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Restoring A T bucket that sat 10 + years

G'Day Guy,
Agree with the "air in the line" comments. Is there a section of the RH side line that goes up and over (like a loop) that is where the air will be, A lot of times a push on the master isn't enough to push the air bubble forward in the line because it doesn't displace enough fluid. I've been caught also by not bench bleeding the master cylinder. (can be done on the car just needs the first joint cracked to bleed the air from the port)
Hope this is helpful.
Regards,
 
I bought one of those power bleeders from Harbor Freight. It was a piece of crap. I ended up doing it the old fashioned way!
 
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I found that putting thread sealant on the bleeders, then installing a piece of hose on them and submersing the other end in a container with fluid covering it to create a check valve, then open the bleeder and simply cycle the master and flush fluid and air through is the simplest method and can be done alone. Just don’t pump the master dry. Farthest from the master to the closest, as normal.
 
I bought one of those power bleeders from Harbor Freight. It was a piece of crap. I ended up doing it the old fashioned way!


I ordered this one from Amazon a good while back, and so far it's made things comparatively easy to do without a helper.

Bleeder_.jpg

replace the "dot" with a . in your browser, for some reason the link won't post

https://www.amazon dot com/gp/product/B00CJ5E1GS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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Do you have through the frame fittings? They have a good air trap in them. Try raising that side as high as you can to help air get out. This seems to be a long time problem. Have you replaced flex line and wheel cylinder yet?
 
Sorry I have been busy with rental home problems, I went an hour away today to get a new master takes about two hours to install in a very bad location just no room I did find a problem I measured the throw arm for the master and I have been putting it back in the way it was but the adjuster was wrong almost an inch short could be part of the problem, I plan on bleeding later tomorrow will let everyone know what's happening ,
 
Do you have through the frame fittings? They have a good air trap in them. Try raising that side as high as you can to help air get out. This seems to be a long time problem. Have you replaced flex line and wheel cylinder yet?
All wheel cylinders are new , flex lines replaced last week , but then the master #2 started leaking
 
Rental home issues, lol... I can relate. We own some rentals. Soon to be sold so I can relocate out of Ohio. They have been good to us, but a pita at times.
 
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Rental home issues, lol... I can relate. We own some rentals. Soon to be sold so I can relocate out of Ohio. They have been good to us, but a pita at times.
I had 2 rentals but when my wife passed away one got deeded to my daughter, as long as she pays the mortgage, I finished the bleeding this morning but it's been raining two days now . I also replaced a cross over hose that had a drip .The front system seemed to bleed much faster this time I am just hoping for the best need to move on to something else. I should look into hooking up an emergency break , the cables come out of the rears but end under the car ,
 
I had 2 rentals but when my wife passed away one got deeded to my daughter, as long as she pays the mortgage, I finished the bleeding this morning but it's been raining two days now . I also replaced a cross over hose that had a drip .The front system seemed to bleed much faster this time I am just hoping for the best need to move on to something else. I should look into hooking up an emergency break , the cables come out of the rears but end under the car ,



I made my own with parts from the HELP section at Advance Auto. Made couplings out of aluminum hex about 3 inches long with a hole all the way through the length and 2 set screw on each end to hold the cables. But if yours has the balls swaged on them, the they also had the factory type couplers.
 


I made my own with parts from the HELP section at Advance Auto. Made couplings out of aluminum hex about 3 inches long with a hole all the way through the length and 2 set screw on each end to hold the cables. But if yours has the balls swaged on them, the they also had the factory type couplers.
I will have to check but I think the balls are on the end of the cables , will need some ideas to hook that up
 
They use to have the couplers and the T adjuster that goes from the 2 rear cables to the e-brake cable. Measure the size of the ball ends before you go looking.
 
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I took my car down to friend in Crystal river with a garage , he says could be play in steering box making it pull left after replacing everything on the breaks have same problem . He also noticed a little play in the front left wheel told me to add a shim to the king pin
 
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my play is in this joint at the end of the steering arm not sure what they call it or how to measure to get correct one i am trying to replace anything that's not tight
 
Like I said above I ordered drag links, one had too much play , dose anyone know if the steering box has too much play will that cause a pull left or right , I have a little over an inch play it dose seem like too much when driving. I had someone move the steering wheel back and forth while the front end is lifted and found the drag link had a lot of play in it so I ordered them today . But I might need a steering box I have identified it as a Corvair box see them online around $200 several places
 
That is called a rod end. It is sized by the threads in the male end and the hole in the end.
Yes , I found it to have 18 threads and a 5/8" hole , but I might also need a steering box that has a lot of play also not sure if that would cause this problem
 
I would suspect that if it pulls when you step on the brake pedal it’s in the brakes.
Play in the steering would probably make it wander.
 

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