Plumbing residual valves
- Thread starter KAA
- Start date
Francis Blake
Active Member
I understand what you want to do but it would be easier to cut onto the brake line a few inches from the mc and install them the standard way. If you need a double flair tool buy a good one the cheap ones are hard to use and easy to mess up with, I speak from experience.
Dirt-T
Member
I know you are wanting an adaptor for 3/8 -IFF to 1/8" male pipe which I don't belive they make. That being said I went to a 3/8" IFF to AN-3 then used 3/16" brake line with AN fittings. It worked great. The only special tool is a 39* flare tool. If you would like some pictures I'll post them
Dirt t
Dirt t
Dirt-T
Member
Sorry fat filgers 37* flaring tool.
Thanks everyone. SStock, You have the same brake setup as I do. I have the prop. valve to the front and the brake rod is in the same hole in the pedal but I don't have the residual valves. My problem is I can't lock the brakes at all and it just slow to stop. Does yours work ok or did you have to change something after you drove it and this picture was taken?
Thank sstock. Yea I've got the same rear axle you have with 31" on back and 135 on front. but the thing won't stop. Going to put the valves in and hope that fixes it.
I think residual valves are a Commy plot to sap and impurify all of our our precious bodily fluids. I have two that I bought years ago and they are still hanging on the garage pegboard. I've never heard anyone say anything positive about them.
KAA, have you bled your system? Air could keep it from locking.
KAA, have you bled your system? Air could keep it from locking.
Yea I've tried everything else. Going to drill another hole in the pedal a little bit higher as soon as I borrow a right angle drill. See if I can get more leverage. But I've got the valves so I'm going to try that first.
Sounds like you have other problems that need addressing first KAA.
If the pedal goes a long way down before the brakes start working, but then work good with the second pump, residuals may fix it as they will hold a little pressure in the system and keep the disc pads up against the rotor etc,, so as soon as you push the pedal they'll work.
If you have high pedal pressure and can't push hard enough to lock the brakes, the master cylinder bore is too big. Increasing the leverage will help , but won't provide as much stroke either, so you may still be in trouble, It's all a combination of bore/stroke/line pressure etc.
If the pedal goes a long way down before the brakes start working, but then work good with the second pump, residuals may fix it as they will hold a little pressure in the system and keep the disc pads up against the rotor etc,, so as soon as you push the pedal they'll work.
If you have high pedal pressure and can't push hard enough to lock the brakes, the master cylinder bore is too big. Increasing the leverage will help , but won't provide as much stroke either, so you may still be in trouble, It's all a combination of bore/stroke/line pressure etc.
Right now I'm waiting on some parts and for it to warm up some. Been to wet out. Thought about a smaller m/c and talked to Pat Anderson about it but have not come up with one. Thanks for everyones help.
Is it disc on front and drum on rear? Does neither end lock up? I'm guessing you've adjusted all 4 corners for a teensie drag. Whose m/c are you using? And what brake fluid are you using? Could it have water in it from sitting open? Trying to cover all bases here, this just smells funny. Never heard of a T that couldn't lock the brakes real easy.
Well this may be your first. Disc front drum rear. 1" bore m/c, Dot 5 fluid. If I'm doing 25 mph and something runs out in front of me 25' away well...............You can't lock them up.
1" bore master cylinder is way too large 3/4 bore is way large enough. The bigger the mc related to the wheel cylinders the greater the effort required to apply the brakes.Well I installed the residual valves front and back, adjust the rear drum brakes, blead the whole system. The brakes MAY be a little better but not enough to really notice. The only thing I haven't changed is the m/c. It's a 1" bore like Spirit uses and on sstocks car above. Any ideas?
Duke
Member
I have Disc in front and Drum in the back. The rear is out of an S-10 and I had hell getting good brakes. I also have a proportioning valve. I ended up with no residual valves and the front brake line going to the back port on the MC, and Back drums going to the front port. The proportioning valve is in the Front (disc) line adjusted to about 50 %. I now have excellent brakes. I don't remember for sure if there was a residual valve inside any ports on the MC - but I seem to remember taking one out of the rear port, but not sure about that. I know that this isn't the recommended procedure, but the standard procedure did not work.
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