1926 Model T RPU

[Zandoz]

This is what i did.
I used a 1 to 2 ratio for the spacing of the rod. 0.25" rod + 2x0.25" space = 0.75" divide into grill opening width = number of rods needed X grill opening height = rod in linear inches divide by 12 = rod material need in linear feet. To install i made sure the first rod was perfect and tacked it in. then using .05" spacers for a jig (two old sockets) i worked my way across the grill.

As far as I can tell, you have the spacing perfect. Unfortunately I do not have the welding skills or equipment to pull it off.

 

[Gerry]

Gerry,


Not to be rude. My name is not “Buddy”.


Let me start by saying when I address an individual I will use their screen name, as it is the polite thing to do. Addressing someone as buddy, pal, dude, or “hey you” is disrespectful and aggressive. Your tone may be passive, but that does not translate well in the written word.


Next, my statement was not directed at anyone. It was a blanket statement.
I am sorry if you felt I was attacking you.


To be fair and address your statement about the spring mounts.


Yes, the angle of attachment will change in relationship to the frame mounted side of the spring. This movement should be absorbed by some slight spring twist and give in the spring bushings. As for the strength of the spring mounts in question, I used 3/8” plate mild steel attached on two planes with over 60” of single pass welded mating surface. I used ER70S - .035 mild steel MIG welding wire with a yield strength of 70,000 PSI.



Goal: Big smokey burn-out.



Gif

Best I butt out from your thread then.
PS I sign my post with my given name!!!!

 

[fluidfloyd]

I like this build.

Absolutely!

 

[fluidfloyd]

Lot of info on the net.

But here is a link to an easy explanation.
Tuning 4 Link Rear Suspensions for the Drag Strip

And here are the calculations for my setup. I targeted a neutral setting.

Looks like you are right on target. I have used that program but when IRS/IFS designs are in play I use this one.
SusProg3D - Suspension by Design
Found it in 2004 while building a recreation of the Reventlow Scarab of 1958. Forwarded the link up to Art Morrison and now that is their primary go to program. Much user friendly then the Bill Mitchell program and less expensive. I have been playing with a rear system for an in house bucket and it involves short upper locators much like yours and i see no real issues. I will be following this build!

George

 

[gif]

As far as I can tell, you have the spacing perfect. Unfortunately I do not have the welding skills or equipment to pull it off.

You might find this a good read.

Golden ratio - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[gif]

Best I butt out from your thread then.
PS I sign my post with my given name!!!!

Gerry,

No ill will intended.
I implore you to stay.
I have much more to share on this build.

And my friends call me Gif...

 

[gif]

Looks like you are right on target. I have used that program but when IRS/IFS designs are in play I use this one.
SusProg3D - Suspension by Design
Found it in 2004 while building a recreation of the Reventlow Scarab of 1958. Forwarded the link up to Art Morrison and now that is their primary go to program. Much user friendly then the Bill Mitchell program and less expensive. I have been playing with a rear system for an in house bucket and it involves short upper locators much like yours and i see no real issues. I will be following this build!

George

that looks like a very powerful program.

 

[JeffK]

Ford 1928 Model A grill shell.
to get the look i wanted i had to chop 4" of height out of it and notch it to fit inside the frame rails.
I also added some 1/4 rod to give it that hot rod look
a 1965 ford falcon 3 row radiator for a V8 just fits inside.

So, you just cut the height 4" at the same place you notched it for the frame and welded it back together? I have had my eye on the Speedway A grill with the filled hole for a while now.

 

[gif]

So, you just cut the height 4" at the same place you notched it for the frame and welded it back together? I have had my eye on the Speedway A grill with the filled hole for a while now.

Yes, considerations were radiator fitment, ground clearance and relationship the the imaginary hood line.

 

[JeffK]

Yes, considerations were radiator fitment, ground clearance and relationship the the imaginary hood line.

Thanks, It came out nice. I may not have to chop as much since my frame is not being z'd. Nice work on the whole car by the way.

 

[Zandoz]

You might find this a good read.

Golden ratio - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Good info. Brings back memories of the study of the Parthenon...and triggers a mathematical brain overload. LOL

 

[gif]

Battery mount installed.
Also installed a master disconnect behind the passenger seat.

 

[rubicon]

Looks nice. What brand disconnect is that? I never seen that one when I was looking for mine. Keep the pics coming.

 

[gif]

e-Series On Off Battery Switch - Blue Sea Systems

 

[gif]

Master brake cylinder and pedal install.

Master is a corvette with a 1" bore. I built the pedal with a 6:1 ratio.
The pedal assembly is removable.

 

[gif]

 

[Zandoz]

A lot of similarities to what I hope to be doing on my brake configuration. How heavy material did you use for the master cylinder bracket? What diameter is the rod between the pedal and the master? I'll be having a booster to contend with, which will require an "S" bend rod between the pedal and master.

 

[gif]

A lot of similarities to what I hope to be doing on my brake configuration. How heavy material did you use for the master cylinder bracket? What diameter is the rod between the pedal and the master? I'll be having a booster to contend with, which will require an "S" bend rod between the pedal and master.

Bracket is 1/4" with a 1/4 X 3/8 brace. Rod is 3/8"

 

[Zandoz]

Bracket is 1/4" with a 1/4 X 3/8 brace. Rod is 3/8"

I wonder if 3/8" rod would be heavy enough, with a "S" bend forming a 3-1/4" offset?

 

[old round fart]

Add gussets at bends, or put the offset at the pedal pivot mount.