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Hard pedal...water in the lines

This is the last time I'm going to comment about this... Yes you have to apply force to it because you want to collapse it quickly to get the job done many stock systems have the valves built into the MC already, not so will the some of the after market MC's. Every car is setup differently, some cars are so low, my cat wouldn't be able to crawl under it, and usually nestled between the frame rails is the MC, a lot lower than the calipers. Every MC has more or less wear and tear than the next (seals leaking down). I might not use them on my vehicle but I will not tell someone, especially on a public forum, NOT to use them. Or at least give them the whys and why nots and let them come up with a decision for them self's.
So, if you don't have them, and you notice your pedal feeling spongy after sitting, add them.
 
This is the last time I'm going to comment about this... Yes you have to apply force to it because you want to collapse it quickly to get the job done many stock systems have the valves built into the MC already, not so will the some of the after market MC's. Every car is setup differently, some cars are so low, my cat wouldn't be able to crawl under it, and usually nestled between the frame rails is the MC, a lot lower than the calipers. Every MC has more or less wear and tear than the next (seals leaking down). I might not use them on my vehicle but I will not tell someone, especially on a public forum, NOT to use them. Or at least give them the whys and why nots and let them come up with a decision for them self's.
So, if you don't have them, and you notice your pedal feeling spongy after sitting, add them.
Not to get in on any side, just thinking about it and one point, there is quite a bit of friction generated by the wheel cylinder pistons and the caliper pistons. This would affect how much force is required to push the piston back in the example of replacing pads, and the fact that it is a sealed system, I would think that would also affect the fluid returning to the mc... idk. I did purchase residual valves for mine when I ordered the brake parts and plan to use them since I bought them, but I question how necessary they really are in reality. What’s the down side of using them? I could imagine noisier rattling pads or excessive pedal travel may result in your system needed them and didn’t have them. Again, just thinking out loud.
 
I'm not sure of the brake pad material...I put the same ones back on to see if my other repairs took care of my hard pedal issue. And yes...I took everything apart for inspection and cleaning. What pads would you guys recommend?
 
You can spend as much as you want (ceramic) but I use the cheapest for they are available every where, easy to replace and will stop it or drag the wheels until it stops. 2000 lbs is not much if you know what I mean and the cheap stuff would stop a 4000/4500 pound car. JMTCW
 
The reason why I'm using residuals is because the lines on my MC are 6" from the ground and the lines on my front discs are 12 3/8" off the ground while the lines on my rear drums are 17" off the ground. I've never experienced any brake problems with that set up. Perhaps, if your car sits higher than mine, especially if your MC lines are several inches higher off the ground, you may not need residuals.

Jim
 
When ever a ? like this comes up , I like to read on the subject ....A column of water (heavier than brake fluid) 1" square & 2 1/2 feet tall (approximately) generates 1 p.s.i. at it's base . Given the size of brake tubing I'd guess that the pressure generated would be miniscule , at best ....
 

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