F1 shock mount question
- Thread starter Zandoz
- Start date
I've not really come up with a plan I like. I'd hoped to use crush prevention tubes to be able to bolt clear through the frame rail, but at least 1 bolt on each mount will be opposite the crossmember...and probably the other also. The best Idea I've had so far is before the frame rail is capped, a heavy plate with bolts welded to it would be slid inside the frame rail and positioned so the bolts are through the side of the frame rail. But I'm still open to suggestions.
James C
Member
Just a spit ballin here but could you not: A: Tap the frame & bolt it directly onto it, or B: Drill a couple holes the size of the nuts you would use & weld the nuts into the holes & then grind the welds flush to the frame?
The frame walls are much to thin to be tapped...2"x4" 1/8" wall tube. Also, I've run across several mentions of the bolts securing F1 mounts pulling out/through frame rails. My thought is that with a heavy enough plate the bolts would not pull through <shrug>
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
I would drill holes large enough to accept tubing that the mounting bolts can pass through. Welded in of course. I think that is what you meant by crush tubes.
Lee
Lee
That was my original plan, but once the frame is welded up, there will be no access to the other side of the frame rail because of the crossmember. I need a plan where the mounts would not be positioned until the frame and the rest of the suspension have been assembled, and the drivetrain is on board.
choppinczech
Well-Known Member
Do you have enough frame rail height?
Some of the Model A guys do this . . .
Some of the Model A guys do this . . .
It looks like I'll be OK in that respect...but it will be close. That issue is part of why I'm going with a 4" tall frame rail.
Bucketman
Member
I would use a 2" bung, chamfered on both ends for welding. Drilled and tapped with the threads you are using, with a bolt in it so spatter doesn't mess up your threads. Drill a hole thru the frame and chamfer both sides for welding. Insert bung and weld both ends, grind smooth. your frame should be as strong as ever.
Would that be stronger than a nut or bolt welded to a heavy plate slid inside the frame rail? I've read about several cases where F1 mounts have pulled out/through the frame....I would think that without something backing that is larger than the hole used, pull through is possible <shrug>
Hackerbilt
Active Member
Use the plate you describe...keep the mounting bolts positioned so the upper is close to the top of the rail and the lower is close to the bottom.
By keeping the bolts splayed like the original design (or as close to that as possible) you gain strength and stability in the mounting area.
Much less likely to crack the frame material over time.
By keeping the bolts splayed like the original design (or as close to that as possible) you gain strength and stability in the mounting area.
Much less likely to crack the frame material over time.
old round fart
Well-Known Member
If you have a 4" frame I think you would be better off to move the second bolt down to a more straight position like the original design. The way it is now all the load puts the bolts in a twist condition to resist the force.
I will not be modifying the mounts. If I can't make them work as-is. If fabrication is required, I'd rather invest in something designed for this application, rather than a compromised version of the F1s.
As it works out in the CAD program, the top mounting bolt will be around 5/8"down from the top of the frame rail...the bottom bolt about 1-1/8" up from the bottom of the rail. They would be positioned at roughly 11 and 5 o-clock.
GAB
Member
This might be an idea for a way to get those mounted without welding or destroying a paint job on the frame. You will need a piece of tubing for the sleeves that is slightly longer than the distance from the inside face of the rectangular tube to the outside face of the opposite wall. The wall thickness of the sleeve should be something like 3/16" so that you get a good large surface for contact Drill the frame on the inside for a hole that is equal to the outside diameter of the sleeve that you plan on using. Slip the sleeve into the hole and using it as a guide, drill a hole in the outside of the rail that is the same size as the bolt that you will use for attaching the shock mount.
This gets the advantage of the sleeve thru style with the two walls supporting the bolt without welding.
This gets the advantage of the sleeve thru style with the two walls supporting the bolt without welding.
This might be an idea for a way to get those mounted without welding or destroying a paint job on the frame. You will need a piece of tubing for the sleeves that is slightly longer than the distance from the inside face of the rectangular tube to the outside face of the opposite wall. The wall thickness of the sleeve should be something like 3/16" so that you get a good large surface for contact Drill the frame on the inside for a hole that is equal to the outside diameter of the sleeve that you plan on using. Slip the sleeve into the hole and using it as a guide, drill a hole in the outside of the rail that is the same size as the bolt that you will use for attaching the shock mount.
This gets the advantage of the sleeve thru style with the two walls supporting the bolt without welding.
I like the idea, and I may use it elsewhere, but for this purpose it will not work. on the opposite side of the frame rail from the shock mounts will be the front crossmember. There will be no access to that side of the frame rail
Similar threads
