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The excitement is building


Little Update . . . Long Overdue . . . . And some feedback needed

Still working 6+ days a week, so no time to make any build progress, but I've been steadily getting in new bits for the project.

All my electrical items from Amazon are here and organized, 31 rolls of wire from just looking at my Amazon recent orders . . . countless relays and connectors and terminals . . I could probably do 3 more T's and still have tons left over . . . .
And in spite of trying to anticipate every possible scenario and need, no doubt I'll find there's something(s) I forgot . . . . which I'll blame on old age and senility . . . and maybe the democrats

I also got the MSD timing light with the internal batteries since my battery is under the seat, and my regular light is not multi-spark compatible.

Having gotten all the electrical items from Amazon, I hit up Speedway and got the upgraded headlights I mentioned in another thread, and also the polished stainless steel buckets for them. I know the chrome buckets that came with my kit look nice while in the boxes, but it won't take long in this climate before they turn to rust, so better to go stainless from the start.


Anyway . . . .

I ordered these wheelie bars after searching all the pics and vids of T's with bars I could find . . .(notice I ordered the blue ones) and got the extra set of bolt on mounts.

Santa said I was extra nice this year and threw in a set of real aluminum, Milodon fabricated valve covers with my wheelie bar order. The ones that come on the engine are actually plastic, and while they look pretty nice, they're still plastic fakes of the real thing, which to me, really cheapens the project overall.


Now for some feedback, please . . . . . .

As some previous posts indicate, I need to raise the front end to get some more ground clearance for the lower "chin" of the '34 style grill shell . . . . as is, it just barely clears a 2X4 flat on the ground.

To that end I got a new spring, "eyes down" and a couple spacers, which should get another 1" to 1.5".

From following other "front end raising" threads, the idea of adding material between the perch and spring is the usual go to solution, but that changes the radius rod angle and to my eyes, seems to make the frame look more "disconnected" from the suspension when you add more than half an inch or so.


Alternatively, taller tires would get me added ground clearance plus the inch to inch and a half from the spring and small spacer thickness, . . . . . without changing anything all that significant relative to the suspension.

I currently have 26 X 8R-15's on 7 inch wheels on the front and 33 X 22R-15's on the rear

The narrowest 28" tires are 10 wide and need 8 inch wheels

The narrowest 30" tires are 12 wide and need 10 inch wheels

I'm seriously looking at going to the 30 X 12R-15's with new 10 inch wheels for the front, which would cumulatively give me about 5 to 6 inches of clearance under the grill shell chin. The 10 inch wheels will allow for another inch of backspacing, so it's not adding too much more leverage against the knuckle.

(If it seems I'm being a bit over-protective of the grill shell, to replace a broken one is right at $1000 plus a minimum 3 month lead time.)


Anyway . . . .

Does anyone have any feedback on the pros or cons of running wide front tires/wheels, . . . . . I like the bigs and littles look, but also think 12 wides on the front could have a pretty cool staggered look on a 27 with its curved rear deck.

Thoughts please . . . . .

 
I think a 10” wide tire is to wide. I don’t understand the aversion to spacers under the spring. Can you put a jack under the frame and leave the front wheels on the ground and jack it up to give the clearance you need and look at it? I don’t think it will look broken.
 
I think a 10” wide tire is to wide. I don’t understand the aversion to spacers under the spring. Can you put a jack under the frame and leave the front wheels on the ground and jack it up to give the clearance you need and look at it? I don’t think it will look broken.


I might give that a try . . . spacing the spring an inch and a half to two inches max, below the perch would give the max extension of the shocks as well . . . . the spring change and a couple of the Speedway spacers, (1/4" each) should have the shocks close to full extension already, so adding more spacers would just need new longer shocks, but it'll also change the steering rod angle by a more noticeable amount

Taller tires just seems like the best way to gain some ground clearance without jacking all the steering and suspension geometry, but if I want to keep all the tires the same pattern, (and I do) I'd have to go wider to get the larger diameter.
 
For what it’s worth, I’m a big fan of the big and little tire setup. When you go the direction of the very wide front tires it changes the whole look. Not that it’s bad but it gives the bucket the “Indy Car” look. Just my opinion.
 
Do you have anyone over there with the skills to shorten the lower half of the shell and grill?

front.jpg
 
My build buddy always said, 'just so it clears a house brick, that's enough'.

One thing I will say is that it doesn't take long to modify your driving to avoid things like pot holes bumps and kerbs.

