1926 Model T RPU

[Zandoz]

Add gussets at bends, or put the offset at the pedal pivot mount.

I'd thought of gusseting the pedal end, but the booster end may be a problem. The "S" bend curves up and over the transmission crossmember. Allowing for the rod travel, there is not much room left for a meaningful gusset.

The pedal is an off-the-shelf Speedway unit that already has 1-3/4" offset built in. It would be perfect on it's own if I did not need a booster.

 

[chevymike]

Nice setup but might I make a suggestion. I would add a brace to the outer pivot of the brake pedal. Having it in a "single shear" mount will likely give you issues when you actually start driving. It put all the loading on the point right at the frame, which will likely bend or fail at some point. I would add a bracket similar to how you did the MC mount, to capture the inner pivot, making it a double shear. Doing that will make this pivot very strong and likely to never fail.

 

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Nice setup but might I make a suggestion. I would add a brace to the outer pivot of the brake pedal. Having it in a "single shear" mount will likely give you issues when you actually start driving. It put all the loading on the point right at the frame, which will likely bend or fail at some point. I would add a bracket similar to how you did the MC mount, to capture the inner pivot, making it a double shear. Doing that will make this pivot very strong and likely to never fail.

Thanks.

What you don't see in the pics is the base of the pedal mount. The top of the frame rail in that location was replaced with 3/8 steel that is the pocket (or keyway) for the pivot sleeve to set in. It is also drilled and tapped for the mounting bolts of the pedal assembly. The pedal assembly pivot sleeve is .25" wall DOM and the through bolt is 5/8" grade 8 with a shear strength of 90,000 PSI. The pivot point of the pedal is at the closest point to the frame which has the least leverage against bending. Also what you also don't see are the adjustable stops for the pedal stroke to prevent damage to the MC.

 

[2old2fast]

Your "90K psi gr 8 bolt has been welded , it is now no stronger than it's base [pre-heat treated] grade. It is no longer Gr-8
dave

 

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Your "90K psi gr 8 bolt has been welded , it is now no stronger than it's base [pre-heat treated] grade. It is no longer Gr-8
dave

who said anything about welding the bolt. That is a no no...

 

[2old2fast]

Sorry , didn't look close enough
dave

 

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I want a real truck bed but could not find one. And if I did find one I was going to cut it all up anyway. So I decided to build my own.

 

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I am using 16 gauge sheet steel, a bead roller and a 50" brake.

This is the first side panel.

 

[choppedtop]

Good looking panel you made. A bead roller would be nice to have every now and then.

 

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to get the lower edge to roll under i found a piece of tube with the OD i wanted and then split it with the plasma cutter.

 

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next i made the bed floor

 

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[EX JUNK]

WOW, I'm really impressed and looking forward to future installments.
I see that you are located in Hemlock. Where might that be located?
Jim

 

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Upstate NY. Finger lakes area.

 

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Bed will be 36" long X 41" wide X 5" deep

 

[RPM]

Looks really good.

 

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Looks really good.

thanks

 

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i needed to make the rear vertical supports follow the lower rolled edge.
So i split some 16 gauge 2x2 box and used a cut off wheel to form the radius. Then I built up the base with weld and then ground it smooth with a flap disc.

 

[rbsWELDER]

Nice work!!!

 

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tailgate is fixed. no reason to have it flip down. But I did made fake hinges to give it the correct look.