specific questions:

• Extra Room???? I use tie-down straps in an X pattern. 2 in the front and 2 in back to rings that are mounted in the floor and re-in-forced to the frame. Adding a spare tire (I carry two...don't ask! Yes, I needed both on the trip to the Lobster Run last summer!). As T-Test mentioned, tools, a canopy, hydraulic jack pouch, battery winch...floor space disappears quickly. I went for the 20' in case I found a Coke trailer to pull behind the T.
• "I was wondering what things I should have done while the trailer is being built such that I could easily upgrade later." The winch plate is my only thought.
• I do not have any problems with the vents leaking. The solar powered vent is designed to not allow rain in.
• I will try to take some pics of the wiring tomorrow. Basically, the roof structure is open and wire can run between the inner and outer walls. I do have some exposed, like for the wireless remote control for the winch (Another item that I forgot to mention above.

A couple of other things:

• I just added some of those tire covers. I had several discussions with RV-ers about keeping the tires from drying out and cracking due to the the sun. You can make your own, if you have a commercial sewing machine. I bought mine when Gander Outdoors went out of business.
• I added hooks to the walls to hold my tie-down straps, when they are not in use.
• I added a PVC pipe near the door to hold my police style flash light.
• I cut a detergent bottle to hold me air gauge to the door.
• I have added several baskets, using E-track, to hold rags, detailer, oil. tranny fluid, RainX, etc.
• I added an E-Track star type lug wrench holder.
• I did add a small fuse panel near the battery to avoid electrical problems. The winch, lights, tongue jack are all on separate circuits.
• I added a very small courtesy LED light, on the exterior of the trailer, wired to the overhead lights. I had a terrible habit of leaving the interior lights on. Now when I lock the trailer, I can see if the interior lights are on.
• I also ran a wire from the truck to the trailer to charge the deep discharge (Marine) battery, that I use to power the 12 volt stuff, while I am driving.

I am sorry that I have gotten so windy is these posts, but I wanted to share what I have done to make hauling my T easier!

 

Oh, I might have a pretty good idea, I'm married to !

 

No, you are not too windy, I greatly appreciate you sharing your experiences in detail !!!

I have to get ready for a New Years dinner shortly. Tomorrow after I have a chance to digest your comments, I should have more questions. Thanks again !

 

120 volts and panel with battery charger. Plugs into house receptacle or camp ground or generator.
Notice 120o volt outlet high near rear door.
Inside with E-Track and accys.

 

Inside with E-Track and accys. Notice 120 volt outlet above towel holder.
Unfinished bench seat that will have a table in front of it.

 

Tools and jack kit from Sears that I used on my last trip to Fla. I hate to borrow tools but I don't mind lending the--as long as I get them back.
I have a 1200 lb hitch and tongue weight is now at 1000 but also adding shower and toilet plus 1 sink and fresh-grey-black tanks.

And for us old smokers that can't work hard-- 3500 lb electric tongue jack. I also carry 1 lb and 20 lb propane tanks.

 

Rick I think the trailer dealer in Duncan may be a source for used or customized new trailers.

 

Some trailers and truck boxes have translucent fiberglass tops that allow light in. I don’t know if it is better or worse from a strength or water penetration perspective, but it is a nice feature when entering them. Make sure you get quality trailer tires and wheels that are a common size, style, and bolt pattern. I have seen the carnage that a blowout can do to those pretty, light weight, aluminum diamond plate or fiberglass fenders, etc... steel is much more resistant to wear and damage. From my observation, you may be better off just looking at new ones, especially if you are in any rush to procure one. The used ones are normally priced high, imho, and either very used and, or, sit and tires dry rot, the underside rusts or rots, etc. You never know, there are occasional good deals that pop up, but be prepared to snatch it up, it won’t last. Are there any local U haul or equipment lease vendors? Sometimes the equipment lease companies auction off their stock and upgrade. We have procured some pretty good deals on such items over the years. BTW, some of the exterior sheeting is fiberglass, not aluminum. It looks very similar. It is glued to wood substrate and if it happens to get snagged, is nasty to repair. Happy Hunting!