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1926 Model T RPU

Nice. Love the grill shell.

Might be wrong here but with unequal RR lengths, the axle will tilt forwards and backwards as the axle moves up and down. How do I know? The 3 bar on the front axle of the T (Long from the chassis and short from the front X member to the axle centre) changes its caster by 1/2* over the suspension movement I have. That was measured with a digital inclinometer.

G
 
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Nice. Love the grill shell.

Might be wrong here but with unequal RR lengths, the axle will tilt forwards and backwards as the axle moves up and down. How do I know? The 3 bar on the front axle of the T (Long from the chassis and short from the front X member to the axle centre) changes its caster by 1/2* over the suspension movement I have. That was measured with a digital inclinometer.

G
Thanks.

And, yes. For every 1" of vertical suspension movement the axle will yield < 1.5* of controlled pinion movement.
 
Thanks.

And, yes. For every 1" of vertical suspension movement the axle will yield < 1.5* of controlled pinion movement.


Only reason I ask is because I was wondering about the spring mounts and constant stress they would be under due to the axle 'tilt'.
G
 
Ford 1928 Model A grill shell.
to get the look i wanted i had to chop 4" of height out of it and notch it to fit inside the frame rails.
I also added some 1/4 rod to give it that hot rod look
a 1965 ford falcon 3 row radiator for a V8 just fits inside.









I love what you did with that shell! I'm hoping to do something similar with the 1920 Hupmobile shell that I have...but hopefully with the face of the shell between the crossmember and the spring. I may have to contract you to do the 1/4" rod work.
 
Am i missing something? Why does everyone think I need so much suspension travel? Are you guys jumping these things Dukes of Hazzard style?

The chassis will have maybe 4" of ground clearance MAX. I figure 1.5" of up stroke and 1.5" droop for the shock MAX. Im not going to get into the math and design aspects of it.

I am not expecting this car to perform like a super car. Its a T-bucket rolling around with a old tired V8 on mono inverted leaf springs while i'm sitting in a fiberglass bath tub with manual steering and brakes.

In the spirit of hot rodding, can we move on...
 
I don't think anyone's dissing your plan , but if you actually drive it on public highways , at road speed , that small a suspension travel is going to yield a very harsh ride . As an example , I have 3" up & down & I would rate mine as "stiff"...
dave
 
View of the internal cage. It comes apart in 3 parts so it can be installed inside the body.

 
I love what you did with that shell! I'm hoping to do something similar with the 1920 Hupmobile shell that I have...but hopefully with the face of the shell between the crossmember and the spring. I may have to contract you to do the 1/4" rod work.

This is what i did.
I used a 1 to 2 ratio for the spacing of the rod. 0.25" rod + 2x0.25" space = 0.75" divide into grill opening width = number of rods needed X grill opening height = rod in linear inches divide by 12 = rod material need in linear feet. To install i made sure the first rod was perfect and tacked it in. then using .05" spacers for a jig (two old sockets) i worked my way across the grill.
 
I can't believe how fast you're building this. Great fab work.
 
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Am i missing something? Why does everyone think I need so much suspension travel? Are you guys jumping these things Dukes of Hazzard style?

The chassis will have maybe 4" of ground clearance MAX. I figure 1.5" of up stroke and 1.5" droop for the shock MAX. Im not going to get into the math and design aspects of it.

I am not expecting this car to perform like a super car. Its a T-bucket rolling around with a old tired V8 on mono inverted leaf springs while i'm sitting in a fiberglass bath tub with manual steering and brakes.

In the spirit of hot rodding, can we move on...

Hang on a moment buddy. I was just asking questions, no more, no less. I have no doubts about your technological or fabrication skills. I just thought you may have found something some of us old farts have missed.
We are not here to find fault with your Rod, just; as is normal with forums; see if you have new slant on things.

I have been, on many occasions, told I have got things wrong, only to prove the questioners wrong.

We enjoy your posts so a chill and a beer may be in order.
Gerry
 
One of the purposes of this forum is to discuss different builds that are presented here. You have no control over the comments or the length of the discussion. And we, as a group, have no control over the
the way your project is presented or the speed in which it seems to be being completed.
You gotta remember, for a lotta people here, this is not our first rodeo either.
Just like a bunch of chickens, there will quiet periods, then something will catch their attention. Then lots of squawking, hunting and pecking then back to silence. They're watching. Waiting.
As for not reinventing the wheel, NEHR/Detroit Speedcraft comes to mind.

John
 
Gerry,


Not to be rude. My name is not “Buddy”.


Let me start by saying when I address an individual I will use their screen name, as it is the polite thing to do. Addressing someone as buddy, pal, dude, or “hey you” is disrespectful and aggressive. Your tone may be passive, but that does not translate well in the written word.


Next, my statement was not directed at anyone. It was a blanket statement.
I am sorry if you felt I was attacking you.


To be fair and address your statement about the spring mounts.


Yes, the angle of attachment will change in relationship to the frame mounted side of the spring. This movement should be absorbed by some slight spring twist and give in the spring bushings. As for the strength of the spring mounts in question, I used 3/8” plate mild steel attached on two planes with over 60” of single pass welded mating surface. I used ER70S - .035 mild steel MIG welding wire with a yield strength of 70,000 PSI.



Goal: Big smokey burn-out.



Gif
 

I am building this car/truck for my enjoyment. As with most of my projects, I tend to enjoy the design and fabrication as much as the final result.


I am more than happy to take you all along for the ride…


Gif
 

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