1926 Model T RPU

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front split wishbone using 7/8 heims

found them on eBay, i think they cleaned up nice.

 

[rubicon]

Nice work. I like watching you guys make your own parts. It gives me the itch to try something, anything, even if it is a small project. Keep up with the pictures. I need more incentive to get off my lazy A$$.

 

[Spanky]

Are you sure you'll need that many leaves in the front spring?

 

[gif]

Nice work. I like watching you guys make your own parts. It gives me the itch to try something, anything, even if it is a small project. Keep up with the pictures. I need more incentive to get off my lazy A$$.

Thanks, I wanted all suspension points to be double shear.

 

[gif]

Are you sure you'll need that many leaves in the front spring?

nope.

i plan to "tune" the suspension once i have some seat time and a feel of the road manners...

 

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rear suspension plan is a 4 link disguised as a split wishbone

made up a leaf spring mount. i fabbed all the parts from 3/8 plate

 

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lower and upper links are 1-3/8" X .188 wall and use 7/8 heims.

 

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[one finger john]

At this point I believe there might be a conflict of motion in the rear suspension movement. Have you moved the rear axle thru it's range of motion to see if there will be any binding or stoppages? I understand that the rear spring acts as a support piece, but the attachment points of the upper & lower bars, the length of the lower bars vs the upper bars, just don't seem to work together. I would think that an attachment point at the bottom of the kickup with the bar brought in to run parallel with the frame would be a better smoother acting set up.
Love the work you are doing, just don't understand the theory behind it.

John

 

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Lot of info on the net.

But here is a link to an easy explanation.
Tuning 4 Link Rear Suspensions for the Drag Strip

And here are the calculations for my setup. I targeted a neutral setting.

 

[EX JUNK]

Lot of info on the net.

But here is a link to an easy explanation.
Tuning 4 Link Rear Suspensions for the Drag Strip

And here are the calculations for my setup. I targeted a neutral setting.

What you are depicting is basically what I'm running on my car. It is an adjustable four link with a wishbone locator.



Jim

 

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Mmm...

Mine is a double triangulated 4 link.

 

[rubicon]

What you guys are doing is way above my pay grade. What is the advantage of the 4 bar set up?

 

[RPM]

What you guys are doing is way above my pay grade. What is the advantage of the 4 bar set up?

A lot better traction and handling.

 

[rubicon]

Thanks.

 

[gif]

The spring only has to support the weight of the car.
Shocks dampen the large movements.
The links locate the axle and prevent axle rotation under hard acceleration. The wheels will stay firmly on the ground and not hop. The pinion will stay pointed at the transmission and provide good driveshaft angles.

 

[Zandoz]

Lot of info on the net.

But here is a link to an easy explanation.
Tuning 4 Link Rear Suspensions for the Drag Strip

And here are the calculations for my setup. I targeted a neutral setting.

A couple years back I spent a LOT of time on that and my CAD program coming up with all kinds of suspensions for my build. In the end I'm using the triangulated 4 link arrangement that my Ford 8.8" rear end came with. The only bracketry that will need to be welded to the axle is the lower air bag brackets.

 

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Ford 1928 Model A grill shell.
to get the look i wanted i had to chop 4" of height out of it and notch it to fit inside the frame rails.
I also added some 1/4 rod to give it that hot rod look
a 1965 ford falcon 3 row radiator for a V8 just fits inside.

 

[choppinczech]

I like this build.