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Racthet RIde

Got the transmission tunnel cut out and motor/trans lowered into place. Two things that I am really stewing over. Channeling the body and how low I want the oil pan. As of right now I have roughly 5" clearance from a stock oil pan. Some of the reasoning for getting the motor so low is allow a 4" tall air cleaner to fit under hood. I may end up raising the motor by 1" but I am going to sleep on it for now.
IMAG0871.jpg
IMAG0873.jpg
 
I also ran tape as suggested by others to kind of get the feel for the flow of things. I am going to try and make a cardboard hood to get a better feel for it. Also was a guy gave me this tank and I am thinking it is about the right size. Need to find that handy online calculator for determining tank volume. I would say it about 5 gallons. Good for 50 to 60 miles I would assume.
IMAG0886.jpg IMAG0889.jpg
 
That appears to be an old air tank , if that's the case I'd bet the inside is full of rust & sludge!! Just a word of caution.
dave
 
2old2fast said:
That appears to be an old air tank , if that's the case I'd bet the inside is full of rust & sludge!! Just a word of caution.
dave
Click to expand...

Yes it is an old air tank. I can see thru the fitting on the tank and it appears while it has some rust it is not to bad. I saw some other post of people using some older tanks and using muratic acid I believe to clean the inside before treating the tank. Mostly wanted to get a visual on the size of tank I would like to have. By the time I buy everything to do this tank I probably could buy a new one but at least I can look for a certain size that I feel fits the build.
 
After looking at some other T Bucket pictures and then the rear picture above with the tank, I don't like the smaller tank. Guess it served it's purpose. Can always use another air tank around home. LOL I never did like to turn down free stuff!
 
RatchetRob said:
Got the transmission tunnel cut out and motor/trans lowered into place. Two things that I am really stewing over. Channeling the body and how low I want the oil pan. As of right now I have roughly 5" clearance from a stock oil pan. Some of the reasoning for getting the motor so low is allow a 4" tall air cleaner to fit under hood. I may end up raising the motor by 1" but I am going to sleep on it for now.
View attachment 9205
View attachment 9204
Click to expand...

I have 3" ground clearance on my Slamgard pan and have had no problems with it. So instead of raising the body 1" why not lower the engine 1" and that would still give you 4" of ground clearance which should be more than enough clearance especially with a Slangard pan. IMHO

Jim
 
RatchetRob said:
I also ran tape as suggested by others to kind of get the feel for the flow of things. I am going to try and make a cardboard hood to get a better feel for it. Also was a guy gave me this tank and I am thinking it is about the right size. Need to find that handy online calculator for determining tank volume. I would say it about 5 gallons. Good for 50 to 60 miles I would assume.
View attachment 9206 View attachment 9207
Click to expand...

Here is a link to calculate a tank volume in gallons: http://www.dep.state.pa.us/dep/deputate/waterops/redesign/calculators/volcalchtm.htm

Jim
 
Another area of concern is the drive shaft. Looks like the angle is good and lines up well but it will be a really short shaft. From the rear yoke to the output shaft is only 12 inches. Is there a rule to follow on length of shaft?
 
RatchetRob said:
Another area of concern is the drive shaft. Looks like the angle is good and lines up well but it will be a really short shaft. From the rear yoke to the output shaft is only 12 inches. Is there a rule to follow on length of shaft?
Click to expand...

No rule that I know of. Some guys have a even shorter shaft than what you are planning on.

Jim
 
Nothing as of yet. They have been there since Wed. and will remain until at least Thursday. Right now they are running a whole gauntlet of test. We have been dealing with this for the last couple years. She just gets sick for no apparent reasons. Side pains and nausea. Sometimes worse than others. Went through several doctors and a ton of test already along with one surgery. Still no diagnosis or relief. She is 21 and had to withdrawl from University of Iowa due to her re-occurring symptoms. Some Doctors have hinted at her making things up yet we constantly see the effects (nausea) and no one could "fake" the pain for so many times. Finally we had enough and convinced them to send her somewhere we felt confident they could find the answer. Scary to think what that may be but sooner we know the sooner they can treat her. Although the first day they "forgot" her allergic reaction to the dye they use for MRI and that seems to cast a shadow over our faith in Mayo Clinic. How do you "forget" when the paper work CLEARLY stated such. Thanks for the thoughts and I will post something when I know. Until then we can only hold onto faith. Thanks
 
Oh man. Very sorry to hear about all that. We went through that with my son for years when he was very young and they could never find anything wrong other than some minor gastrointestinal issues. but it's very frustrating to go through all the tests and all the time with no relief. Eventually it just stopped on its own. We still don't know what it was. I really hope that you guys can get it resolved soon. Good luck and please keep us posted.
 
The yoke on my drive shaft was longer than the shaft center to center and I put over 150,000 hard miles with no problems so don't worry about a short drive shaft! John
 
When it comes to the four link suspension in the rear. Which of these two ends would you use and what you think the pros and cons of each is. The Bushing type ends you can get the shank in straight or 7 deg. or 11 degree angles. I would think the angle is meant to take the side load away when you angle the bars toward center (of course you have to run a panhard bar or similar). This correct?1750506_L.jpg 91008002_L_17720a32.jpg
 
I much prefer the rod ends over the heim joint because I believe that they are stronger.

Jim
 
I'm not too familiar with the bushed ends. I imagine they would take some of the harshness out as they are cushioned as opposed to the heim (spherical) rod ends which are not. Unless you get the teflon lined ones which provide a little cusion, but not much. I used to sell the spherical ends, so I can relate some info on those. As far as strength goes, the spherical ends can be had in many different strengths to handle pretty much any type of load. The ones I'm using on my rear radius rods are QA1 Chromoly (5/8"x5/8") and are rated at 18,000lb ultimate radial static load and 5/8"x1/2" rated at 19,300lb. More than strong enough. Their HM series in the same size can handle over 40,000lbs. I'm sure the others are more than adequate also. The nice thing about the heim ends is that they can work at any angle (misalignment) up to the max rated. Mine can work safely up to 26 degrees. Some others are less, some are more like the high-misalignment series which can operate between 55-65 degrees. The bushed ones like above will have a fixed alignment. That's why they offer the different angled versions. You can't run them misaligned because it will squish the rubber or nylon liner and quickly ruin it or wear it out.
 
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