I have just a little more than the front tyre height, scrub line is almost nothing, but it is there.

front end.JPG
 
That’s thinking outside the box, Chopp!
Here in Illinois it’s pretty difficult to avoid pot holes, etc. because they’re everywhere. There are certain roads I just avoid. Some of those rough roads will shake the fillings out of your teeth. Early on in my build I played with the leaves in the front spring, adding or deleting a couple of leaves until I got it where I wanted it. That’s pretty easy and it worked ok for me.
 
That’s thinking outside the box, Chopp!

Since it's the grill causing the problem, I'd change it.

I had the same kind of issue with the area I'm working on now behind my seat backs. I literally obsessed over it for years.

With the seat shells in place, it wasn't giving me an even gap with what needed to happen. Finally it dawned on me to go ahead and make that part of the tub the right way. And the change the tops of the set shells to jive with the body. So simple, but I never saw it.
 
A 30" diameter tire is 4" taller than a 26" tire. But , only 1/2 of that measurement is actually affecting the ground clearance. 4"s will become 2"s until it's compressed by the engine's weight. Then your ground clearance becomes approximately 1 1/2"s. Only 1/2 of the tire contacts the ground , the other 1/2 is always in the air. How do i know ? Been there & was rudely awakened when the jacked up body was lowered back to the ground. My personal reaction was DUH !!?? A radiator shell modification my be the easiest way to fix your problem in this particular situation. Is your radiator shell made of fiberglass ?
 
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A radiator shell modification my be the easiest way to fix your problem in this particular situation. Is your radiator shell made of fiberglass ?

That kind of work is in your wheelhouse, DonnyRay, but for most of us, it's majorly beyond our skill sets. When faced with the same issue during my build, using a Deuce Grill shell, I just whacked the bottom of it off - it's out of sight anyway. In Darlene's case, her grill shell is right out front, and a key feature of the front-end look.

A.jpg IGs 27b.jpg
 
SP2332.600.jpg SP2332-1.600.jpg This is a Spirit Industries radiator shell for a 34 ford. It can definitely be shortened. The grill would have to be modified also. It's up to you Darlene......
 
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Course, you could leave the grill shell and see (while holding your head in fear) actually how much of it would actually get 'sanded off' in the first 100 miles or so and make a decision from there.

My buddy's son had a 'drift Nissan' with virtually no ground clearance at all. Once in a while, on UK roads, and they are bad, it used to ground out, but not often.
He drove it as needed. By the way it was one of the fasted cars I have ever been in.
G
 
To recap a bit, The grill shell is one of my favorite aesthetics, not about to change that at all.

I waited another 3 months to have that change made to the original order. . . . . . I saw it in a pic and just absolutely had to have it

I think it gives a mean-aggressive look. . .. a whole different personality to the car.

I know 4" taller tires gets me only 2" more ground clearance

I have a new spring with the "eyes down" (original is eyes up) that will add 1" of clearance

I have several of the Speedway 1/4" spring spacers that I could add for another 1/2 to 3/4 inches of additional clearance, so that's another 1-1/2" added to what I have now. (just over 1-1/2")

So effectively, the taller tire addition would add to the total of 3" or so, that the new spring and spacers get me. . . . 2 inches of additional height from 4" taller tires would get me just over 5" total clearance under the grill shell.

That should be plenty as long as I do my part and pay attention to my speed and the road surface irregularities.


Since no one's brought up any "driveability" issues, I'll assume that other than increased steering effort, there's not any real downsides.

Snagged this screen shot from a video . . . . same grill shell as mine with tires about as wide as I'm looking at . . . Gotta love the overall look with the Duval windshield . . .


Wide Tires 1.JPG
 
If that's what you want then go for it.

With the HP you have... drivability, is not a condition I would consider a real concern.
You do now that in reality, you will have a short wheelbase competition altered on the road, don't you.
 
Wider front tires would require a little more muscle to steer. Sitting still in a parking lot requires the most muscle. Once the car is rolling the steering effort lessens. Darlene , this is your build. If you want wider tires , go for it. 4" to 5" ground clearance is good. If you can stand a beer can under your frame , that's great.
 
I have the same grill shell as you. Mine clears the pavement about 5" maybe a tad less. So far 10K + miles it has never met the pavement. I worry more about smacking a curb.
Like you, I had a chopped 32 grill, and just had to have the 33/34 style.
 
If you have 5" of clearance. I think that's plenty! You're not driving down the back roads of Wisconsin!
 

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