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Hot Rod Bucket

I would not give that guy my money. I would find someone who would appreciate my business and actually needed it even if it costed me more. Just Me, though.

I was kidding. I really don't know where my glass guy lives. He should have a house like that though if he charges everyone like me. $266 out the door. Only place that would go cheaper was over 120 miles away at $200.
 
One thing that drives the cost of windshield glass up is insurance claims. The number of smash & grab thefts from automobiles is escalating, and glass replacement is costly. That's why I never lock my pickup - just open the door and help yourself (nothing of value is in there) but pleeeez, don't break my window! :confused::sneaky:
 
I was kidding. I really don't know where my glass guy lives. He should have a house like that though if he charges everyone like me. $266 out the door. Only place that would go cheaper was over 120 miles away at $200.

I get it Jim B. It's crazy. Guess they charge as much as they think they can get away with. I would say in your case he really gouged ya. Especially considering the size of your glass.
 
One thing that drives the cost of windshield glass up is insurance claims. The number of smash & grab thefts from automobiles is escalating, and glass replacement is costly. That's why I never lock my pickup - just open the door and help yourself (nothing of value is in there) but pleeeez, don't break my window! :confused::sneaky:
We were just talking about this today. My handy man was telling me that he does the same thing but they still broke his glass. They just walk by and use a spring loaded center punch, break the glass, keep walking. Come back in a few and grab whatever, they don’t even check to see if door is locked.
As far as cost goes, greed. I called to price a windshield for my fiat, very small, in stock, they want over five bills because it is listed as a collector or muscle car. A glass for my truck, three times the size, $125.00..... grrr! Luckily I found a nice used one for the fiat. It cost me nothing, lol... did some horse trading and got a perfect glass, a five speed tranny with low miles in exchange for a pair of doors and a trunk lid leftover on a donor car that more than paid for itself via the parts that I bought it to procure. Those parts, if not sold on Craigslist, would have either ended up in my barn or the scrap yard. Man, I love junk! Lol.
 
Hotrod builder gentleman came over today and looked at Sally. Liked it a lot. He has some cred. Lots of cars, rat rods, fast old iron, altered T's, some muscle cars. Says T Buckets pretty much are just for looks and shouldn't go much over 50mph unless you are real used to them. He is a good guy and true old school. I think he is probably right. My 10 second motorcycle back in the late 80's was the same way...REAL scary if you weren't used to it.
 
Hotrod builder gentleman came over today and looked at Sally. Liked it a lot. He has some cred. Lots of cars, rat rods, fast old iron, altered T's, some muscle cars. Says T Buckets pretty much are just for looks and shouldn't go much over 50mph unless you are real used to them. He is a good guy and true old school. I think he is probably right. My 10 second motorcycle back in the late 80's was the same way...REAL scary if you weren't used to it.

Tell your friend you can't go through life being scared. If the hair on the back of your neck aint standing up and your balls a tingling then you might as well go sit on the front porch.
A T-Bucket aint for everyone and if you've ever had a new girlfriend you would ride her like a wild horse in heat just like you feel when you open up that Bucket hoping it/you were blown and not thrown..


We're all going to die someday, and God willing, I'll be staring right at it or in my sleep.
 
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First Start Up
Pretty happy with this milestone. Two transmission line leaks, fixed one on the spot. The other is at the cooler and will work on that one. Still have a very minor fuel leak right at the fuel pump. Been in there once already and re-did it, still has a very small issue. Otherwise- HAPPY DAYS!!
 
I am still on track to build this completely as a stand alone running chassis without the body. So after I run brake lines and cover the driveshaft tunnel with aluminum panels, it could go for a drive. I still have to wire the whole thing. After that, finish the body and lower it on. The body and aluminum floor pan should be removable, kind of like a funny car. So far, so good.
 
One bad starter. Came from a broken home, did some time in juvi. Thought he was on the right track so I fostered him for a while. Tried to burn my car down so I sent him back to JEGS. Maybe they can rehab him, maybe not. Did my best. :roflmao::roflmao:
 
That was 20 seconds and done. Motor was primed prior to the start and is full of break in oil. (that stuff is not cheap) The break in is next. I think 20 minutes at 2500 rpm is the usual?
 
That was 20 seconds and done. Motor was primed prior to the start and is full of break in oil. (that stuff is not cheap) The break in is next. I think 20 minutes at 2500 rpm is the usual?
Vary the rpm... up and down, you want the lifters spinning... steady rpm can allow them to not spin. I usually set the rpm to about 2500 or so after initial timing set, etc, then rev it up periodically.... usually while cleaning and putting away tools, lol. Then out to put heat and pressure in the cylinders.
 
That was 20 seconds and done. Motor was primed prior to the start and is full of break in oil. (that stuff is not cheap) The break in is next. I think 20 minutes at 2500 rpm is the usual?


For a flat tappet cam, that's pretty much the general recommendation. As fletcherson said, it can't hurt to vary the rpm a bit, but keep 2500 as the minimum.

If it's a roller cam, (as might be more likely being a 383) then you don't need to do break-in at all.

Be sure you have all your timing and fuel issues squared away before your break-in run . . . in the short vid, there was a lot of throttle movement and little to no engine response to it.
 

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