Shock mounting??

[Fourdy]

Thanks to your help with shocks, I ordered a couple of monroe 5752 shocks for the front of my 24T cpe. I can't find anywhere that tells me what the mounting length should be. In other words, if the shock say would have a 4" travel, do I mount it centered? 2" of travel each way? Maybe I give a little more travel on the up side?

Your help and expertise will be most appreciated.

Thanks again,

Fourdy

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[Rick]

I'm no expert as you'll see.(other posts coming)But logic tells me if the shocks are mounted with the car sitting no jacks that half way two up two down would be the way to go.

 

[rb61069]

The mounting height depends on the weight on the shock and what weight the shock is designed for.

 

[Rick]

There is no weight on the shock in the static position IE just sitting.I agree with you on the weight of the car so you dont want a Mack truck shock on a 2000lb car.

 

[Brucer]

mounting length can vary on coilover shocks. you can have more or less rebound length than you do dampening...

depends on the shock maufacturer probably, you need to check and make sure.

i know ive mounted coilovers in the past that were not centered on the stroke like your stating......

 

[Youngster]

you probably already know this but install the shocks with the chassis at ride heigth. you be surprised how many don't.

Ron

 

[Rick]

I'm no expert as you'll see.(other posts coming)But logic tells me if the shocks are mounted with the car sitting no jacks that half way two up two down would be the way to go.
Thats what i said 4 posts ago Ron.

 

[Youngster]

opps...my bad.......

Ron

 

[Fourdy]

I was kind of hoping that someone had installed shocks, like the 5752 and noted the how you set the travel spacing. Our T's must weigh pretty close.

Has anyone had to change the mounting length to correct a travel problem?

Thanks again,

Fourdy

 

[fluidfloyd]

In other words, if the shock say would have a 4" travel, do I mount it centered? 2" of travel each way? Maybe I give a little more travel on the up side?

Fourdy,

My thinking has always been to set the shock at static ride height with 2/3 of the chrome shaft extended. This allows you to have 2.7" of compression travel and should keep you out of shock bottoming on rough roads. The shock will do most of it's work in the compression cycle of travel. Just my thoughts on the subject.

George

 

[Fourdy]

Thank you. I will try that.

Fourdy


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[Fourdy]

This is what I came up with. 3/8" material for the shock top. Bottom bracket welded to the axle.

Monroe 5752 shocks.

If the pic comes out okay.

Fourdy

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[Ted Brown]

If you are going to just bolt the bracket to the frame (no welding) I do believe I would use 4 bolts, one in each corner of that mount. That will also get the bolts closer to the edges of the frame, much stronger there... or weld in tube spacers into the frame that the bolt can tighten up on... Lookin good otherwise...

 

[Youngster]

looks good... don't think i would go to 4 bolts if you sleeve it as ted suggested. should be enough area to spread the stress out over. your car..you be the judge.

is that the part # for the plymouth shocks??

Ron

 

[Fourdy]

I drilled the frame and welded a nut into the hole to accept the bolt. Didn't feel the frame thickness was enough.

Youngster,
I was told that the shock fit early cads, chrysler, plymouth etc. when I ordered it.

Thanks to all.

Fourdy

 

[Youngster]

ok thanks...i didn't have the monroe pt #

Ron

 

[Ted Brown]

I drilled the frame and welded a nut into the hole to accept the bolt. Didn't feel the frame thickness was enough.

Youngster,
I was told that the shock fit early cads, chrysler, plymouth etc. when I ordered it.

Thanks to all.

Fourdy

If your frame is only .120 wall, two nuts welded into the side of the frame is not enough, as the shock will work that mount back and forth, till it breaks out of the frame. Will not happen over night, but it will happen...

 

[Fourdy]

Okay,

When I do the final welding on the frame, I will drill thru the nuts and put a tube all the way thru the frame, welded on both ends and threaded for the bolts.

Sound okay?

I would rather do it right now than repair something later. I will probably sell this car later and of course I want it done safely.

Fourdy

 

[Ted Brown]

Okay,

When I do the final welding on the frame, I will drill thru the nuts and put a tube all the way thru the frame, welded on both ends and threaded for the bolts.

Sound okay?

I would rather do it right now than repair something later. I will probably sell this car later and of course I want it done safely.



Fourdy

Weld in a tube, and just run the bolt all the way through, with a lock nut on the back side of the frame, no need to thread anything...

 

[Youngster]

that's a good idea. anything you can do to spread that stress out is to your advantage. the tube and bolt set up ted refers to is a good one also but it looks as though your front crossmenber is in the way for that.

Ron