350 start up

[T-Bucket Bob]

Yup, Iam pump!

What I to do is use my oil pan, water pump, water pump pulley. There chrome, but what I like to do is paint them gloss black to go with my color scheme. Any ideas when painting chrome?

Thanks

 

[Neshkoro]

I've never painted chrome but, I would think you would have to scuff it up a bit to make the paint stick.

 

[2old2fast]

Best is to sandblast , there are a number of metal etchs and self etching primers , pick your poison

 

[fletcherson]

Yup, Iam pump!

What I to do is use my oil pan, water pump, water pump pulley. There chrome, but what I like to do is paint them gloss black to go with my color scheme. Any ideas when painting chrome?

Thanks

Media blast them and use metal etching primer. Paint doesn’t stick to chrome very well, it needs “teeth”. Maybe sell them and buy painted new parts. If the chrome is good, should be an easy sale.

 

[T-Bucket Bob]

Here is the engine so far.

 

[T-Bucket Bob]

Hey guys,

Is it worth putting a new hei distributor in my new rebuild engine or use the old one. The old one works.

 

[Island Girl]

Hey guys,

Is it worth putting a new hei distributor in my new rebuild engine or use the old one. The old one works.

If it's just a stock rebuild, you won't notice any difference, so why spend the money unless you like the looks of new goodies, or want to get away from some of the maintenance.

There are reasons to change, but performance isn't going to be one of them on a relatively stock motor

HEI was designed so make sure that the plug would fire under more adverse/poor maintenance conditions than conventional ignitions . . . it was thought to lower emissions and help the industry meet standards.

In a fresh rebuild with new valve seals, rings, and properly gapped new plugs, the conventional ignition will work fine.

It really comes down to budget versus cost, and aesthetics . . .

If you decide to make the change, be sure to buy a quality brand, not one of those $50 disasters from Amazon.

 

[2old2fast]

I suppose it depends how you define performance , HEI will start easier
, Use less fuel, the plugs will last longer , you won't have points to mess with . I think that's better performance , might even be a smidge quicker in the 1/4......

 

[Island Girl]

I think it was pretty clear that I used performance as it refers to quickness, response, acceleration, but made mention of getting away from the maintenance which would include the easier starting, no points to mess with, and less frequent plug replacement as an actual reason to change..

I think we've made the same overall assessment.

Upon rereading the thread . . The old dist was also HEI, so it's not a points to HEI comparison.

Just throw a new coil in it and go as long as the bearings feel OK.

 

[2old2fast]

I think it was pretty clear that I used performance as it refers to quickness, response, acceleration, but made mention of getting away from the maintenance which would include the easier starting, no points to mess with, and less frequent plug replacement as an actual reason to change..

I think we've made the same overall assessment.

Upon rereading the thread . . The old dist was also HEI, so it's not a points to HEI comparison.

Just throw a new coil in it and go as long as the bearings feel OK.

Had it been clear ,I would not have responded as I did , excuse my lack of translation skills ..

 

[HenrysT]

The question isn't exactly clear as to what kind of dizzy that T-Bucket Bob has presently. I ASSUMEd that it was a big ugly stock one too (even thought Island Girl didn't say it, I KNEW what she was thinking). Where is that "smiley" emoji?

 

[HenrysT]

Hey guys,

I want to start my engine that's been sitting for awhile. I change the plugs, rebuilt carburetor, got a new rotor for HEI distributor , but yet it cranks, pops a little and that's it. What needs to be done to get it running? Do HEI's go bad a or is there something I missing to I needs to do.

Thanks, T- Bucket Bob

First paragraph in this post...

 

[T-Bucket Bob]

It's my stock hei distributor that was with the engine. I have a small upgrade with the cam. Is this gonna make a difference with the distributor?

 

[Indycars]

There is a possibility that the distributor gear is not compatible with the new cam gear. There are
several possible options, so I would ask the manufacture of the cam if it will work with a stock
HEI distributor.

While the distributor is out, it would only take 30 seconds to check the end play and the radial
clearance. Either one would make your ignition timing unstable.

Properly Matching Your Camshaft and Distributor Gear - Engine Builder Magazine

 

[Guy]

Hey guys,

I got the distributor back in, so I decided to do compression check. I got 120 psi on all cylinders, but one, which was 60 psi dry and 70 psi wet. Any ideas what's going on or can I still try firing it up?

Thanks

adding oil brings that compression up needs rings most likely

 

[choppedtop]

Doubt that starting it will cause any damage. If a valve was stuck open, you probably would not have any compression at all on that cylinder. Running may loosen up stuck rings if that is the problem.

 

[2old2fast]

Cyl that low could be burned valve , bent valve , piston/ring damage , or less likely ,cracked head or blown head gasket . I'd find the problem before firing it ....

 

[fletcherson]

I wouldn't start it till fuguring out why. Could be a number of things, squirting oil in the cylinder will tell if it's dry or stuck rings. Pulling the valve cover will tell the tale on valve train motion. You know it's going to run bad as is. If you do start it, look for bubbles in the radiator for clues to head gasket or crack issue.

 

[Indycars]

Unless the budget just won't handle the expense right now, I think it's time for rings,
bearing, timing chain, gaskets and a valve job.

 

[2old2fast]

Reason not to start it is ,if you ate the top of a piston , the block may still be salvageable , if you run it like it is ,all bets are off ...