From what I've seen they are very pricey and pricey to rebuild...but they do look good and are adjustable. I'd consider using them if I could afford near $300 each for rebuilt units.
If the appearance of them is not a high priority, I'd go with Armstrong MG-B rear lever shocks...much more available, affordable, and affordably rebuilt. I'm still kicking myself for not thinking of them before I got my shocks...especially bad considering my years restoring and repairing MGs.
If the appearance of them is not a high priority, I'd go with Armstrong MG-B rear lever shocks...much more available, affordable, and affordably rebuilt. I'm still kicking myself for not thinking of them before I got my shocks...especially bad considering my years restoring and repairing MGs.
Here' s an old stock one:
Zandoz, I've been watching MG units on eBay, and that led me to the Houdailles. Five Points Classic Auto Shocks specializes in rebuilding and customizing them. The units have a good rep, used on many cars in the 30's-40's and in racing. I'm bracing myself for $$$ since I have no cores. Big toys for big boys...
Zandoz, I've been watching MG units on eBay, and that led me to the Houdailles. Five Points Classic Auto Shocks specializes in rebuilding and customizing them. The units have a good rep, used on many cars in the 30's-40's and in racing. I'm bracing myself for $$$ since I have no cores. Big toys for big boys...
I have some ebay MG B shock sources, but for some reason it's not letting me post links.
MG Midgets used similar lever shocks, but I do not think they would be suitable, except for light weight cars. The Midget's curb weight was around 1600 lbs. MG Bs curb weight ranged over the years from 2000 to 2300 lbs, but all used the same rear shocks
I have limited access to a hoard of used, NOS, and new MG parts that I could have gotten shocks from...but unfortunately I do not know of him to ever part with anything to outsiders.
MG Midgets used similar lever shocks, but I do not think they would be suitable, except for light weight cars. The Midget's curb weight was around 1600 lbs. MG Bs curb weight ranged over the years from 2000 to 2300 lbs, but all used the same rear shocks
I have limited access to a hoard of used, NOS, and new MG parts that I could have gotten shocks from...but unfortunately I do not know of him to ever part with anything to outsiders.
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golddredger
Member
New guy here. I just put a set of these shocks on my 27t build. They are from the front of a 47 mercury 8 sedan. I will take some pictures tomorrow and show my setup.
golddredger
Member
Here is a couple of shots of my 47 merc front shocks on my 27T. This setup is air bagged and it is fully deflated in the pictures. If you would like to see it at ride height I will get some pics when I get back from the steel supply.
golddredger
Member
Well I guess I have to have ten posts before I can add a picture. So when that happens I will try again.
Well, I ordered yesterday from Five Points, all chrome, $450/pair, no cores reqd. Mathew was very helpful and knowledgeable. Talk about a niche business; I think only two places in the country do this work. When I get them installed I'll post on my project thread with pics. They're pronounced WHO-dale. or WHO-dall, or WHO-die, depending on who's talking.
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golddredger
Member
Wow! $450 is a bit to bite off. I got an estimate of $195 each to rebuild mine so 450 is right there without cores. You gotta want these shocks pretty bad to spend that. One of mine is a leaked but I been reading and if I do a fluid change and get it pretty warm to get the old fluid out it make free up the self adjusting seals and they will seal up again. Got my fingers crossed. I will post pictures of my setup shortly.
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
I see what you are thinking about the geometry change, but if the top bar doesn't deflect, I don't see how the axle could deviate, it should maintain position, or am I not seeing something? I would want to look at if the shock travel would attempt to rotate the axle, spindle via the lower bar it's replacing in travel, if so, wouldn't it be fighting the top bar by pushing or pulling the bottom of the axle? Or would it bind? Just an observation of the sketch, I am not looking at your car.
I think I have to second this point. I would not try any direct connection of the shock arm to the axle or links. I'd be planning on at least a short dog bone.
Hackerbilt
Active Member
I have an idea for the shock:
...it would replace the lower 4-bar and attach to the batwing. The 4-bars are 43" and the shock arm is 10". There would be some small change in caster as the axle moved up and down.
Comments? Am I bonkers?
I don't know if you're bonkers or not...but this idea has a lot more going against it than for it.
I wouldn't even consider it myself.
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